fuel tank mod questions
fuel tank mod questions
i did the fuel tank mod on both trucks. on our '05 when the tank gets to approx. half the truck stalls after a 10-15 mile drive on the freeway at approx 70 mph and it will stall at the end of the offramp. it turns over but won't restart for about a minute. when i did the tank i plugged both 1/8 inch vents on the top of the tank. did it the same way on both trucks. one time this happened out at barstow during a recent race. when i pulled in to top off the tank air either escaped or got sucked into the tank when i popped off the cap. aside from this stall at half tank the truck runs great. the problem happens at the same spot on the fuel gauge, i made a small mark just to make sure.
i removed the caps on the 1/8 inch vents i put on and it hasn't stalled yet. i've only run one tank through since the "fix". has anybody else heard or experienced this???
i removed the caps on the 1/8 inch vents i put on and it hasn't stalled yet. i've only run one tank through since the "fix". has anybody else heard or experienced this???
Where did you run the hose when you relocated the main vent? Also, you do not want the main hose to have a drop in it, it will get fuel in it and plug it up, sort of like a "P" trap on a sink.
On the two small vents, I ran a hose between the two with a "T" in the middle and then a hose off the "T" up the filler hose and through a hole, I drilled in the plate that holds the filler behind the fuel door.
On the two small vents, I ran a hose between the two with a "T" in the middle and then a hose off the "T" up the filler hose and through a hole, I drilled in the plate that holds the filler behind the fuel door.
Your right.
The fuel tank can vent through the fuel cap but it takes alot of vacum to make it operate.
Do not block off the two 1/8 vents on top of the fuel tank. Air needs to enter to make up for the fuel your using. I just put a regular see through fuel filter on the ends of the little hoses coming off these vents. Make sure the intake is pointed down so you don't plug the filters with debrie.
The fuel tank can vent through the fuel cap but it takes alot of vacum to make it operate.
Do not block off the two 1/8 vents on top of the fuel tank. Air needs to enter to make up for the fuel your using. I just put a regular see through fuel filter on the ends of the little hoses coming off these vents. Make sure the intake is pointed down so you don't plug the filters with debrie.
i did the fuel tank mod on both trucks. on our '05 when the tank gets to approx. half the truck stalls after a 10-15 mile drive on the freeway at approx 70 mph and it will stall at the end of the offramp. it turns over but won't restart for about a minute. when i did the tank i plugged both 1/8 inch vents on the top of the tank. did it the same way on both trucks. one time this happened out at barstow during a recent race. when i pulled in to top off the tank air either escaped or got sucked into the tank when i popped off the cap. aside from this stall at half tank the truck runs great. the problem happens at the same spot on the fuel gauge, i made a small mark just to make sure.
i removed the caps on the 1/8 inch vents i put on and it hasn't stalled yet. i've only run one tank through since the "fix". has anybody else heard or experienced this???
i removed the caps on the 1/8 inch vents i put on and it hasn't stalled yet. i've only run one tank through since the "fix". has anybody else heard or experienced this???
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off & on long time reader newbie here...
I just did this mod to my truck... had no problems with it in the 3500 miles since the install... is it possible your vent tube has a kink in it?
pics can be found here http://s41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...herma/VentKit/
DIY Fuel Tank Vent relocation
As some of you know your tank holds more fuel than you can put in. the space that goes unfilled is there for heat expansion.
If your like me and would rather have fuel in that area while traveling/commuting or whatever, you need to relocate the vent for the tank.
Vehicle: 2005 CTD, 34 gallon tank
Cost: Under $20 bux
Parts:
Dorman HELP! p/n 02254 bypass caps, used to seal off the old vent elbow
Dorman HELP! p/n 42323 pvc grommet, what I used as my seal for the vent
Napa p/n 60-1483 3/4" heater hose elbow (any 3/4" elbow will do IMO)
3/4" fuel line, approx 18~24" (optional, you could probably reuse the old hose)
Drive your truck until your tank is about as empty as you can get it. Makes dropping the tank much easier.
Spray the tank strap nuts with liquid wrench (or eqivalant) to ease nut removal
Loosen both tank strap nuts so they are near the end of the bolt. this will allow you to gain access to the top of the tank to remove the fuel line/return line & the electrical connector
The electrical connector has a red tab that needs to be pushed towards the rear of the truck so that you will be able to push the release mechanism down to remove the connector.
Remove this connector and both fuel lines. The fuel lines on my truck were a squeeze tab type of lock... squeeze both tabs and push the fuel line off. Consult your shop manual to see the different types of connectors. IIRC there were 3 maybe 4 of them.
Here are some good shots of them.
Remove the fill tube, loosen the 2 clamps on the fill tube & vent tube hoses and slide them off.
Remove the 3 screws holding in the filler tube assembly to the bed of the truck and remove it.
At this point, you should have the hoses disconnected, electrical disconnected and both fuel lines disconnected.
Your ready to drop the tank. Finish removing the tank strap nuts and begin to lower the tank. If you have alot of fuel in it I recommend either draining it or use a floor jack & 2x4's to balance the load.
you might have to remove the tank straps to make it easier to drop the tank.
Pull the tank out from underneath the truck into an open area.
