This will be the first time I have changed the fuel filter on my 2003 myself. I usally have my dealer do it every other oil change but they charge me $100.00 parts/labor thats too much. I would appreciate any help. Thanks Jim

 

I have been preparing for a weekend job of changing transmission fluid in my 6 speed and a fuel filter change as well. Check the post below I'm going to copy it to replace the one I had posted here. jim

 

First you need to buy a 1 1/8 inch, 6 point socket for the removal of the filter lid. Don't just try to use an extension in the square cutout on the lid. You'll crack the lid. What I did was to mark where the factory lid lined up with the housing. I used a white paint pen. This will help when you reinstall the lid so you don't over or under tighten.

By the manual:
REMOVAL
1. with engine off, OPEN drain valve on side of fuel/H2O separator (you'll see fuel flowing out of clear tubing onto front diff cover)
2. After fuel stops draining, close valve
3. Clean debris from around canister and remove filter lid with socket mentioned above
4. Filter should come off with lid as one piece. (what I did was to place a plastice shopping bag next to the engine so when I fulled the filter off I could throw it right into the bag without leaking all over)
5. Twist filter sideways to remove from lid
6. Remove O-ring and trash with filter (new filter will have new O-ring)
7.Now here some say to use a lint free rag to clean the inside of the fuel/H2O separator. Some say they don't. I tried to get as much off the leftover fuel out of it as possible but big hands made it difficult. Either way you'll be fine. I highly doubt the dealer takes the extra time to do that.

INSTALLATION
1. Install new O-ring to canister & lube with 30W oil. ( I used just some clean diesel fuel)
2. Position new filter into canister lid. Place assembly into canister (you'll need to push down a little) and rotate clockwise.
3. Tighten cap to 25 ft lbs torque. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN! (this is why I marked the lid and canister so I could line them back up after install. Now I bought a new torque wrench last week but I'll still use the line to match up to the torque specs.)
4. Make sure you turned the drain valve off from before (step #2 from REMOVAL)You're done. Now to prime system.

FUEL SYSTEM PRIME
1. The lift pump is self priming.
2. Turn key towards ON without cranking. (You'll hear a buzzing from under the hood. This is the fuel refilling the canister)
3. I had to do this 3 times I believe.
4. On the forth time, after the buzzing stops, crank over the engine. It should start. If it doesn't, don't worry. Take a deep breath and turn the key off then repeat step #2 a few more times.

DC notes: Do not engage starter for more than 30 seconds at a time. Allow 2 minutes between crank intervals.

When engine does start, it may run erratically (rough ) and be noisy (I do miss my 2000) for a few minutes. THIS IS NORMAL.

Good luck my friend it is really too easy. PM me if you have more questions.

 

why can't you just tighten the lid all the way down till it stops?

Jamie

 

100 BUCKS!!!! dont pay that again...takes 5 minutes to do, and the filter is 12 bucks.


you can just snug her up, i dont trust the "white mark" method listed above. What if the new O-ring is a LIL smaller, or larger.


Just snug her up...i have 50,000 miles on the "Beast", and i change my filter at every oil change. I never have a problem....use common sense.

And yes, use the socket, not the ratchet square. also, be sure to empty the canister, and wipe it clean. I use a pair of "hemostats" with a paper towel, and wipe down the water in fuel sensor.

 

Good procedure. My lid says torque to 25 ft pds MAX. So I do it to about 20 and that seems to make me nervous about being too tight. I am thinking about getting the billet version from Genos.

Pete

 

I changed mine last week 2nd time for this truck. I left the drain valve open until the lid was off the filter and noticed that more fuel came out of the bowl. Vacuum I guess. Very easy procedure. Much easier than my 6.5.

 

Guys thanks for all the info. Sounds pretty easy I agree with the use of common sense. I will let you know how it turns out. Thanks Jim

 

One the cap is says do not Torque more than 25 lb ft. I just snug it down, 25 lb ft is ok just dont go 26 or 27 for it is plastic and could break very easily.

 

very easily done, plus you get the satisfaction of doing the job yourself.

the most time consuming part was running down to Sears to buy the 1 1/8 socket.

 

and make sure its a 6 point, not the 12 point sockets.


Very easy to do, and you get to see just how nasty your fuel is

 

I added some cheap 'chemical gloves' and a big ziploc for dirty tools to the kit in the truck with the extra fuel filter, in case you need to do it on the road somewhere. You don't want diesel all over your shifter, steering wheel, door handles, etc.

 

Just did mine today and used torque wrench to tighten to 25#. I noticed that 25# is right at the end of the threads, it won't turn any more. BTW it took me three tries to crank it, whereas in the past it's cranked right up... wonder why?

I did bump the starter twice and let it cycle.

Jamie

 

Tighten too much and you'll SQUEEZE the "O" ring out in spots, (not that I know form experience or anything) Huh, 25 ft. lbs, mine was cranked up real tight the first time I changed it. I torqued her up as tight as I thought anything plastic could be. Next time I'll do it with the torque wrench.

 

I get my fuel and oil filter down at my local Kenworth.

Oil runs about $11-$13
Fuel runs about $12-$15

I also only once paid the dealer $100 and only once did I get the filter ($50 filter) from the dealer. Never again. It seems to take you longer it get the filter out of the package and to get the tools out than is actually change the filter.