3rd Gen Engine and Drivetrain -> 2003-2007 5.9 liter Engine and drivetrain discussion only. PLEASE, NO HIGH PERFORMANCE DISCUSSION!

first oil change...

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Old May 12, 2011 | 08:05 PM
  #16  
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From: Great State of Idaho
Originally Posted by kris55
Did it yesterday, no problems at all,I was able to reach the filter with my arms and twist it off by hand. A wrench will definitely be ordered to make it easier next time, especially with an extension attached, but I managed, I suppose the hoist helped the access to the filter as well.

Thanks again for the info!!!
If you can twist your filter off by hand it is too loose. You don't want them so tight you can't get them off. But you also don't want them so loose that you take a chance of leaking oil. I screw the filter on as tight as I can get it by hand, then turn it 1/4-1/2 with the filter wrench. You cannot remove it by hand doing it this way.
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Old May 13, 2011 | 02:46 PM
  #17  
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Don't forget the fuel filter - at least every other oil change, or every oil change if you want piece of mind.
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Old May 13, 2011 | 03:32 PM
  #18  
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From: Cummins Technical Center, IN
Never use a wrench to install the oil filter. Just do it as hard as you can by hand, with the threads and gasket lubed with new oil.

I prefer to drain the oil hot-- it will have more crud in suspension then, and the thinner oil drains much faster.

I've become of a fan of the PIG flexible funnels, but on a CTD you don't really need one. But if you're worried about splashing, you could use one to create a "ramp" that will prevent that.

Check it out-- my local Napa carries them.

http://www.formafunnel.com/



Also, you might want park slightly nose high to help drain all the oil out.
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Old May 13, 2011 | 04:36 PM
  #19  
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From: Great State of Idaho
Originally Posted by HOHN
Never use a wrench to install the oil filter. Just do it as hard as you can by hand, with the threads and gasket lubed with new oil.

I prefer to drain the oil hot-- it will have more crud in suspension then, and the thinner oil drains much faster.

I've become of a fan of the PIG flexible funnels, but on a CTD you don't really need one. But if you're worried about splashing, you could use one to create a "ramp" that will prevent that.

Check it out-- my local Napa carries them.

http://www.formafunnel.com/



Also, you might want park slightly nose high to help drain all the oil out.
So the instructions on my Fleetguard filter are wrong?:

1. Lube the seal
2. Tighten by hand
3. Turn 3/4 more with wrench (I always thought this was too much so that's why I only do 1/4-1/2.
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Old May 13, 2011 | 05:40 PM
  #20  
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I believe on the filter itself it shows spinning till it touches and then 3/4 more...
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Old May 13, 2011 | 06:33 PM
  #21  
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From: Great State of Idaho
Owners manual says 3/4 of a turn after contact. General consensus on the net is: as tight as you can by hand +1/4. This is the way I've done it for as long as I can remember. I will say though, since I switched to synthetic oil, the filter does seem to be easier to remove.
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Old May 13, 2011 | 08:43 PM
  #22  
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From: Kuna, Idaho
Originally Posted by robtackett
Owners manual says 3/4 of a turn after contact. General consensus on the net is: as tight as you can by hand +1/4. This is the way I've done it for as long as I can remember. I will say though, since I switched to synthetic oil, the filter does seem to be easier to remove.
You go more than hand tight? I have never heard that. I go as tight as my paws can get it (~3/4 turn), and even then it's nearly impossible to remove!
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Old May 13, 2011 | 09:22 PM
  #23  
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From: Cummins Technical Center, IN
Originally Posted by robtackett
So the instructions on my Fleetguard filter are wrong?:

1. Lube the seal
2. Tighten by hand
3. Turn 3/4 more with wrench (I always thought this was too much so that's why I only do 1/4-1/2.

The instructions are correct. But they produce a filter installation that is almost impossible to remove.

Personally, I don't like needing to chisel off the filter. I've been installing mind without a wrench (hand tight only) for 9 years.

Never had a problem with leaks. Like AH64, I STILL struggle to remove the filter even when only installed hand-tight.

YMMV.
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Old May 13, 2011 | 10:17 PM
  #24  
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From: Great State of Idaho
Originally Posted by HOHN
The instructions are correct. But they produce a filter installation that is almost impossible to remove.

Personally, I don't like needing to chisel off the filter. I've been installing mind without a wrench (hand tight only) for 9 years.

Never had a problem with leaks. Like AH64, I STILL struggle to remove the filter even when only installed hand-tight.

YMMV.
Agree. That is why I only go 1/4-1/2, not 3/4 as per Fleetguard's instructions. Doing it this way, I've never had a problem getting the filter off at all.

I guess this was a good subject to bring up. Out of all the reading I've done on this forum, I can't remember coming across this subject. Seems simple but it's never really discussed. I didn't know there were people out there who only put their oil filters on hand tight. This has been an eye opener for me. I have a feeling there are many others out there who are thinking about their next oil filter install.

Here's a pic of the setup that works really good for me:
Attached Thumbnails first oil change...-dscn0050.jpg  
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Old May 14, 2011 | 10:02 AM
  #25  
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From: Great State of Idaho
I should note. I use that cap wrench and socket extensions on my '05, not my '92. In my '92, the oil filter is easily reached from the engine compartment.
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Old May 14, 2011 | 10:09 AM
  #26  
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Do you change your oil in the kitchen or is your shop that nice?
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Old May 14, 2011 | 11:03 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by S.TX.MEGA
Do you change your oil in the kitchen or is your shop that nice?
Yea, that's my shop/man cave. Just kidding.
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