If your going to remove the fuel tank module you will most likely need a tool to get past the tabs. I tried for the heck of it with a screwdriver & hammer & couldnt get it to budge.
Decide where you want to relocate the vent elbow to. I picked the highest spot next to the fill tube.
Use a 1 1/4" hole saw to drill into the tank. I recommend taking it slow and when you think your hole saw is about to go thru the tank, stop and use a screw driver to pull out the plug so it doesnt drop into the tank.
Once you have your hole drilled, press in the grommet. should fit perfect (mine did)
Optional, I cut my 3/4" elbow down to the last lip so I wouldnt have much of it sticking into the tank. Now that I'm writing this, I think it would be better to leave it on so there would be a small amount of room in the tank for heat expansion. Oops, too late now lol
Install the new or old vent hose onto the elbow and tighten the clamp.
Install the elbow into the grommet. should be a nice fit as the grommet is smaller than the elbow.
Now your ready to re-install the tank.
RE-install the tank straps
Move the tank back under the truck and lift it up into position. Reinstall the tank strap nuts and leave them loose. make sure the hoses are moved into the right position so when you tighten the tank straps, they will go back up towards the fill tube.
Reconnect the 2 fuel lines & electrical connector.
Tighten the tank strap nuts to secure the tank
Reconnect both hoses back up to the fill tube,
Reinstall the fill tube back onto the body with the 3 screws previously removed.
Tighten remaining clamps on the fill tube.
Done.
I just did this mod to my truck... had no problems with it in the 3500 miles since the install... is it possible your vent tube has a kink in it?
pics can be found here http://s41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...herma/VentKit/
DIY Fuel Tank Vent relocation
As some of you know your tank holds more fuel than you can put in. the space that goes unfilled is there for heat expansion.
If your like me and would rather have fuel in that area while traveling/commuting or whatever, you need to relocate the vent for the tank.
Vehicle: 2005 CTD, 34 gallon tank
Cost: Under $20 bux
Parts:
Dorman HELP! p/n 02254 bypass caps, used to seal off the old vent elbow
Dorman HELP! p/n 42323 pvc grommet, what I used as my seal for the vent
Napa p/n 60-1483 3/4" heater hose elbow (any 3/4" elbow will do IMO)
3/4" fuel line, approx 18~24" (optional, you could probably reuse the old hose)
Drive your truck until your tank is about as empty as you can get it. Makes dropping the tank much easier.
Spray the tank strap nuts with liquid wrench (or eqivalant) to ease nut removal
Loosen both tank strap nuts so they are near the end of the bolt. this will allow you to gain access to the top of the tank to remove the fuel line/return line & the electrical connector
The electrical connector has a red tab that needs to be pushed towards the rear of the truck so that you will be able to push the release mechanism down to remove the connector.
Remove this connector and both fuel lines. The fuel lines on my truck were a squeeze tab type of lock... squeeze both tabs and push the fuel line off. Consult your shop manual to see the different types of connectors. IIRC there were 3 maybe 4 of them.
Here are some good shots of them.
Remove the fill tube, loosen the 2 clamps on the fill tube & vent tube hoses and slide them off.
Remove the 3 screws holding in the filler tube assembly to the bed of the truck and remove it.
At this point, you should have the hoses disconnected, electrical disconnected and both fuel lines disconnected.
Your ready to drop the tank. Finish removing the tank strap nuts and begin to lower the tank. If you have alot of fuel in it I recommend either draining it or use a floor jack & 2x4's to balance the load.
you might have to remove the tank straps to make it easier to drop the tank.
Pull the tank out from underneath the truck into an open area.
If your going to remove the fuel tank module you will most likely need a tool to get past the tabs. I tried for the heck of it with a screwdriver & hammer & couldnt get it to budge.
Decide where you want to relocate the vent elbow to. I picked the highest spot next to the fill tube.
Use a 1 1/4" hole saw to drill into the tank. I recommend taking it slow and when you think your hole saw is about to go thru the tank, stop and use a screw driver to pull out the plug so it doesnt drop into the tank.
Once you have your hole drilled, press in the grommet. should fit perfect (mine did)
Optional, I cut my 3/4" elbow down to the last lip so I wouldnt have much of it sticking into the tank. Now that I'm writing this, I think it would be better to leave it on so there would be a small amount of room in the tank for heat expansion. Oops, too late now lol
Install the new or old vent hose onto the elbow and tighten the clamp.
Install the elbow into the grommet. should be a nice fit as the grommet is smaller than the elbow.
Now your ready to re-install the tank.
RE-install the tank straps
Move the tank back under the truck and lift it up into position. Reinstall the tank strap nuts and leave them loose. make sure the hoses are moved into the right position so when you tighten the tank straps, they will go back up towards the fill tube.
Reconnect the 2 fuel lines & electrical connector.
Tighten the tank strap nuts to secure the tank
Reconnect both hoses back up to the fill tube,
Reinstall the fill tube back onto the body with the 3 screws previously removed.
Tighten remaining clamps on the fill tube.
Done.
Do our trucks have a problem? my truck has never stalled on me. My truck is a 2004.5 dodge ram 2500 quad cab. How can I tell if its been modded or do i need this mod? Any1 ever notice when filling tank up at fuel station a guy can sit there for 20 minutes topping off tank. it never seems to get full?
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