I assume you pumped all the old fluid out and vacuumed new in? I did mine and sucked new fluid through the whole system and haven't had it come back side. 500 miles per week, so I get some miles on it.

 

Thanks for the reply jmlcolorado. My granddaughter and I bled the brakes this morning and all seems good for now .

. . sort of. The pads are rubbing some to the point it takes a little more effort to spin the hub than I am

accustomed to. It eases off more after starting the engine. It seems to be isolated to the right caliper though.

She mashed real real hard on the peddle the first time and that is when the pads got stiffer but I could still

turn the hub. I guess the equivalent of a panic stop mash.
Now, you have me baffled on the "vacuuming the new fluid in". I have never heard of that but then I'm old school

pre-ABS "ehjukated". What in the world do you use to do that??? As far as mileage, I'm just the opposite of you.

If I have put 500 miles on the new brakes since last year I'm doing good. Being retired I don't get out the front

gate much at all anymore. It will sit two weeks at a time sometimes. It's possible that sitting so much could have

let moisture set in again. When we bled the system last year I ran a lot of fluid through it to flush it good. I

haven't rebuilt the rear yet but it's on the list. Don't know if that could effect the fronts in the way they are

doing. I know that if I have to get down hard on the brakes hard the right rear will roar at me. It passes

inspection so I guess it's OK.
Would sure like to know more about vacuuming the whole system. That sounds like a real good idea.

(I noticed my avatar and signature are gone and it has my truck description in the sig. It's a `99 dually 5.9, ind. susp. and all stock, 85k on it)

 

There is always the possibility that your rf replacement part is faulty. Was the replacement caliper new or rebuilt? It's rare but it does happen. If you still have warranty on it I say change it.

 

Forgot to mention that if your rear brakes are out of adjustment or wore out your fronts are working harder and that will add in allot of heat. Pull the rears down, inspect and/or replace before going back to the front.

 

Much thanks for yout help Totallyrad.
I think the cals are rebuilts. Drove it about three miles today and touched the hubs through to rim. The right was too hot to touch long right at the radius up to the rotors. The left was not as hot. The ambient temp down here has been in the mid 90s but that shouldn't cause the brakes to be untouchable I would think. Jacked the back up and pulled the drums (first time) The drums are in great shape and the shoes still have 3/16+ before the rivets. However, the drums were loaded with brake dust. More than I have ever seen in all my years of drum brake rebuilding. That could be part of the reason it may not be braking well in the rear??? I blew all the dust out plus blew off the brake plate and assembly. I'm just hoping my problem isn't the ABS controller. I checked the prices on those $$$$$$$. I am able to push the caliper pistons back with a piece of 2x4 so you may be right about a faulty caliper or maybe even the new hose has colapsed inside. As I recall, I ordered the right one online since my parts house didn't have the right one for it. If after bleeding the whole system this time doesn't fix the problem, I will start with the hose and move on to the caliper. I don't know if the combination/proportioning valve could be causing it either. Heck, even the MC could maybe be defective and not retracting far enough to release pressure??? I don't know if a bad booster pump can cause the MC to not retract either. I have the Dodge manual PDF on this truck but it doesn't have anything on this type of scenario so it looks like I'm at process of elimination starting with the right components as you suggested. I'll post back with the results of the full bleed but that won't happen until Monday when my granddaughter apprentice comes back.

OBTW, love your signature

 

Don't over reach for solutions. Work the basics first, that usually works. A bad master cylinder should affect both wheels, not just one. I replaced the rear calipers on my 04 and the next year the right one stuck, eat up the pads and cracked the rotor. I got a warranty replacement from O'Riley's but I had to buy a rotor and pads. Since you'll be changing the rotor anyway before you pull it remove the rubber hose, then see if you can easily push the caliper piston back. If you have to fight them too much, your problem probably ends there. If they move back easily, change the hose as well.

 

I think I'll start with opening the bleeder on the right to see if that releases the caliper more. If not then that should pin point the problem . . . I think. If it does then I'll disconnect the hose at frame. I'll just work up the circuit from there I guess. My rotor looks and feels fine so I think I'm good there. I think I caught it in time when that brake let go after I put the truck in gear. Over the years I've forgotten more than I've learned so please correct me if I'm wrong on the caliper bleed screw idea?? The toughest part for me right now at this age is remembering where I put that receipt.

