My dad runs it in his `99 PSD (I probably just opened the "flame Ford' flood gate) and he has seen no issues.

I am responsible for keeping out Cat 3512 genset full here at work. I deal with several fuel suppliers. There are several grades of diesel you can buy:

#1 premium (lo-sulphur) On road (no dye)
#1 premium (lo-sulphur) Off road (red dye)
#2 (lo-sulphur) On road (no dye)
#2 (lo-sulphur) Off road (red dye)
#2 (hi-sulphur) Off road (red dye)

Then there is the fuel oil catagories that I don't deal with.

Sulphur is like lead was to gassers - it's a lubricant for the fuel sys (valves in gassers). To the engine the harm is done in the form of the sulphur by-product of combustion, sulphuric acid. You all know what acid does to metal. The EPA is concerned with what it does to the environment - which is why you can't buy hi-sulphur diesel for on-road use.

What do I think it will do to your CTD? Eat the cat and rust the exhaust. The internals may suffer too if you have Al parts in contact with the combustion chamber gasses (exhaust). Injectors, fuel pumps, filters won't even know it's there.

Chevy 6.2L & 6.5L NA diesels are notorius for failing mechanical injector pumps at 30K miles - it's a$1600 pump so the trucks go to the junk yard (frankly where they belong ) way before their time - the repair is more than the value of the truck. Why do they fail? Well in the early `90s when the removed HSD (hi-sulphur diesel) from the auto pumps the injector pumps were designed to run on HSD for lubrication. So they just burned up, literaly. The fix is to throw a qt of used or new motor (cheapest stuff you can find) in with every 10 gal of diesel (~40:1). Motor oil and ATF are loaded with sulphur, you you are essentially making HSD in your tank (red-neck style ). You will also notice a 2+ mph gain as now a lubricated pump can generate proper pressure and atomize the fuel properly. How many trucks made from `94 on have self lubricating pumps, all of them. It's like running a 2-stroke on 72:1. It'll work for a while, just not a long while, and the perf will s*ck.

Why used motor oil? Why not? You've already paid for it, you got a fuel filter. Don't be dumb and squeegie it off the shop floor into a dust pan, put it into a coffee can with grounds still in it. Pour it through the multi-purpose funnel you have laying around the garage that hasen't been cleaned since you bought it 20 years ago. Common sence goes a long way here. If it comes out of your oil pan into a clean container then it is pretty much ready to go.

Here is the circle j@rk on used motor oils. It's a hazardous material that you can't legally use for liquid edger, anymore. You have to dispose of it properly. You are charged a disposal fee by the store you buy it from for every qt you buy. They simply add it into the price and are not required to show you what it is. They are required by the EPA to accept back used motor oil equal to the quantity they sold you at no charge - they already charged you!!! They then pay an oil reclaimer to come pick it up. That guy is just a transporter, really. He takes it and sells it to oil recycler. They filter it. Group it with similiar oils they separate. Then they sell it in various grades of "fuel oil" to distributors. The EPA states that controlled combustion is an acceptable form of used oil disposal. So the distributord sell it mainly to the marine industry where they have mixers that once the engine gets to operating temp, mixes about 30% used oil and 70% HSD. There is much more BTUs in oil than diesel so the consumption rate is less and the power remains the same. But like with any fuel the burn rate is important and dictates the fuel's application. Why can't I run a diesel at 7k RPM - because the piston will out-run the expanding flame from the burning diesel. Piston speeds become very important in drag racing as RPM = HP in most cases. So they use volitile fuels like gasoline and nitro-methane. Octane actually increases the flash poing of gasoline. Yes, 87 octaine gas is more volitile than 110 race gas - why do you thing they have to step the octane up when the compression goes up? The compression heat will pre-detonate the fuel. Diesels have cetane that reduces the flash point for older diesels that aren't running 23:1 with turbos - but you all already knew that I'm sure.

Well I'm ramblin. I just thing it's funny how you pay to dispose of oil that they wind up selling back to you. You might as well consume it yourself!

 

Fastzilla sulfur is NOT a lubricant, and has no benefit. People commonly mistake it for a lubricant because lost lubricity is always talked about when removing sulfur from fuel. In fact it's the refining process that strips away the fuel's lubricity along with the sulfur.

I do agree that on a 600 , high sulfur fuel may damage the catalytic converter and will be hard on the exhaust. Kinda like running leaded gas.

 

How long can diesel set, and still be able to use it? I have about 50 gallons of diesel that has been setting for about a year, is it usable or just a fire starter?

 

Hmmm....a year??? I don't know how long it stays stable, but I get nervous if it sits a couple of months!

 

Guess that's why adding oil in the tank adds life to older engines. Kind of makes, sulphur is crystals like salt.

Here's sone info concerning sulphur in diesel or the lack of it and what it does:
http://www.bebioenergy.com/impact.htm

 

I know people that run marble mystery oil or transmisison fluid mixed in with there diesel fuel, and claim that to be the best additive. Any thoughts?