Elusive 1-2 shift problem, any suggestions?
10-23-2013, 06:57 PM
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Elusive 1-2 shift problem, any suggestions?
Hey folks,
For the past few weeks my transmission guy, and I have been chasing a problem that I am having in first gear on my 2006 Ram 2500.
I currently have a DTT fully built transmission. This includes the master rebuild kit, and all of the billet goodies; save for the billet output. I have been running it for about a year now with no problems. It was assembled and installed at a transmission shop that has been in business for 20-30 years now.
About a month ago, it started shooting a P1749 code, and developed a really high shift from first gear going into second. I would say that it probably shifts from 1-2 under full throttle conditions at all times. Even at a crawl, it will work it's way up to the same exact speed. (around 22mph, ~2200-2500 rpm) and then hit 2nd gear nice and firm, where normally; it shifts somewhere between 10-15 under the same throttle. The problem only seems to persist at that 1-2 shift, then the transmission works great in the higher gears. It also doesn't downshift into first until I'm slowed to around 2-3mph. Slowing down for a stoplight, then accelerating at green without stopping has me running in 2nd gear at 10mph sometimes...
I took it to the shop, and my mechanic changed out the governor solenoid, as well as the actuator. This did nothing to fix it. I finally got ahold of DTT, and they said to put the voltage regulator on it. A week later, we got the regulator installed; and I'm still getting the same thing.
After getting the regulator going, it did seem to want to shift correctly in the middle of our test drive. This was at 4.7v on the regulator. After about a mile, the 1-2 shift shuddered like it was slipping in and out of gear a few times taking off from a stop sign; then started working the way it's suppose to for a few stops, before reverting back to the same problem. I figured the voltage regulator needed a little bit of adjusting, so I took it home and tried it out on various voltages, and was unable to reproduce the same scenario.
Nothing looks to be out of place. All plugs seem to be tightened securely. I removed the Banks tuner as soon as it started acting up, to take some strain off of the transmission. It was working fine one day, then driving it home from work; BOOM, it starts acting up.
My mechanic is out of ideas, and we are currently working to get some pressure readings for DTT to use to help diagnose. I was wondering if any of you might have had the same problem, or had any suggestions?
For the past few weeks my transmission guy, and I have been chasing a problem that I am having in first gear on my 2006 Ram 2500.
I currently have a DTT fully built transmission. This includes the master rebuild kit, and all of the billet goodies; save for the billet output. I have been running it for about a year now with no problems. It was assembled and installed at a transmission shop that has been in business for 20-30 years now.
About a month ago, it started shooting a P1749 code, and developed a really high shift from first gear going into second. I would say that it probably shifts from 1-2 under full throttle conditions at all times. Even at a crawl, it will work it's way up to the same exact speed. (around 22mph, ~2200-2500 rpm) and then hit 2nd gear nice and firm, where normally; it shifts somewhere between 10-15 under the same throttle. The problem only seems to persist at that 1-2 shift, then the transmission works great in the higher gears. It also doesn't downshift into first until I'm slowed to around 2-3mph. Slowing down for a stoplight, then accelerating at green without stopping has me running in 2nd gear at 10mph sometimes...
I took it to the shop, and my mechanic changed out the governor solenoid, as well as the actuator. This did nothing to fix it. I finally got ahold of DTT, and they said to put the voltage regulator on it. A week later, we got the regulator installed; and I'm still getting the same thing.
After getting the regulator going, it did seem to want to shift correctly in the middle of our test drive. This was at 4.7v on the regulator. After about a mile, the 1-2 shift shuddered like it was slipping in and out of gear a few times taking off from a stop sign; then started working the way it's suppose to for a few stops, before reverting back to the same problem. I figured the voltage regulator needed a little bit of adjusting, so I took it home and tried it out on various voltages, and was unable to reproduce the same scenario.
Nothing looks to be out of place. All plugs seem to be tightened securely. I removed the Banks tuner as soon as it started acting up, to take some strain off of the transmission. It was working fine one day, then driving it home from work; BOOM, it starts acting up.
