I am an OLD SENIOR, and don't mean to take up FORUM time with this, but I really need some help.
The Dodge manual does say something about the water in fuel lever and I can handle that. However The manual doesn't tell the customer how to change the FUEL FILTER.
I really need a blow by blow on changing the fuel filter, could one of you young whippersnappers please help me. Remember you guys, YOUR GOING TO BE OLD ONE DAY TOO..........
THANK YOU John

 

Turn the lever, let out some fuel( I usually only let out a little bit, just enough so the whole cup isnt full)
Then get a 1 and 1/8" socket (1.125), losen the lid enough to get it off by hand.
Pull it up and out, snap the old filter off, snap the new filter in(hole on the bottom)
Replace the Oring with the new one with the filter, lube it up with diesel.
Spin it back on, snug it down again with the socket.
Fire it up, check for leaks


If you drain the housing all the way, it may take a few cranks, or prime sessions to get it up and running(not bad, just maybe 2-3 key cycles to get the canister full again) Or may take a second or two longer to crank over.

 

Hemlockusa,

I don't want to insult your intelligence, but I'll start from the beginning in case you haven't found the fuel filter cup.

Looking at the engine from the front, the fuel filter sits high on the right side toward the firewall. It's got a black screw-on lid that, if I remember right, a 1 1/8" socket will fit on the unscrew it.

The filter will be attached to the lid when you lift it up and will be dumping diesel, so lift slowly.

Shootist

 

ok once you locate your fuel filter on the drivers side of thge engine block near the fire wall you will see a yellow lever on the front of the fuel filter housing which leads to a clear hose that runs down and out the underside of the truck. normally i take a foot and half piece of tube and slid to onto this clear hose to extend it down to a container to catch the diesel drained out of the filter housing. next turn the yellow lever to release the pressure in the housing. you then need a 1 1/8" (to my knowledge without double checking) socket to remove the filter lid the filter will pull out with the lid. the filter will just snap loose when to pull it off. remove the old rubber o-ring and replace it. snap the new filter in place and place the lid back on the top of the housing. tigthen the lid back down to snug don't over tighten it is only a plastic lid (genos sells billet aluminum replacement lids) close off the yellow lever. remove the tube and container deisel can be put back in the tank. bump the starter 2 or 3 times not letting the truck start then start the engine. bumping will allow the lift pump to build up the pressure that you released out of the filter housing. feel free to pm me if you feel that you need pictures of anything i'm talking about.

 

This link really helped me thie first time. The pics are great.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...n&onlynewfaq=1

 

OK, MEN I GOT IT..... I want to thank each and everyone of you, wippersnappers.......... AGAIN THANK YOU... John

 

Come on now, John, nobody is so old they actually use the word wippersnappers!

 

Dont forget to buy your filters from Cummins since the dealership tend to charge twice as much. 30-40 dollars compard to 5-10 dollars depending on your dealer. They also now have a seven micron Fleet Guard filter that replaces the Fleet Guard FL19795 10 micron filter. I just do not have the part number handy.

 

Dont forget to buy your filters from Cummins since the dealership tend to charge twice as much. Such as $30-40 dollars compared to $5-10 dollars at the Cummins dealer. They also now have a seven micron Fleet Guard filter that replaces the Fleet Guard FL19795 10 micron filter. I just do not have the part number handy, I think its a FL198000. Fleet Guard is Cummins recommendation for the engine's fuel and lube filters. Not to metion Dodge approves the use of Fleet Guard filters as OEM replacement if you are still under warranty.