I read the tech artical showing how to change the filter and its looks easy and strait forward my two ?'s before i attempt and hopefully dont screw up are

1. When draining the fuel filter bowl will it eventualy stop or will it continue to drain all fuel left in the lines between the fuel tank and filter?

2 My second ? and my biggest concern is the bump start or priming of the system before start up. What is bump starting is it cycling the key up a few times ( turning on the accesorys ) or attempting to start the truck but dont allow it to fire up like cranking and then turning off?

Any feedback would be great i just dont want ot pay the dealer $95 and dont want to get air in the lines or strand myself.

-Chris

 

All I have ever done on mine is unscrew the lid, pull the filter out, replace it, put the lid back on, and start it up to check for leaks. Never a problem.

This procedure you're referring to sounds awfully complicated to me, but maybe I should read my owner's manual. On second though, nah, I'll just keep it simple and keep doing what I've been doing all these years.

 

Your correct, I got tired of the dealer 100.00 change. The Fuel WILL STOP draining completely. There is about a quart or so of diesel in there? Never measured it... Once drained, leave the valve OPEN, unscrew the top, pull out old filter/cap. Check the bottom of the filter bowl for crud. If there is any, use a LINT FREE cloth to wipe the bottom. Must be LINT FREE. Or some people pour some Fresh Diesel in there and let it drain out the bottom. Put new filter on cap, new rubber ring, place new filter in the bowl and snug tight. Do NOT go too tight, they can crack. CLOSE THE YELLOW LEVER.

Turn key on and Bump starter. I leave my driver door open so I can hear when lift pump stops. Turn Key off and repeat. I do it 3X and she fires right up every time!

 

CACalomino, I am just down the 15 Freeway from you . If you have any questions during the procedure let me know. Instant message me and I will give you my phone #. if your down this way we can do it together first time. Piece of cake;

 

Most newer diesels with electronically actuated injectors will self purge any air in the system. "Air lock" is a problem with mechanical injectors because the air acts a a cushion in the lines from the IP to the injectors so sufficient pressure never reaches the injector to make it fire.

After doing the "key on/off" a few times my engine will start after 3 or 4 turns and sputter for only a second or two before clearing all the air and running normally.

 

When I change the fuel filter on my rig, I put a longer hose over the existing hose and place the end in an empty quart jar. It will fill the quart jar to about 2/3 to 3/4. I can then visually check for water or other contaminats, then I usually just pour it back into the tank.

DMH

 

Turn the key slowly until you here the fuel pump start humming, do this 2-3 times and it should then start right up.

Loosen the fuel canister lid before you open the drain and it'll empty quicker.

I have a 2' piece of 3/4" tubing to extend the drain tube.

 

ok so turn the key to the point where i will get the grid heater light on a few times and this will be all i need or do i just turn it a bit farther but not on. Ill have to practice and experiment wile im waiting for my filtes to show up from genos.

-Chris

 

Once you get the new filter in and put the lid back on and close the drain valve turn the truck on, then just bump the starter then wait 30 seconds and then turn the truck off then turn it back on and bump it again, do that 3X times, after the 3rd time start the truck, mine cranks slightly longer after about the 4th revolution it fires up and runs a little rough for a couple seconds then clears up. Its extremely easy.

 

When you turn the key to the run position, the lift pump will run for a few seconds.

If you turn it to start really quickly (not enough to turn engine over) the lift pump will run for like 30 seconds.

I also extended the drain hose, so it doesn't drizzle all over the axle, and also so I can look it over for water or other contamination. I just pour it into a jug I use as solvent.

If you do have to wipe out the inside, be very careful. A little bit of lint or debris on the center post, just a few microns, can apparently mess up an injector.

 

"When you turn the key to the run position, the lift pump will run for a few seconds."

Not quite true. By bumping it, it means to turn the key like your starting it, but only let the starter engage for a split second. This will turn o the relay that sends power to the lift pump. It is setup to cycle for a time then turn off or it will turn off when full fuel pressure is reached. Doing this three times will pump enough fuel in to refill the filter bowl. You can reduce this time by pouring some clean fuel in the bowl, but that can get messy and fuel can get old sitting in a can

Don't worry too much about it. Once you do it you'll see how easy it is and you'll be telling the next new guy how to do it.

 

they are VERY VERY easy to change. i have never had a problem with my not starting after draining it. just do what every one has said on here and it will be fine.


On a side note thoe my g/f's VW would NOT start after i changed the filter. it fired up then stalled and it wouldn't start at all. i had to give it a small sniff of starting fluid. then it started and ran like nothing ever happend. after it started and ran i shut it off and tried restarting it and it fired up like normal. dam VW'S!!