Ok my truck has been burnin about 1 quart every 1k. I guess thats average for them. It wasnt this bad when I was running Rotelaa syn. So I am going back to it. So I checked oil and added some. And forgot to put back on oil cap. Now as far as I can tell I went about 2-4 weeks like this. I didnt have tons of oil all over hood or motor. No puddles anywhere. But I went through a about 6 quarts of oil in a month and only about 1500 miles or so. II checked it before a snow storm and threw a gallon in it. stupidly didnt re check it (snowy and cold). I never lost pressure always high and still is. Advanced auto didnt have a cap in stock so I jammed a rag in there. Check under hood during storm and noticed it was out. got a new cap and checked oil again down 6 quarts again. I pulled off my air cleaner and looked down tube. very lil fine dust in tube. inside of dirty air filter is still some what clean. So air filter didnt fail that bad. ordered a new one the other day should be here soon. Could the oil cap not being on cause me to burn tons of oil? lthere is some oil in engine bay. Or could that pad on hood be holding tons of oil. It didnt look wet or oily.

 

I'm not sure how many miles you have on your vehicle but 1 quart every 1K seems a bit excessive. I run extended synthetic oil changes with analysis every 5000 miles and after about 12k only use about 1 quart. You might have an seal on your turbo leaking. Remove the hose from the intercooler to the turbo and see if there is any oil there which would indicate a turbo intake side seal failure. Remove the exhaust from the turbo and see if you have any oil or an excessive amount of carbon build up in the exhaust down pipe indicating a turbo exhaust seal failure.

With the missing oil cap probably most of your oil from the crankcase blew out from the missing oil fill cap hole. It probably flowed via a path under the plastic cover in top of the head and down the back of the engine block onto the transmission then down the frame rails of the chassis. Take a look under your truck under the driving cab and see it there is a coating of oil there.

Missing 6 quarts of oil is not good but probably not castrosphic as long as you are not operating under a heavy load. The engines hold about 13 quarts of oil with the filter. Keep in mind that the oil pressure you see on the instrument panel is a calculated oil pressure from the ECM and not an actual pressure. There is a oil pressure switch similiar to ones used on vehicles without a gauge that has the oil pressure warning light that turned on the light when the oil pressure dropped to a preset level. Hence when the oil pressure switch activates you gauge reads 0 psi, as when the key is on but the engine not running. Otherwise the ECM is calculating the oil pressure based on engine "parameters".

Hope everything turns out OK.

L8r,...........dogger

 

Way too much oil usage. I'm at 120k and still don't have to add between 7000 mile plus changes. Sorry about the brain cramp but it happens. Just wait until you start to get older.

 

Ditto to above...Whoa thats a lot of oil to be burning. I change mine every 7-8k and never have to add oil in between. I use Rotella btw.

 

Why did you change oil brand? I'll tell ya what happened to me. A good friend of mine gave me 3- 5 gallon pails of 15w-40 diesel oil (not sure of the brand) changed the oil in my big rig with it, 2 thousand miles in and it was a gallon low. I was a little concerned cause I always got to the 10k mile change interval without adding any. at the 10k it was usually down a gallon. Long story short, I went back to Rotella and oil consumption was back the way it was! If you changed oil with a cheaper brand it could be the oil. try running Rotella again and add a half gal. of Lucas oil stabilizer in it and see if it help's. Just my 2cents!

 

Yeah i was running the rotella T syn 5-40. Last oil change went to Jiffy lube(like an idiot) They claim they use Rottella. But I noticed the guy came out of back room with a open bottle of rottella. So more than like he gave me the cheapest stuff. I am going to back to the Rottella syn on Monday. And no I never doing anything heavy. Just plowing and I put a gallon in before plow. So at worst it was down 2 quarts I think. But after this oil change it seemed to get real bad. As for the 1 quart 1k avg. Ehh maybe not that bad. More like 1 quart every 2k if I was to guess. Plus I usually check it after its been running. So I know its suppose to read a lil low