My mechanic is out of ideas, and we are currently working to get some pressure readings for DTT to use to help diagnose. I was wondering if any of you might have had the same problem, or had any suggestions?
10-24-2013, 12:46 PM
#2
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Chaffed wire causing abnormal voltages? Usually the A/C wire chaffing on the High Pressure line causes stumbling, but it's worth a look.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...t=chaffed+wire
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...t=chaffed+wire
10-27-2013, 05:47 PM
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Update:
I just got an OBDII scanner tool for my birthday. So the first thing I do is run out there and throw it on the truck. I think this might have just become an electrical issue... (Dang!)
The codes that it shot me were
P0108: Manifold Absolute Pressure Circuit High
P0107: Manifold Absolute Pressure Circuit Low
P0642: Sensor Reference Voltage A Low
P0643: Sensor Reference Voltage A High
P1750: Transmission Throttle Valve Position Sensor Circuit High
P1749: Transmission Throttle Valve Position Sensor Circuit Low
Looks like it's getting some mixed signals here... Which has got me wondering if it's a ECU or TCU issue?
It would almost make sense. A couple of months ago I had a battery terminal that had come loose and was really arcing. I had to drive it a ways before being able to stop and get it fixed. All the while it was arcing away. Maybe that caused a problem that took a month to show up?
I cleared the codes, and took it for a test run. The only thing that is on there now is P1749. That one is constant.
I'm hoping it is a simple fix, but at this point I would gladly accept a computer failure... Anything to get this thing up and running... What do you guys think?
steelblitzkrieg:
I ran out as soon as I saw your post to look, and unfortunately couldn't find any chafing... Thank you much for the suggestion!
I just got an OBDII scanner tool for my birthday. So the first thing I do is run out there and throw it on the truck. I think this might have just become an electrical issue... (Dang!)
The codes that it shot me were
P0108: Manifold Absolute Pressure Circuit High
P0107: Manifold Absolute Pressure Circuit Low
P0642: Sensor Reference Voltage A Low
P0643: Sensor Reference Voltage A High
P1750: Transmission Throttle Valve Position Sensor Circuit High
P1749: Transmission Throttle Valve Position Sensor Circuit Low
Looks like it's getting some mixed signals here... Which has got me wondering if it's a ECU or TCU issue?
It would almost make sense. A couple of months ago I had a battery terminal that had come loose and was really arcing. I had to drive it a ways before being able to stop and get it fixed. All the while it was arcing away. Maybe that caused a problem that took a month to show up?
I cleared the codes, and took it for a test run. The only thing that is on there now is P1749. That one is constant.
I'm hoping it is a simple fix, but at this point I would gladly accept a computer failure... Anything to get this thing up and running... What do you guys think?
steelblitzkrieg:
I ran out as soon as I saw your post to look, and unfortunately couldn't find any chafing... Thank you much for the suggestion!
11-03-2013, 12:04 PM
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PROBLEM SOLVED!
After going back and forth with this thing for weeks, we've finally got it running right! It has been shifting flawlessly for about 3 days now.
On one of my drives home from the transmission shop, my truck REALLY started having trouble shifting. It would work fine up until the 2300 rpm, and then would rapidly slip in and out of 1-2 gear for 5-10 seconds. Finally it would catch and then run until 2-3 and do the same thing. I stopped the first chance I got and restarted the engine. It seemed to work fine the rest of the way to the house. I got it home and put the scanner on it, only to find a new code:
P1755: Trans Throttle Valve Actuator Control Circuit
Now there is plenty of info around on this code. This led me to tons of forums where there were plenty of people having the problem, but nobody coming back in saying "This is what I did to fix it." VERY frustrating... Eventually, I found a couple of posts that said changing the ECM worked, and a few that said that changing the TTVA worked. So I picked the cheapest part and made the gamble.
