my truck has always had low power when it is started cold ( ambient ~ 40 deg.)
then once it warms up it seems to have full power. i assume this is by design, possibly through the intake air temp sensor?
lately, the truck will not begin to run on full power for quite some time, i can turn off the truck and wait a few minutes and it will usually start running right, but not always.

when i mean low power i am talking about only being able to run 50 mph flat with 5k in tow, the same load at full power i can run 80+ if i so desire.

where do i start? do i buy a new sensor? am on even in the ballpark assuming thats what it might be?

thanks, chris

 

Try getting any codes with ignition on/off/on/off/on and leave on, read codes in odometer.

Change fuel and air filters?

Disconnect Edge?

Lift pump test (pressure/volume)?

 

forgot to change profile,

no longer have the edge.

i can change the fuel and air, but can someone please explain to me how that affects cold weather running but not warm weather? and why once the truck is turned off and restarted it corrects itself, i don; think air filter or fuel filter play into the equation...however i can sure be wrong. i just don;t understand it.

codes are as follows
p0108
p0107
p0073

i think the 0073 hit when i unplugged the IAT sensor, that is the only time i have flagged a CEL

thanks, chris

 

CC, In order to warm the truck up faster the ECM adjusts fueling to the cylinders....until the block is warmed up to operating temps you are operating at far less than normal power. You shouldn't tow a trailer out of the hole on a truck that isn't properly warmed. If you are on the road and stop overnight with a trailer...Plug in the block heater and keep the load on the engine light until the temps are up to normal + 10 minutes. You have cast iron block, steel internals and aluminum pistons. The parts must be in their stable temperature zone before being pushed hard....that is common sense and the reality of diesel engines. In the Alberta oilfields alot of trucks don't get turned off a night as it does less damage on the engines to keep them idling at operating temperatures than cold hard starts and warm ups. Our trucks need to be idled at 1100 rpm's or more to warm up properly...or driven for 15 minutes with light load. Hope this helps. ks

 

maybe i am not able to put this down in text properly to describe my issues.

outside temp can be 40 eg. i crank the truck, let it idle for 15-20 minutes ( really makes no difference in my performance) or longer. the pull out of driveway, drive 3 miles down the road, stop at c-store for a drink, get back on road. enter the freeway and not ever exceed ~ 50 mph, even though i am trying to get up to a decent speed.

i can then pull the truck over, turn it off for ~ 5 mintes.
crank it back up, and take off like normal, run whatever speed i want to.

what is causing the truck to do this

40 deg, is really not that cold.



thanks,
chris

 

CC, Do you idle at more than 1100 rpm? ks

 

when it is cold out the truck kicks up the idle on its own, but i have not checked the rpm.

just a WAG is ~ 1k

i do not have an AIC, but i can sure try it with a yard stick cut to size.

is 1100 rpm, enough to build/retain engine heat?

i still think this is a sensor isssue, or programming somehow, as when the truck is up to temp, it does not correct itself, i have to restart the truck to get it to run properly after warming up.

thanks, chris

 

I agree the filters are most likely not it but threw that in as a standard thing to check.

P0108 is Inlet Air Pressure Sensor voltage too high
p0107 is Inlet Air Pressure Sensor voltage too low
p0073 is Inlet air temperature sensor voltage too high

 

sounds like you have an issue with your intake pressure sensor??? with those codes at least?

 

is the intake pressure sensor the sensor that mounts to the airbox?
if so that is what i was calling the intake temp sensor, but that was just an assumption.

i do not have a list for codes, so i am not able to decipher what they mean.
can someone please list the three that i have.

thanks, chris

 

he already did!

The air sensor is on the intake side of the engine. It is just behind your intake horn. I believe it is the blue one not the orange one.. But not 100% sure.

 

sorry, must have had my head in a dark place.

do i just tell the dealer that i need a new inlet air pressure sensor?
or where would i locate it on the truck to get a part number?

thanks, for the info.
chris

 

CC, Drop it off early so it will be cold when the tech gets to it. Have him plug in the DRBIII and start. He'll pick up the problem and he'll check the sensors and their outputs. ks

 

is this something that i can just purchase and change out myself?
i don;t really like going to the dealer for repairs unless i just absolutely have to.

or can somebody point me in the right direction on the engine to locate the sensor?

one more thing that just came to me,
at one point when i was hooking up the edge ez ( it is no longer on the truck), i did not get one of the connectors on properly, and the truck was running poorly, it happened for about 2 minutes, then i got the plug pushed in all the way, and it corrected itself.

could that be why i have the p0107 and p01018 ?

can it be a bad map sensor causing these problems?

i am not real sure of what the trouble codes apply to in hard parts.

thanks, chris

 

Most likely the problem installing the Edge EZ was with the fuel rail pressure sensor. I had the same problem with mine and set off a code P0193.

I would check the connector at the MAP sensor and add a little dielectric grease in the socket.


MikeyB