 

case from chrysler

Case Number 999926737
Vehicle Issue Suspected excessive engine oil consumption, burns oil, uses oil, with no leaks found.;Applies to most Chrysler Corporation models unless otherwise specified. Excessive engine oil usage or consumption suspected.
System or Component Abnormal Behavior / Function,Consumption / Oil Level Low But No Leak;Customer Concern (No DTCs);Engine Oil
Recommendation NORMAL OIL CONSUMPTION: Below are industry standards for normal engine oil consumption: Mileage below 50,000: Normal oil consumption is one quart for each 1,000 miles driven. Mileage above 50,000: Normal oil consumption is one quart for each 750 miles driven. TEST TO DETERMINE ENGINE OIL CONSUMPTION: Operate engine to normal operating temperature. Fill engine oil precisely to FULL mark on dip stick gauge. Use paint pen to mark the engine oil drain plug to prevent tampering. Check engine oil level after 1.000 miles driven. Refer to normal engine oil consumption listed above. POSSIBLE CAUSES FOR EXCESSIVE ENGINE OIL CONSUMPTION: PCV OR CCV SYSTEM: Check the crankcase ventilation system for proper operation. Oil may accumulate in the throttle body or intake manifold. Also, rocker arm lubrication oil flow returns to oil pan through drainback holes in top of cylinder head. Plugged or restricted oil drainback holes may contribute to excessive oil in crankcase ventilation system. SPARK PLUGS: Examine all spark plugs to identify the affected cylinder(s). Spark plug on the affected cylinder(s) will usually be fouled or wet with engine oil. VALVE GUIDES AND VALVE STEM SEALS: Inspect valve guides on the affected cylinder(s). Replace valve stem seals on the affected cylinder(s). PISTON RINGS: Check piston rings on the affected cylinder(s). Piston rings may be too tight / worn / broken / carbon build up in the oil control ring. CYLINDER WALL: Examine the cylinder wall on the affected cylinder(s). Cylinder wall may be severely scuffed. Perform hone procedure on the cylinder wall or replace cylinder block / short engine assembly as required.

Modification Date 09/28/09 1:56 PM



procedure to check oil

Case Number K59437538
Vehicle Issue What Procedure Is Used To Check The Oil Level In A Cummins Diesel Engine?
System or Component Consumption / Oil Level Low But No Leak,Oil Level Too High;Customer Concern (No DTCs),Pre-Delivery,Owners Manual,Specification - Capacity / Torque / Dimension;Engine Oil
Recommendation Cummins has taken extreme counter measures to ensure their engines are FULL of engine oil at delivery to our Assembly Plants. The dealer PDI process includes checking the oil level on a hot engine. A common dealer practice is to check the oil level on a cold engine just after driving into the prep bay. This does not allow adequate time for oil to drain internally in the engine back to the oil pan. The short run time on a cold engine may take up to 60 minutes for oil to drain back to the oil pan, depending on the ambient temperature. When the engine is hot the oil level should be checked after a minimum of 10 minutes after the engine is shut off. The 2 quart dipstick markings for the SAFE oil level is the tolerance for a cold engine that has NOT been started and a hot engine that is allowed to drain back a minimum of 10 minutes. If the oil is between the two marks it is OK and don't add oil. Only add oil to the engine IF the oil level is below the ADD mark. When a dealer adds oil at PDI they may be actually overfilling engine. This can have a detrimental effect causing aeration in the oil flow and lack of lubrication. Cummins has installed engine assembly X-ray equipment to ensure the oil level is correct before the engine is shipped. There is NO reason for dealers to be adding oil at PDI. (Except: the engine that has external oil leak).

Modification Date 12/14/04 11:13 AM

 

Well its going either tomorrow or Monday for a oil change and I will throw in some Lucas stabllizer and keep an eye on it. what if they put 10-40 in my truck. Or some other weight. Would tha blow by fast?

I pulled off the intake tube. Like I said before. A very fine dust on the tube walls. Turbo wheel was tight and no oil at all. It looked clean. Hopefully going back to 5-40syn solves this.

Oh and I noticed it doesnt start as easy. But I am really nit picking here. Takes about 1.5 seconds to start instead of .5. But I noticed it

 

This is just my opinion, I would run 1 gallon of Lucas with 15w-40 Rotella. make sure you have a new air filter, that motor has to breath, if it can't get air from the filter it will pull it from somewhere else. You said the filter was dirty & you ordered one---did you get it in? after this keep a close watch on the oil level. Hope it works out!

 

Air filter will be here in morning and just bought my 3 gallons of Rottellla Syn 5-40 and a Bosh extend filter. and a some Lucas syn stabilizer

 

If I'm burning a quart every 750 I'm looking at a rebuild.

 

I would trade mine in before I put down 5k for a rebuild. There are some sweet deals on pick ups right now. I would not buy another cummins on a trade in though. Probably just drop down to F150

 

Why do these new trucks burn so much oil. My 98 did not use any oil until my front seal started leaking. The dipstick would stay the same during the whole OCI.

 

150,000 miles on my truck. I do 25,000 mile change intervals and don't add any oil in the 25,000 miles.

 

My truck does not go through a single drop of oil in between oil changes. I go 20k with a filter change and oil sample at 10k. I run a group 2 oil.