I bought the extended warranty so I know mine are covered for 7/100.

 

Well the assembly on my 99F250 wasn't light either and I able to wiggle it in the fashion I mentioned to determine my ball joints were bad.

That could be true as well, had you had stock or close to stock size they may have ate the cost and done them for you.

 

At around 33K I first discovered my drivers side were loose, had some play and the passenger side was tight, I took it to the dealership and they checked it out and said they were still well with in specs, so there are tolerance's they go by. I have been checking them every 5K miles since truck was new, when I do oil change and they have remained the same pass side tight as can be and drivers side slight play.("note" Drivers side was also tight until 33K mark"). No noticeable tire wear either that goes with bad ball joints. I now have over 48K and just with in the last week I checked the ball joints when replacing the stock shocks with Rancho 9000X and they still remain the same, drivers side slight play, passenger side tight. When I do replace them it will be the Moog brand I use.

Tony

 

I disagree I just had mine into the dealer due the rear u joint being shot and had them check out the popping sound coming from the right front. They came back and said it was the ball joints and that all of them needed to be replaced for 1300 and change and with 48000 on the truck they are no longer under warrenty. This truck is bone stock and it was all highway miles (Avg. 52.9 MPH over the life of the truck). The u joint was covered with the $100 deductable but I felt this was a little early for the ball joints to be this bad.

 

Sounds like something I will need to keep an eye on as well

MOOG, is the way to go...

 

The ball joints are a wink link no doubt. That's a given even on a stock truck with these heavy engines. I guess they could do a better job on ball joint design what else can you say. All I was saying is a dealer can deny warranty if you've got huge 325 tires like he had.