Brake Pads
#1
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Brake Pads
G-Day All,
I am getting ready to replace my brake pads for the first time. I have looked at brake pads online and see all the different brands and types.
I pull a 33' 5th wheel toy hauler and wanted to get some feedback/input about installing stock pads or get the heavy duty towing pads.
I also get different opinions about turning the rotors, some say yes it has to done when i replace the pads and others saying it not needed.
Thx
I am getting ready to replace my brake pads for the first time. I have looked at brake pads online and see all the different brands and types.
I pull a 33' 5th wheel toy hauler and wanted to get some feedback/input about installing stock pads or get the heavy duty towing pads.
I also get different opinions about turning the rotors, some say yes it has to done when i replace the pads and others saying it not needed.
Thx
#2
Check out the "Squealing Pig" brake thread just an FYI.
I tow a 12k trailer. I used auto zone Duralast Gold brake pads and remanufactured calipers. Turning rotors was not necessary but it might be depending on how they look after you pull the brakes off.
I tow a 12k trailer. I used auto zone Duralast Gold brake pads and remanufactured calipers. Turning rotors was not necessary but it might be depending on how they look after you pull the brakes off.
#3
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Having gotten 50K out of the OEM pads, I didn't see any reason to change. If you go that route, Dodge offers both OEM and Value Line. I opted for OEM. I believe they resurfaced the rotors when the pads were replaced.
#4
I run Hawk Super Duty pads, because they're made for heavy towing.
I don't know if they're any better or worse than anything else out there.
They aren't quiet, and they're dusty, but they perform very well for me.
I tow a Cyclone 3950 fiver.
I don't know if they're any better or worse than anything else out there.
They aren't quiet, and they're dusty, but they perform very well for me.
I tow a Cyclone 3950 fiver.
#6
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Hawk Super Duty pads
L8r,.............dogger
#7
My stock brakes sucked, I also pull a 25' toyhauler , not big weight but still would push me through a red light, put on EBC yellow stuff pads front and rear stock rotors , Hugh difference , minimum pedal effort and stopping was not a issue anymore, my truck now has 80,000 miles and just replaced the yellows with 7000 greens (EBC) and there rotors for around 600$ , again brakes are as good or better then before , no brake dust like I got with the yellows.
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#8
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If you're planning on heavy duty towing, get pads designed for that purpose.
I don't tow more than about 5-6K#. I use Duralast gold pads, and they work better than the stock pads did, but with a little more dust. And they have a lifetime warrenty.
It is very important that you bed in new pads according to the instructions provided with the pads. If you do, you'll get the best performance.
During the bedding in process and during use, brake pad material is deposited into the metal of the rotor. During braking, you're getting brake pad against brake pad, and not as much brake pad against metal. That's what makes them work well.
For that reason, you need to resurface rotors when you change pads to a different type. Often times different pad materials are not compatible. You need to remove the thin layer of pad material and get down to fresh metal so you can bed the new pads in properly.
I don't tow more than about 5-6K#. I use Duralast gold pads, and they work better than the stock pads did, but with a little more dust. And they have a lifetime warrenty.
It is very important that you bed in new pads according to the instructions provided with the pads. If you do, you'll get the best performance.
During the bedding in process and during use, brake pad material is deposited into the metal of the rotor. During braking, you're getting brake pad against brake pad, and not as much brake pad against metal. That's what makes them work well.
For that reason, you need to resurface rotors when you change pads to a different type. Often times different pad materials are not compatible. You need to remove the thin layer of pad material and get down to fresh metal so you can bed the new pads in properly.
#9
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BRake Pads
Thanks everyone for your input. I currently have a 33' but looking at getting a 38' toyhauler and with that comes more weight. I can see I need to look at all the different types of pads. Do the slotted or rotors with holes cool better than sold rortrs?
#10
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Absolutely not!
Slots act like a cheese slicer. Each time the slot passes over the pad, it shaves off a fine layer of the pad. That's great when you're you're racing, and pounding the brakes lap after lap. Not so great when traveling down the highway.
In the olden days, hot brake pads would outgas. That layer of gas got between pad and the rotor, and decreased brake effectiveness. To compensate, racers drilled holes to release the gas. The downside of that is the rotors did not last as long, and quickly developed stress cracks. Also, by removing surface material, you're effectively making your rotors smaller. Also not a good thing.
