I need to replace front drive shaft u-joints, but can't get the shaft off. I have 6 of the 8 bolts out, but have stripped the Torx head on 2. From searching, I'm not the only one who's done this, but how do you extract these stripped bolts? There's no room for a drill (that I can see). Maybe weld a nut on? Any help is appreciated... I don't want to let this beat me!

 

No one has had to remove a stripped Torx bolt from the front driveshaft?

 

I wish I had an answer for you... what did you read on the search about someone else in this situation?

 

If you have access to a welder, I would weld a good hex head bolt right to the torx head.
I have done this a few times in different situations with great success.

 

will an easy out work in that stripped torx bit recess? if so, i would use that in conjunction with a little heat from a propane torch.
when i removed my front drive shaft, i noticed that a thread locking compound was used from the factory simular to what yamaha uses on the bolts that hold the brake rotors to the wheel hubs. yamaha suggests heating the hub around the bolts slightly to soften the compound for easier removal of the rotor bolts.

maybe a small vise-grip locking pliers might help. good luck

 

This is your best option right here.

Real solid advice.

 

That's what I'm thinking too, just checking if anyone else had a better idea. It's how we extract broken bolts on the mine equipment. I thought of an EZ out, but you just need too much torque to get past the red loctite (even with heat). At least by welding the nut on, it will also put heat into it. It's not a real nice place to weld, unless you can put it on a hoist, so I gues it will go to a shop for the removal. Metric hex bolts will be going back in, with BLUE locitie (like the other end had...) Thanks for the opinions.

 

First off forget about drilling out a grade 8 bolt and using a easy out. Guaranteed to fubar it up. I did strip one torx head on the front drive shaft bolts. Cost me $7.95 for one friggin bolt from the dealer ( I'm a sucker). In fact it was the first one I tried when i went to replace the u-joints. What i did was go the next size up with a 1/2" drive socket torx bit and hammer it in so it got a bite. Then I used the plumbers propane torch and heated the bolt and flange. You can actually get the torch on the back side and heat the bolt tip that protrudes from the flange. Careful to not over heat and burn the front diff seal! Need about 500F for 4-5 minutes for redloctite( forget about green loctite)Wrap a wet rag around the diff seal area. I hate red loctite all the u-joints flanges, brake caliper adapter mounts , hub bearing bolts etc on my truck came from the factory with that garbage. I use nickel based anti-seize on everything upon re-assembly after wire wheel to clean the crap off, with correct torque specs and torque wrench have never had a bolt come loose. I have welded a nut or socket head bolt on a stripped fastener at work many times but these bolts are small diameter and shouldn't need that performance to come out. Good luck dude...

 

is there a special Torx bit? I cant seem to get a good bite on the bolt and wonder if my Torx bit is too long?

 

The shortest one you can find will give you the best leverage.

 

Best thing, weld a nut to the bolt. Not enough room to get in and drill it, then use an easy out.

 

If I remember correctly a longer bit is the way to go. Short bits leave your rachet too close and on an angle. I think I used a 4 or 6 inch bit. And also had to move the shaft around to find the best shot at removal... at 4o'clock if I remember correctly.

 

You ever use a impact screwdriver,, I have a Craftsman and it's nice for the immediate "shock" plus your driving the bit deeper into head of the "whatever"http://http://www.sears.com/craftsma...p-00947641000P, puts a lot of torque on it,,, if you have room to swing a smaller ballpen,, plus you'd have to buy the extra bit for the torx

 

Your link is broke. Here is a working link

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...3&blockType=G3

 

I remember reading that Ford has a replacement bolt that is for the driveline and is a hex head and is a good replacment for the torx. I do not know the part number, but a good parts man should be able to find the right bolt for you.