Drain Plug Q's?
Drain Plug Q's?
I am getting ready to do my 30k Service on my 2007 5.9L 2500 4wd QC auto.
Does the front and rear diffs have drain plugs?
What are the front and rear differentials in the truck? (IE Dana 40, 60, etc......)?
Is there a drain plug on the auto trans?
Has anybody put on the diff covers with drain plugs or installed the retro fit drain plug kits in them? If so what did you think of the modification?
Also if the trans pan has no drain plug, has anyone installed a new pan or retro fitted a plug into it? If so, what did you think of this modification?
I used the search and got some useful info, just looking to make sure I get the facts straight so I can get this done fast and easily now and in the future.
Does the front and rear diffs have drain plugs?
What are the front and rear differentials in the truck? (IE Dana 40, 60, etc......)?
Is there a drain plug on the auto trans?
Has anybody put on the diff covers with drain plugs or installed the retro fit drain plug kits in them? If so what did you think of the modification?
Also if the trans pan has no drain plug, has anyone installed a new pan or retro fitted a plug into it? If so, what did you think of this modification?
I used the search and got some useful info, just looking to make sure I get the facts straight so I can get this done fast and easily now and in the future.
NO drain plugs on transmission, front & rear diffs. As far as the diffs the seals are reusable so do't monkey them up taking them off. Just lossen the bolts and drain it out, then wipe it out good. Piece of cake to do.
The rear is a AAM axle, I think it's the same one on the GM's. Real good axle. IMO
The rear is a AAM axle, I think it's the same one on the GM's. Real good axle. IMO
I always add a drain plug to all my vehicles. Costs a few bucks at any auto parts store and takes a few extra minutes the first time I service the trans. After that it is much less messy.
Not much point in adding drain plugs to the differentials as you would want to take that opportunity to inspect the gears anyway.
Not much point in adding drain plugs to the differentials as you would want to take that opportunity to inspect the gears anyway.
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Hey SNOP, Good to see you back here again from SLD land (Megabace2) here. I currently have 20K on my mega 5.9L and changed the diff's at 5k with Royal Purple. Easy to do, just loosen the bolts, let them drain, clean and reinstall as the gaskets are the reusable type. Mine is limited slip but you don't have to add any modifiers with the fluid change. I have been REALLY happy with the RP stuff but I hear Mobile 1 and AMSOIL are great also. I chose to use 75W90 even though I tow the Desert Fox ToyHauler.
Just this weekend due to the snow and going stir crazy I decided to change out the transaxle also. Remove the top plug first as mine was tight and then the bottom plug to drain.
As for Tranny I had Napa pull a filter to look at it. They include a gasket even though the pan says the gasket is reusable. Don't know about adding a drain plug as thats out of my comfort zone but I do plan to drop the pan myself, change the filter and reinstall in another 10K miles.
Just this weekend due to the snow and going stir crazy I decided to change out the transaxle also. Remove the top plug first as mine was tight and then the bottom plug to drain.
As for Tranny I had Napa pull a filter to look at it. They include a gasket even though the pan says the gasket is reusable. Don't know about adding a drain plug as thats out of my comfort zone but I do plan to drop the pan myself, change the filter and reinstall in another 10K miles.
Hello!!!!!!!
So the royal purple has the friction modifier in it for the rear end already?
Where is the build sheet or option sticker at that tells you which setup you will have? Is it coded? How do you decode it?
The drain plug retro fit kits are pretty easy to do on the trans pans.
So the royal purple has the friction modifier in it for the rear end already?
Where is the build sheet or option sticker at that tells you which setup you will have? Is it coded? How do you decode it?
The drain plug retro fit kits are pretty easy to do on the trans pans.
I bought my truck new from Dicks Country Dodge so I have the factory options sheet which shows the 3.73 Gear ratio limited slip. Call Dicks service if you want the service manager guys there are usually really helpful with your VIN. It might also say on the door panel. I thought I also heard about a sticker in the glove compartment that might say something. According to Royal Purple when I did the research no modifier is needed plus I also went by what many on DTR where doing and research I did on here. Haven't had a problem yet. In fact, I plan to replace again at 30k the diffs again with RP since my original change was at 5K. I might have to look into those retro kits if Napa has them.
Here's from the RP website;
Max-Gear is recommended for use in truck, motor home / RV, and automotive front or rear differentials, manual transmissions, and lower gear units of marine engines that specify use of an API GL-5 or GL-4 fluid. All viscosities of Max-Gear are formulated with hypoid friction modifiers necessary for use in clutch or cone type differentials. No additional additives are necessary.
Here's some information I'v learned from reading this site:
If you want to learn what options your truck has, send an e-mail to Dodge via their web site. Supply the VIN, and the'll send you a build sheet. I got mine back in less than 24 hours. I learned I do have LSD.
The AAM rear diff is an LSD, but it's a worm gear, like a detroit trutrak or torsion T2. It's a modern version of the old gleason drive. There are no clutches, so you never need friction modifier. And, without clutches, they last a lot longer.
Proper gear lube depends on application - things like heavy duty towing vs. rock crawling. And temps - Anchorage trucks need a lighter oil than Phoenix trucks.
Synthetic gear lubes can withstand higher temps for longer periods. If you don't experiance high temps, there's no need to waste money on synthetics. Unless it makes you fell better.
I'm continually amazed at what I learn here.
If you want to learn what options your truck has, send an e-mail to Dodge via their web site. Supply the VIN, and the'll send you a build sheet. I got mine back in less than 24 hours. I learned I do have LSD.
The AAM rear diff is an LSD, but it's a worm gear, like a detroit trutrak or torsion T2. It's a modern version of the old gleason drive. There are no clutches, so you never need friction modifier. And, without clutches, they last a lot longer.
Proper gear lube depends on application - things like heavy duty towing vs. rock crawling. And temps - Anchorage trucks need a lighter oil than Phoenix trucks.
Synthetic gear lubes can withstand higher temps for longer periods. If you don't experiance high temps, there's no need to waste money on synthetics. Unless it makes you fell better.
I'm continually amazed at what I learn here.
I may still have the minroni sticker to my truck in my glovebox.
Does anyone know how to read the option coding for the limited slip rear end? Are there other guys here with 2007 5.9L 2500 4wd big horns that have a limited slip?
Does anyone know how to read the option coding for the limited slip rear end? Are there other guys here with 2007 5.9L 2500 4wd big horns that have a limited slip?
Mine does. According to the build sheet.


