Engine vibration help
Engine vibration help
I’ve spent the last week reading every thread I could find on vibrations, misses, poor idles, cov, fca, injectors, etc. I can’t find anything that matches the issue I’m having. The truck is an early 05 crew cab, 3500 dually, 2wd, NV5600. The truck has just under 170,000 miles. I’ve had this truck for a few months, long enough to install new Exergy 50 horse injectors, change the fluids, new brakes, etc. The truck is stock except 50 horse injectors, 5" straight pipe exhaust with no cat and a fluid damper. No programmers no gauges or anything.
The problem I’m having is a vibration at idle that seems to be getting worse. It’s not a terrible vibration and it doesn’t seem to be missing. Slowly raising the rpms makes the vibration less noticeable but I think I still feel it. The truck runs drives and starts perfect, It shows no signs of blow by, It hazes slightly after it warms up and blacks smokes slightly when you mash the peddle. When I start the truck in the morning when it’s cold (by cold I mean cold engine not cold outside temp, I live in FL) it idles smooth, it isn’t until it gets a little heat in it that I can notice the vibration. I feel the vibration in the shifter and gas pedal, the driver’s side mirror vibrates to but I think that because like everyone else’s its a little loose. The vibration is slight enough to tell me something isn’t right but my wife doesn’t even notice it when she drives the truck.
I’ve checked the motor mounts, adjusted the valves, added a Fluid Damper, added Power Service, I have probably less than 2000 miles on new Exergy injectors. The truck neither burns nor makes oil. I’ve read about COV’s and FCA's I just don’t want to throw parts at it.
Anyone experiencing anything similar or have any ideas? Like I said I searched and searched, I found people with similar issues but failed to report a fix or haven’t figured it out themselves.
The problem I’m having is a vibration at idle that seems to be getting worse. It’s not a terrible vibration and it doesn’t seem to be missing. Slowly raising the rpms makes the vibration less noticeable but I think I still feel it. The truck runs drives and starts perfect, It shows no signs of blow by, It hazes slightly after it warms up and blacks smokes slightly when you mash the peddle. When I start the truck in the morning when it’s cold (by cold I mean cold engine not cold outside temp, I live in FL) it idles smooth, it isn’t until it gets a little heat in it that I can notice the vibration. I feel the vibration in the shifter and gas pedal, the driver’s side mirror vibrates to but I think that because like everyone else’s its a little loose. The vibration is slight enough to tell me something isn’t right but my wife doesn’t even notice it when she drives the truck.
I’ve checked the motor mounts, adjusted the valves, added a Fluid Damper, added Power Service, I have probably less than 2000 miles on new Exergy injectors. The truck neither burns nor makes oil. I’ve read about COV’s and FCA's I just don’t want to throw parts at it.
Anyone experiencing anything similar or have any ideas? Like I said I searched and searched, I found people with similar issues but failed to report a fix or haven’t figured it out themselves.
A vibration like that can have a lot of reasons.
Once the engine is warm, remove the belt and run the engine again for 1-2 minutes.
With the belt back on, see of actuating the clutch will change the vibration.
Put the rear tires in the air and try to recreate the vibration while in gear.
Once the engine is warm, remove the belt and run the engine again for 1-2 minutes.
With the belt back on, see of actuating the clutch will change the vibration.
Put the rear tires in the air and try to recreate the vibration while in gear.
A vibration like that can have a lot of reasons.
Once the engine is warm, remove the belt and run the engine again for 1-2 minutes.
With the belt back on, see of actuating the clutch will change the vibration.
Put the rear tires in the air and try to recreate the vibration while in gear.
Once the engine is warm, remove the belt and run the engine again for 1-2 minutes.
With the belt back on, see of actuating the clutch will change the vibration.
Put the rear tires in the air and try to recreate the vibration while in gear.
You'de be surprised what you learn when you do stuff like that.
Clutch and transmission vibrations often don't show up when they're under a load. But spin the transmission with out a load and they can get a lot worse. That's when you discover the vibration at idle in neutral is really a main shaft bearing or a carrier bearing.
Clutch and transmission vibrations often don't show up when they're under a load. But spin the transmission with out a load and they can get a lot worse. That's when you discover the vibration at idle in neutral is really a main shaft bearing or a carrier bearing.
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I have seen many of these trucks shake because of the stock dual mass flywheel. They will shake at idle and smooth out with RPM and load, have seen some shake on deceleration. It does spin at the same rate as the crank as it is bolted to it. Seems to be a common problem most will experience at some time. Your shake could be caused a number of things, just the first thing that comes to mind.
You'de be surprised what you learn when you do stuff like that.
Clutch and transmission vibrations often don't show up when they're under a load. But spin the transmission with out a load and they can get a lot worse. That's when you discover the vibration at idle in neutral is really a main shaft bearing or a carrier bearing.
Clutch and transmission vibrations often don't show up when they're under a load. But spin the transmission with out a load and they can get a lot worse. That's when you discover the vibration at idle in neutral is really a main shaft bearing or a carrier bearing.
I have seen many of these trucks shake because of the stock dual mass flywheel. They will shake at idle and smooth out with RPM and load, have seen some shake on deceleration. It does spin at the same rate as the crank as it is bolted to it. Seems to be a common problem most will experience at some time. Your shake could be caused a number of things, just the first thing that comes to mind.
I recently have the same issue and found on the Turbo Diesel Register website www.turbodieselregister.com issue 73 IT’S TIME TO INSPECT YOUR HARMONIC DAMPER
Link to issue
http://www.turbodieselregister.com/t...echTopics.html
Credits to David Magnoli TDR Writer,
I tried to post the pdf but it’s too large. In short the damper has rubber between the inner and outer part of the damper that could cause the inner and outer parts to slip throwing it off balance and cause vibrations. I ordered a new one and currently in the midst of installing it (along with replacing the front seal and other opportunistic maintenance issues) to determine if this will fix it. Hopefully I will have it back together next week and post the results.
2006 - SLT Big Horn, 2500, 5.9, 168k miles, K&N, Silverline turbo back exhaust,
Huey Conway
Link to issue
http://www.turbodieselregister.com/t...echTopics.html
Credits to David Magnoli TDR Writer,
I tried to post the pdf but it’s too large. In short the damper has rubber between the inner and outer part of the damper that could cause the inner and outer parts to slip throwing it off balance and cause vibrations. I ordered a new one and currently in the midst of installing it (along with replacing the front seal and other opportunistic maintenance issues) to determine if this will fix it. Hopefully I will have it back together next week and post the results.
2006 - SLT Big Horn, 2500, 5.9, 168k miles, K&N, Silverline turbo back exhaust,
Huey Conway
I had a similar problem with my 06. I would describe mine as a thumping noise. I had three different techs say it was the dual mass flywheel. The thumping noise would increase as rpm's increased. The truck had 120k on the original clutch so I replaced it with a single piece Valair unit. The noise was still present so I felt it was isolated in the engine. I had an oil sample tested and the results showed a high copper level. I had a shop drop the oil pan and there was bearing material in the bottom. Upon further inspection with the engine pulled a main bearing had failed. I'm currently having it rebuilt. Good luck.