The holes have nothing to do with cooling. If you need more cooling, you're much better off fabbing up some simple cooling ducts. Simple, inexpensive, last forever, and actually work.
Also, anything that disrupts the smooth surface of the rotors and pads are going to create more vibration and noise.
Holes, slots, and dimples are simply for bling, and nothing else.
Your best rotors for heavy duty application is a solid surface, with directional cooling vanes, and a lifetime warranty.
You might consider having them cryogenically treated to increase longevity. I don't think you'll save any money that way, but if you put in a lot of towing miles every year, it might save you some down time.
Slots act like a cheese slicer. Each time the slot passes over the pad, it shaves off a fine layer of the pad. That's great when you're you're racing, and pounding the brakes lap after lap. Not so great when traveling down the highway.
In the olden days, hot brake pads would outgas. That layer of gas got between pad and the rotor, and decreased brake effectiveness. To compensate, racers drilled holes to release the gas. The downside of that is the rotors did not last as long, and quickly developed stress cracks. Also, by removing surface material, you're effectively making your rotors smaller. Also not a good thing.
The holes have nothing to do with cooling. If you need more cooling, you're much better off fabbing up some simple cooling ducts. Simple, inexpensive, last forever, and actually work.
Also, anything that disrupts the smooth surface of the rotors and pads are going to create more vibration and noise.
Holes, slots, and dimples are simply for bling, and nothing else.
Your best rotors for heavy duty application is a solid surface, with directional cooling vanes, and a lifetime warranty.
You might consider having them cryogenically treated to increase longevity. I don't think you'll save any money that way, but if you put in a lot of towing miles every year, it might save you some down time.
#12
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Absolutely not!
Slots act like a cheese slicer. Each time the slot passes over the pad, it shaves off a fine layer of the pad. That's great when you're you're racing, and pounding the brakes lap after lap. Not so great when traveling down the highway.
In the olden days, hot brake pads would outgas. That layer of gas got between pad and the rotor, and decreased brake effectiveness. To compensate, racers drilled holes to release the gas. The downside of that is the rotors did not last as long, and quickly developed stress cracks. Also, by removing surface material, you're effectively making your rotors smaller. Also not a good thing.
The holes have nothing to do with cooling. If you need more cooling, you're much better off fabbing up some simple cooling ducts. Simple, inexpensive, last forever, and actually work.
Also, anything that disrupts the smooth surface of the rotors and pads are going to create more vibration and noise.
Holes, slots, and dimples are simply for bling, and nothing else.
Your best rotors for heavy duty application is a solid surface, with directional cooling vanes, and a lifetime warranty.
You might consider having them cryogenically treated to increase longevity. I don't think you'll save any money that way, but if you put in a lot of towing miles every year, it might save you some down time.
Slots act like a cheese slicer. Each time the slot passes over the pad, it shaves off a fine layer of the pad. That's great when you're you're racing, and pounding the brakes lap after lap. Not so great when traveling down the highway.
In the olden days, hot brake pads would outgas. That layer of gas got between pad and the rotor, and decreased brake effectiveness. To compensate, racers drilled holes to release the gas. The downside of that is the rotors did not last as long, and quickly developed stress cracks. Also, by removing surface material, you're effectively making your rotors smaller. Also not a good thing.
The holes have nothing to do with cooling. If you need more cooling, you're much better off fabbing up some simple cooling ducts. Simple, inexpensive, last forever, and actually work.
Also, anything that disrupts the smooth surface of the rotors and pads are going to create more vibration and noise.
Holes, slots, and dimples are simply for bling, and nothing else.
Your best rotors for heavy duty application is a solid surface, with directional cooling vanes, and a lifetime warranty.
You might consider having them cryogenically treated to increase longevity. I don't think you'll save any money that way, but if you put in a lot of towing miles every year, it might save you some down time.
I can't even count the number of times I have explained this to people.
#13
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Well I am quite amazed I have used ebc slotted and dimpled for years and with that I have found braking has improved drastically. Where before i would get three years and brake fade on stock pads to six years and improved braking on slotted, as one can say prof is in doing!!!!!!!! bin there done that
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The trade off is lots of dust and shortened pad life.
This is a picture of the brakes on the front of my race car. Notice there are no holes or dimples. Only the slots.
For additional cooling, I added these ducts. And this made a huge difference. Especially towards the end of the race. If your brakes are overheating, this is what you should do. Inexpensive, effective, easy to do, and lasts forever.