Turns out, it was the Transmission Throttle Valve Actuator (TTVA) component on the transmission. Apparently, Dodge put these on all diesel trucks after 05. From what I gather, this is a fairly common problem; due to these parts being made with PLASTIC gears inside them. At about 100k miles, those little plastic gears in my TTVA had had enough.
Funny thing is, the dealer had "a couple" of these in stock. (So they know about the problem.) With the transmission shop's discount, I was able to pick one of these up from the dealership for 314 bucks. (Retail $407)
SO, if you have a P1749, P1750, or a P1755 code, and are having the same problems I had; give the TTVA replacement a shot.
After going back and forth with this thing for weeks, we've finally got it running right! It has been shifting flawlessly for about 3 days now.
On one of my drives home from the transmission shop, my truck REALLY started having trouble shifting. It would work fine up until the 2300 rpm, and then would rapidly slip in and out of 1-2 gear for 5-10 seconds. Finally it would catch and then run until 2-3 and do the same thing. I stopped the first chance I got and restarted the engine. It seemed to work fine the rest of the way to the house. I got it home and put the scanner on it, only to find a new code:
P1755: Trans Throttle Valve Actuator Control Circuit
Now there is plenty of info around on this code. This led me to tons of forums where there were plenty of people having the problem, but nobody coming back in saying "This is what I did to fix it." VERY frustrating... Eventually, I found a couple of posts that said changing the ECM worked, and a few that said that changing the TTVA worked. So I picked the cheapest part and made the gamble.
Turns out, it was the Transmission Throttle Valve Actuator (TTVA) component on the transmission. Apparently, Dodge put these on all diesel trucks after 05. From what I gather, this is a fairly common problem; due to these parts being made with PLASTIC gears inside them. At about 100k miles, those little plastic gears in my TTVA had had enough.
Funny thing is, the dealer had "a couple" of these in stock. (So they know about the problem.) With the transmission shop's discount, I was able to pick one of these up from the dealership for 314 bucks. (Retail $407)
SO, if you have a P1749, P1750, or a P1755 code, and are having the same problems I had; give the TTVA replacement a shot.
11-27-2013, 01:40 AM
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PROBLEM SOLVED!
After going back and forth with this thing for weeks, we've finally got it running right! It has been shifting flawlessly for about 3 days now.
On one of my drives home from the transmission shop, my truck REALLY started having trouble shifting. It would work fine up until the 2300 rpm, and then would rapidly slip in and out of 1-2 gear for 5-10 seconds. Finally it would catch and then run until 2-3 and do the same thing. I stopped the first chance I got and restarted the engine. It seemed to work fine the rest of the way to the house. I got it home and put the scanner on it, only to find a new code:
P1755: Trans Throttle Valve Actuator Control Circuit
Now there is plenty of info around on this code. This led me to tons of forums where there were plenty of people having the problem, but nobody coming back in saying "This is what I did to fix it." VERY frustrating... Eventually, I found a couple of posts that said changing the ECM worked, and a few that said that changing the TTVA worked. So I picked the cheapest part and made the gamble.
Turns out, it was the Transmission Throttle Valve Actuator (TTVA) component on the transmission. Apparently, Dodge put these on all diesel trucks after 05. From what I gather, this is a fairly common problem; due to these parts being made with PLASTIC gears inside them. At about 100k miles, those little plastic gears in my TTVA had had enough.
Funny thing is, the dealer had "a couple" of these in stock. (So they know about the problem.) With the transmission shop's discount, I was able to pick one of these up from the dealership for 314 bucks. (Retail $407)
SO, if you have a P1749, P1750, or a P1755 code, and are having the same problems I had; give the TTVA replacement a shot.
After going back and forth with this thing for weeks, we've finally got it running right! It has been shifting flawlessly for about 3 days now.
