RobG

This is getting ridiculous. My truck just blew yet another driveshaft carrier bearing... that bearing where the driveshaft flexes in the middle.

The first one blew in December of 2011. The second one blew in March of 2015. Now this one just went today.

Both of the previous times have cost me around $700, as I had to pay somebody to fix it. I'm wondering if there's anything I can do this time to make it last longer?

I have a suspicion that the culprit is having a manual transmission and a grabby clutch. It's a South Bend Con-OFE that has been in there since mid 2009.

Anybody else having this problem? I know I"m not the only person with this truck configuration and very likely not the only one with this clutch. I've been thinking about switching to one of the newer dual disc clutches from South Bend in order get rid of some of the grabbiness, but that's $1600 or more.

Any (constructive) suggestions appreciated.

Rob

NJTman

Hey Rob,

I don't have your year truck, but the 1st gen dodge had a "recall" of sorts through a TSB regarding the carrier bearing. I think it was a vibration issue, but non the less, it required some "shims" to drop the carrier assembly downwards, to relieve the stress on the shaft angle due to the lowered position of the rearward most u Joint. This was a minor, relatively easy fix, and I can only assume (without ever being under your truck) that driveline / driveshaft angle may or may not have something to do with it.

I would also only use a Mopar carrier bearing as a replacement. Aftermarket carriers have failed on me (the rubber isolator) on my ride... twice.

Busboy

I agree about shimming the bearing down to take out some of the angle, might also want to check the rear transmission mount in case the whole thing is moving around.

RobG

Great ideas, thank you! I'll have to see where I can find a deal on a new Mopar carrier. Heck, I wonder if my driveshaft is shot.

What's the best way to shim it? Just add some washers, and maybe longer bolts? How far should I go?

Busboy

I would try 1/2 inch, two pieces of 1/4 inch x2 inch flat steel would work, it would give good support.

NJTman

I used some flat stock to drop it down 1/2" steel which I drilled a hole through so as what was said before, the carrier sits on something solid. You'll need one shim per side, if it's the same as mine. Probably easier to use two pieces of 1/4" on each side, which would also allow you to have greater options.

I doubt your driveshaft is shot, per se. The U joints can go bad, and the slip joint can go bad, but they're easily replaced by a local driveshaft company. I used to replace my own U joints in the past, but since I had the local guys do it (I pulled the shaft out, and dropped it off), it's been much better and less issue, because they "re balance" the shaft once they put the new parts in.

I will only use Spicer NON greasable units from now on. Eventually they will wear out, but I've had nothing but problems with the after market greasable units, as the seals fail, and no matter how many times you grease them up, they loose all their grease from centrifugal force. The non greaseable ones have much more rigid, tighter fitting seals, which don't allow the grease to escape. I only have to grease my slide joint in the shaft when I'm under there.

RobG

Here's a pic of the carnage...



It looks like the bearing is still on the driveshaft, but whatever holds it all in place is beyond shot.

Rob

Busboy

Don't forget to check that rear transmission mount.

RobG

I checked it yesterday... it appears to be fine. Visually it looks completely intact. Attempting to move the tranny around didn't do much. I suppose I could put a jack under the tranny and try to lift it up.

Part of me wonders if I should just replace the mount at the same time.

Anybody happen to have the Mopar part number for the driveshaft bearing, and even the trans mount (for a G56)? I've been unable to find the driveshaft bearing at all on any of the online Mopar parts sites.

Danderson

Discount Mopar source.
https://www.moparpartsamerica.com/pa...10&searchText=
Tom Woods makes a tough precision driveshaft.
http://www.4xshaft.com/

anpconnors

I have an auto and ditched the two piece drive shaft and carrier bearing. Maybe another manual transmission user can chime in if a one piece is doable.

RobG

I thought about it, but I wonder if it'd eat up my pinion bearings in the differential.

Back when I had a US Gear Overdrive on my 2001 6sp truck, I had a one-piece driveshaft, becuase it was a full 12" shorter than the regular one, so they didn't see the point of retaining the two-piece unit.

BTW I found that parts website, and yeah, nowhere in that list that I can find is the center bearing. There's no listing for regular Drive Shaft or any of that.

gcssr

Ebay ads not allowed on DTR
might try here

400HP

Look up Inland Empire Driveline. They used to carry HD center bearings for our trucks with a polyurethane support.

RobG

Took me forever to order parts but they're finally here. I got an OEM rear tranny mount and carrier bearing. I just now saw the reply about the Inland Empire Driveline, so since I haven't yet put the OEM one on yet, I'll wait and see what they say. I may get one from them. In no huge hurry to get the truck moving again so I can wait.

Anyway... I replaced the rear trans mount today. The original one was fine. However... if you look at the photo I posted back in #7, the bearing is waaay past where it ought to be, don't you think? I'm not sure if those bearings can be put on wrong, but maybe?