 

Well, I looked in the coffee can we used to bleed the fronts two days ago and after everything had settled I noticed several shiny metal specks on bottom of can. I hope that's the caliper or at least MC. The Combination/proportioning valve is OK according to the test procedure the manual states. Bled the rears and that's where I called it quits because of the heat. Will re-bleed the fronts tomorrow. This time I will use separate cans for the two sides to see if it's isolated to one side. The rear fluid was dark so I'll let it settle then drain off real slow until I get it nearly empty then check for metal specks. If there too then it will hopefully be the MC.
Please Lord, don't let it be the ABS controller?

 

I think you're on the right track but a clear glass jar would be better. Don't forget to put a good coating of silver anti-seize on the bleeder.

 

Well, After backing the MC nuts off about 1/8" and it not letting the pads pull back more, I ruled out Power booster and MC. Going to pull the R caliper and take it back. I have noticed that when I spin the rotor that it is not as tight on one side as it is the other. I had them turned in October and haven't had to get down on the brakes but I may have annealed it causing it to warp after the rebuild. I did overheat the heck out of them the first time they got stuck. May pull it too and have them check it for trueness. I'll get some of that anti-seize because I snapped one on my old `70 Oldsmobile and all you can do then is buy another one and back then they cost a fortune but I lucked out at the junk yard. $10. I paid and ran.

 

I pulled the calipers, slid a bolt with a nut on it through the lower caliper bolt holes to use as a gauge. When I rotated the rotors I got about 3/64ths play (wobble) in them laterally. Bearings are adjusted right. I reckon I warped them somehow but don't know how I did. Time for new ones then see if that solves the overheat problem. My parts house guy told me when I had them turned in October that they were right at the limit and they do have a tendency to warp when turned down thinner. I assume that warped rotors can cause the brakes to drag????
My service manual states that if the power booster is bad it can cause the brakes to self apply but I wouldn't think that is my problem because I would notice the drag or smell the pads after any extended driving I think. When I did the booster check the only part I didn't notice was that the peddle didn't push back on my foot after it fell at engine start as supposed to . I'm posting the page from my service manual in hopes someone else interprets it different than me.
Oh how I miss my 57 Ford!

 

My parts guy says that a slight wobble in the rotors is pretty common. Said he can turn one true, shut the machine off and wait awhile then turn it back on and it will have a slight wobble. They tend to think it's the calipers too and told me to bring them in for exchange at no charge as the warranty is still good so I guess that's what I'll do. He is going to put the rotors on the lathe in the morning to double check them just to be sure.
Never in all my years have I had so much trouble with one brake system. Thanks "Big Brother!"

 

Took the right caliper back today and picked up the new one. Couldn't push the piston in on the old one even with the brake hose off of it. The rubber boot on it was coming out on one side so that may be where my problem was. My fluid doesn't flow fully clear but the truck is 15 years old so I guess a little discoloration is expected. Rotors were fine but he cleaned them up anyway at no charge. Will put it all back together tomorrow and see what happens.
Attaching a few pics of the dislodged rubber boot.
I'll report back.

 

Ok, after researching this problem for what seems an eternity, I have finally excepted the fact that the problem is moisture. This time I am going to start by bleeding the fronts before I connect the calipers to get as much trash out as I can then connect and bleed again.
Does anybody have any oppinions on DOT 4 and DOT 5 brake fluids?? As I heard, DOT 5 is a synthetic and you have to be sure to get ALL of the DOT 3 out of the system to prevent gelling. I think I was told that DOT 4 is less prone to absorbing moisture but don't know if you have to evacuate all of the 3.
I also am reading confusing bleeding procedures in my Haines. Haines states to turn engine off, discharge accumulator and bleed the usual way from there. I've been bleeding with the engine running. Was that wrong?
At the rate I've been going, I need to find my brake fluid by the 55 gal drum.


99, 3500 SLT, duals and ind. suspension.

 

Sorry to hear your having so much trouble with this but sounds like that caliper was stuck. With the bleeder open or brake hose off it should not be too difficult to retract the pistons in the caliper.
Hope that fixes it for ya.
A vehicle sitting not being used is its worst enemy, almost. You put 500 mi on last year?
Have to get that thing out and drive it. Make an excuse weekly to at least go run it 40-50 mi. Oh and take care of your fuel too.
If you're not using up a tank at least every month or 2 I'd keep the tank low and keep a dose of PS and maybe a little Algecide in it just for preventative maint.