On one of my drives home from the transmission shop, my truck REALLY started having trouble shifting. It would work fine up until the 2300 rpm, and then would rapidly slip in and out of 1-2 gear for 5-10 seconds. Finally it would catch and then run until 2-3 and do the same thing. I stopped the first chance I got and restarted the engine. It seemed to work fine the rest of the way to the house. I got it home and put the scanner on it, only to find a new code:
P1755: Trans Throttle Valve Actuator Control Circuit
Now there is plenty of info around on this code. This led me to tons of forums where there were plenty of people having the problem, but nobody coming back in saying "This is what I did to fix it." VERY frustrating... Eventually, I found a couple of posts that said changing the ECM worked, and a few that said that changing the TTVA worked. So I picked the cheapest part and made the gamble.
Turns out, it was the Transmission Throttle Valve Actuator (TTVA) component on the transmission. Apparently, Dodge put these on all diesel trucks after 05. From what I gather, this is a fairly common problem; due to these parts being made with PLASTIC gears inside them. At about 100k miles, those little plastic gears in my TTVA had had enough.
Funny thing is, the dealer had "a couple" of these in stock. (So they know about the problem.) With the transmission shop's discount, I was able to pick one of these up from the dealership for 314 bucks. (Retail $407)
SO, if you have a P1749, P1750, or a P1755 code, and are having the same problems I had; give the TTVA replacement a shot.
STILL HAVING PROBLEMS.$3,300.00 IN PARTS SO FAR...
I GUESS THE ONLY THIG LEFT IS THE **** ECM
BTW - THIS IS TRANSMISSION # 9
11-29-2013, 06:56 PM
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I hate to hear that man... The ECM was next on my list as well.
Some have to swap the TTVA, and some have to swap the ECM to get their trucks running. At least now you'll have peace of mind knowing that you have a brand new TTVA under you!
9 transmissions?!?
What kind of replacements have you been putting in there? Those things ain't cheap!
Some have to swap the TTVA, and some have to swap the ECM to get their trucks running. At least now you'll have peace of mind knowing that you have a brand new TTVA under you!
9 transmissions?!?
What kind of replacements have you been putting in there? Those things ain't cheap!
11-29-2013, 07:19 PM
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I hate to hear that man... The ECM was next on my list as well. Some have to swap the TTVA, and some have to swap the ECM to get their trucks running. At least now you'll have peace of mind knowing that you have a brand new TTVA under you! 9 transmissions?!? What kind of replacements have you been putting in there? Those things ain't cheap!
What kind of replacements have you been putting in there? Those things ain't cheap!Trending Topics
11-29-2013, 07:35 PM
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The first one came with the truck. 7 have been replaced under Warranty. This is the first one I built myself. I put in all the same parts you did mostly from DTT. I'm convinced this is been electronic issue all along. Dealers are happy to replace it even know they know what the problem is because they get PAID. THAT'S WHY CALL THEM STEELERS NOT Dealers. I could've lemon the truck twice by now but I love it too much, WHEN IT RUNS. ONLY HAS 54,000 MILES ON IT
11-29-2013, 07:36 PM
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The first one came with the truck. 7 have been replaced under Warranty. This is the first one I built myself. I put in all the same parts you did mostly from DTT. I'm convinced this is been electronic issue all along. Dealers are happy to replace it even know they know what the problem is because they get PAID. THAT'S WHY CALL THEM STEELERS NOT Dealers. I could've lemon the truck twice by now but I love it too much, WHEN IT RUNS. ONLY HAS 54,000 MILES ON IT
12-23-2013, 01:45 AM
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Man, that's terrible. I'd definitely be getting in touch with a dodge service rep. Of course, If you've put any kind of mods on it they'll shrug the blame off on it..
It could be some kind of faulty ECM... If it's eating transmissions like that then anything is worth a try! That warranty won't last forever, and I'd hate to have to foot the bill for transmission swaps every 100 miles.
I think I found some ECMs for 4-600 when I was having problems.
Have you gotten ahold of DTT and let them know what was going on? They may have some good suggestions of what might be causing your problems. Get ahold of Bill and see what he thinks about it, the guy knows his stuff!!
The aftermarket DTT parts probably killed your warranty. I'd try and swap them back out and try to rattle the chains of some higher-up Chrysler service reps if you can get it back to stock. There's no way I'd be patient after that much trouble... I'd have started yelling lemon law after the first few, that'd get the ball rolling!
