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Change Fuel Pump(s)?

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Old Aug 27, 2011 | 12:40 PM
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Change Fuel Pump(s)?

Long time since I posted, so some background. The truck now has 174k on the original fuel pumps. Truck still runs great with excellent fuel milage. We are getting ready to take the truck on a road trip to Alaska and I'm a little concerned about the fuel pumps.

How do I tell if the pumps are getting ready to fail? Should I replace one or both before we leave (expensive!)? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
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Old Aug 27, 2011 | 01:04 PM
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Are you talking about the lift pump and the CP3 (injection) pump?
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Old Aug 27, 2011 | 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by 06RAM2500
Are you talking about the lift pump and the CP3 (injection) pump?
Actually, both. Both are original and if either one goes out, I'm dead. I know I'm graspping at straws, but I don't want to replace one or both if there is some way of telling their health.
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Old Aug 27, 2011 | 02:46 PM
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All you need is a fuel pressure gauge, as long as the fuel pump is putting solid pressure to the CP3 and keeping it cool, then you're good.

If you still have the canister mounted pump, I would look into getting a new fuel pump. It's cheap assurance.
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Old Aug 27, 2011 | 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by madhat
All you need is a fuel pressure gauge, as long as the fuel pump is putting solid pressure to the CP3 and keeping it cool, then you're good.

If you still have the canister mounted pump, I would look into getting a new fuel pump. It's cheap assurance.
madhat, thanks for the reply. I'm going out on a limb here, but I think mine, being one of the first CRD off the line, has the in-tank lift pump. I believe the canister mounted pump came latter.
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Old Aug 27, 2011 | 08:38 PM
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Let's hope so. The in tank pumps didn't have a lot of problems.

I'd still get a fuel pressure gauge.
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Old Aug 28, 2011 | 12:13 AM
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X2 on the fuel pressure gauge. I indicate 7-8psi downstream of my Baldwin remote set-up at any highway speed and 5psi WOT. If I get below a steady 4psi it's time to change fuel filter and water separator.
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Old Aug 28, 2011 | 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by The Boss Hog
madhat, thanks for the reply. I'm going out on a limb here, but I think mine, being one of the first CRD off the line, has the in-tank lift pump. I believe the canister mounted pump came latter.

the in-tank pumps didn't show up until 05. If you have a canister pump with 174K the very least I would do is carry a spare pump.
to check to see if you have a canister pump, look at the fuel filter housing and see if there is a black cylinder on the back of it.

Here's a pic



Joe
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Old Aug 29, 2011 | 02:06 AM
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First time I am posting here. Have a '99 - 2500 series- 24valve, w/500,000 miles. On my way from Pa. to Fl, the truck started losing power. I pulled into Kenley, N.C., at the cummins dlr. and was told I needed a lift pump. Bought the lift pump over the counter only to find out it was the wrong one and that I needed a in-tank pump. Left the truck there with my single car trailer and drove the car to Florida as I was pressed for time. I never had any problems before with this truck and I don't have a lot of money these days. When I go back with my car this week does anyone know of a cheap fix to get this thing back to Pa. Can I use an inline pump or do I have to use an in-tank pump...
Thanx.
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Old Aug 29, 2011 | 07:56 AM
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You would have better help posting this in the second gen forum:

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...train-f89.html

You can get an inline pump, but you'll have to bypass the in tank pump, as it is not a flow through design.
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Old Aug 29, 2011 | 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by madhat
You would have better help posting this in the second gen forum:

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...train-f89.html

You can get an inline pump, but you'll have to bypass the in tank pump, as it is not a flow through design.
I didn't think this had an in-line pump as it is still using the original lift pump above the starter and below the fuel filter. How would I bypass the in-tank pump?
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Old Aug 29, 2011 | 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by sr4440
the in-tank pumps didn't show up until 05. If you have a canister pump with 174K the very least I would do is carry a spare pump.
to check to see if you have a canister pump, look at the fuel filter housing and see if there is a black cylinder on the back of it.

Here's a pic



Joe
Joe,
I just went out and checked and it is indeed a canister type. I can't believe I have owned this truck for 8 1/2 years and always thought it had an in-tank pump. Anyway, thank you for setting me straight. I will replace it and keep the original as a spare.

Thanks again!
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Old Aug 29, 2011 | 05:51 PM
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You must change your fuel filter quite often. The only ones I've seen live a long life are ones that have had a new filter put on at least every 15K. Even that wasn't a guarantee that it would survive. I'd put the in tank pump in it.
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Old Aug 29, 2011 | 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by J BODY
You must change your fuel filter quite often. The only ones I've seen live a long life are ones that have had a new filter put on at least every 15K. Even that wasn't a guarantee that it would survive. I'd put the in tank pump in it.
Changed every 10k without fail along with oil and oil filter.
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Old Aug 30, 2011 | 10:27 PM
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The lift pump is not protected by the filter as the pump pushes the fuel to the filter.

Boss Hog I am surprised that your lift pump has lasted 174k miles, most have failed long before that. Mine was losing pressure before 80k miles.

I would stay away from the intank pump, if that fails on the road, major work to replace. You can go with a direct replacement, cheaper and very easy to replace. Geno's or NAPA sells a replacement. A better but more costly replacement would be a FASS or Airdog frame mounted pump.

I would also add a better water seperator and a 2 mic filter.
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