Here's one of my posts concerning the issue:
Eureka!!!!! I went to a friends shop a bit ago and dropped the front shaft to try and finally locate this "hole". I had tried all manner of lights, mirrors, and eyeballs and if there was a fitting in there, Ho Chi Minh did the camouflage work! This has been gnawing at me since I got this truck in November. The Cardan joint was clean as a whistle with no signs of any grease slinging on the surrounding frame or other parts. So, either the wrench that did the service was **** about being clean, the fitting was pressure washed after each service, or the tech couldn't find the fitting either! Once I figured out the "secret" to removing the front shaft, it was a 10 minute in and out procedure. The front T40 Torx are in with Red Loc Tite and protrude thru the front flange. The way I found to get these little buggers out was spray them down with Rost Off and then rotate the front shaft so the bolt to be removed is in the 7 O'clock position. I used a 1/2" impact and a 6" extension with a Snap On 3/8 T40 socket. Don't try and "slam" them out, make sure the T is seated as square as possible (I tapped the 6" extension to seat the T40 in the bolt) then feather the impact trigger. If you don't really lean into it, you will strip the head. Don't forget to index the front and rear flanges and the shaft. You want the drive shaft going back in in the same relative position as it came out. The rear bolts are 16mm and can be removed by indexing the bolt to be removed to the 1 O'clock position. They are in with Blue Loc Tite.............go figure? After I got the shaft out, I got in with a pic and some rags. Well, there is was with a light coating of dirt and rust, dry as a bone! I'm going with the joint was never greased! It took somewhere between 6 and 10 strokes of the grease gun to get grease to emerge.................and it still wasn't on the rubber seal of the joint so we carefully lifted the seal up and used a fine needle point to get some grease on the ball portion of the assembly.

I swear the truck rides smoother and I feel a whole heaping passel better! One more item checked off the list

 

I have found with these bolts that are Loctited in, get a propane torch, and it just takes a tiny amount of heat to the end of the bolt to soften up the Loctite, then they usually come right out. I think the tightest bolts were always on the Ford trucks with the flange on the rear of the rear shaft. They had a 12 point bolt head, and I bent or broke several 12mm wrenches before I figured out to use a tiny bit of heat to melt the threadlocker. Never a problem after that.

 

I too stripped a couple of the torx head bolts, should have heated them first, live and learn. With one front wheel jacked up, I spun the driveshaft to make the bolt heads as accessible as possible and easily drilled them out with a 3/8 inch or so drill bit. You have to pay attention so you don't drill into the shaft's flange at all. I got them really close and used a little chisel to sheer off what remained. Once the bolt heads were gone, I lightly tapped and pryed the shaft off of the bolts and away from pinion flange. I set the wheel back on the ground to "lock" the pinion, then I heated up the bolts and used a vice grip to unscrew them. Replaced them with matching thread/length grade 10.9 metric bolts from the hardware store with a standard 12mm head. I got lucky that the bolts they had were low profile heads with a built in flange washer so they won't interfere with the u-joint at all. Used blue loctite going back in. 10,000 miles, and a full winter of snowplowing later they are fine.