It could be some kind of faulty ECM... If it's eating transmissions like that then anything is worth a try! That warranty won't last forever, and I'd hate to have to foot the bill for transmission swaps every 100 miles.
I think I found some ECMs for 4-600 when I was having problems.
Have you gotten ahold of DTT and let them know what was going on? They may have some good suggestions of what might be causing your problems. Get ahold of Bill and see what he thinks about it, the guy knows his stuff!!
The aftermarket DTT parts probably killed your warranty. I'd try and swap them back out and try to rattle the chains of some higher-up Chrysler service reps if you can get it back to stock. There's no way I'd be patient after that much trouble... I'd have started yelling lemon law after the first few, that'd get the ball rolling!
12-24-2013, 05:36 PM
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Thanks for the reply. I really appreciate the time you put into it. Looks like its an ECU. Dealers are quoting $1800 installed. My 7year 100K warranty was up years ago (while it was in the shop and i was fighting yet another warranty claim). I contacted a lemon law attorney yesterday and they told me that the Cali. lemon law does not cover extended warranties even if you buy them from the MFG.
I've effen had it with this truck. i should have lemoned it years ago. there is not another truck available that compares. The main reason i did not lemon it is because an 07 has that POS 6.7 with all the smog **** and you can't run Mexican Diesel. I have 10 times more money in this effin POS than it's worth!
I just don't care anymore. It's just a vehicle that looks good in some service bay parking lot. F'n 06 with only 54Kmi. on it.!!
Iv'e talked to 06 owners with better than 200K on their trucks (manual trans). I don't even feel like i own this truck anymore. 10 TEN elfin TRANSMISSIONS!! thanks for the reply but i gotta go
I've effen had it with this truck. i should have lemoned it years ago. there is not another truck available that compares. The main reason i did not lemon it is because an 07 has that POS 6.7 with all the smog **** and you can't run Mexican Diesel. I have 10 times more money in this effin POS than it's worth!
I just don't care anymore. It's just a vehicle that looks good in some service bay parking lot. F'n 06 with only 54Kmi. on it.!!
Iv'e talked to 06 owners with better than 200K on their trucks (manual trans). I don't even feel like i own this truck anymore. 10 TEN elfin TRANSMISSIONS!! thanks for the reply but i gotta go
03-26-2015, 09:24 AM
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((( really need help fellas )))
__________________________________________________ _______________
**Update**
So I sent the ECM in and 3 weeks later they send it back and say nothings wrong with it?
((( Fellas I have been through 9 transmission replacements in 54,000mi. )))
(The last one I built with every HD part available including a trans cooler fan)
I have replaced EVERY part related to the transmission. Tried the DTT voltage regulator and I have had NO LUCK! - (This is an 06 that sits more than it drives I mean c'mon an 06 with 54Kmi??? who's ever heard of such a thing.)
I'm at the end of my rope here fellas - I NEED HELP -
I don't know what to do - Any ideas?
I don't normally do this but i'm going to put my cell # 818.369.4777 up If anyone has any ideas I'd sure appreciate a call. I'd definitely compensate the person who figures it out!
BTW ****I replaced the TTVA - but i'm wondering if this part was maybe bad out of the box. Its my last idea before using pyrotechnics on the truck
04-12-2015, 03:55 AM
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This is just a suggestion, but when I bought my truck new, I suffered intermittent crank sensor codes. I fought the fault for a year without finding the cause. In frustration, I took the truck to Bosch and asked them to look at it. I got a call in the afternoon of that day and they stated that they discovered the problem and I could pick up the truck. When I got there, I asked the mechanic what he found and he said that when the cable was manufactured that the crank sensor plugs into to, one pin was crimped over the wire insulation on one wire and the connection was intermittent. He soldered the wire and it has been fine since. Although my crank sensor has nothing to do with your problem, the solution may be similar. After all, you have changed or checked all the major assemblies concerned at both ends of the cable, why not the cable?