I'll post the question and then search for old threads. What's the latest consensus on the stuff?? Can I run it in my '03 SO Cali truck?? Will it clog filters? Void factory 100k warranty?? Wreck my injectors?? I'm in the panhandle area for another month or so and even here, I get conflicting information. The less than knowledgeable dealer said it's bad for my injectors but did say the blue fuel '07's are good with it...

I'm a day or two from trying it for the first time and if all goes well, I'll add a 100gallon bed tank and roll with it.

 

it will clog your filters a bit more then regular ULSD, so you're going to want to change your filters on a 5k interval vs. 10k or whatever your maintenance is now

 

Be careful saying that, I've been running it for the last 4 years now and have NEVER had a clogged filter, nor have I accelerated my fuel filter maintenance interval. Looking for the dead horse icon. It really depends on the quality of fuel you use - bio or otherwise; as well as the general cleanliness of your fuel system prior to running Bio. Bio can act as a solvent and thereby loosen up any pre-existing dirt and thereby filling up the filter.

For ZZs, there's a bio-diesel forum here at DTR as sub-forum under the General Diesel forum.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...play.php?f=110

If you look in your manual, there should be a note on what the % of Bio you can run. I think mine said 5%; but you've got a CA model so that number may not be valid for you.

FWIW, I've run up to B60'ish Soy-based Bio without issue (the fuel is clear and bright yellow). But after looking at some of the resturaunt oil Bio that I've poured into my truck (brown, thick, lumpy) I wouldn't run high concentrations of that stuff (goo) in my truck. I bought it at a fuel station, so I "presume" its better than something "homemade". My assessment isn't scientific in the least, but its certainly something to consider.

I wouldn't have ever noticed that lumpy goo if I didn't put that fuel into a 5 gallon jug to be used later - it was when I poured it into the truck did I notice its quality.

as always, ymmv.

 

The stuff I have access to is B100 straight from a station in Oklahoma. They are currently expanding and will soon be adding another refinery in the Guyman area. I'm all for it, even if I have to change something. I just don't want to be halfway into a 1300 mile trip when I discover I should have added a $100 part somewhere...

 

Put that tank in the bed.

If it makes you feel better, put in 15-20 gallons of bio, and top it off with #2.

The thing with bio is that it has a high gel point; given that winter is around the corner for some areas, if you fill that large tank with bio in a warm area, and drive north to somewhere its cold and shut her down, make sure you dilute it with some real fuel so it doesn't gel on you - freezing you in your tracks.

 

Ditto on the high gel point.

I've been making my own home brew for a couple years now. Never any problems, but we make every effort to make a quality fuel. The key is finding a consistent supply.

I normally quit making it by mid November, and just stock pile for the winter. As soon as it warms up we start up again.

I've found that I typically have to change the filter within 3 K mi after going back to home brew, but never have to change the filter again untill the next interval...so I just time it such that I'm near the end of a interval on a existing filter.

 

I run B20 in my ride and love it. I did not have to change the filter due to it being clogged, but I did change it after 1k mi just to see what it looked like. The fuel was gold colored and the filter looked brand new. I only had 1500mi on the truck before going to bio....I only run Bio that has the ATSM standard. The pump that I get it from is B100, so I generally put 7gal of B100 and 20gal of #2 to get between B20 and B30. Have never looked back, my motor is happier with Bio than it every was with USLD with all the additives that I could throw at it. The power is the same and the exhaust is "Sweet" smelling....

 

Thanks guys

 

according to cummins the 5% stuff is fine but anything more than that is not recommended and can void your warranty. funny thing is that i called my dealer and they claimed any biodiesel use would void my warranty but changed that after being told about cummins statement about the 5%.

 

We ran some B20 Sun Bio at an Exxon fuel station in Durango, CO in my Jeep. My Jeep loved it, lots quieter, peppier, and a little be better mpg. I got some of that B20 on my hands filling the tank, nice and greasy. I wish we had bio diesel around my parts, my dodge would love it.

 

OK, so I'm thinking I should think of it more as an additive or mix than actually running on pure B100. All the cleaning and lubricity info sounds good. I guess I'll also find out how clean my fuel system is. Guess if I put it in my boat, I'll stay close to home and carry filters.

Thanks again.

 

B20 is now the warrantied level.

 

B20 is only approved for Fleet and Goverment trucks. Dodge still only approves the use of B-5 in our engines as of 9/2007 when I asked Dodge. You can use what ever you want just keep it at or below B5 if you have to take it in for any warranty work.

 

I also thought the BTU potential for the Bio was less than #2. Therefore, you would see a decrease in performance. I know that for old #2 it is 115,000 BTU, and I remember Bio being about 10,000 BTU less than that... Also good info on the Gelling, and I've had it happen with #2. Not fun, and of course, when it does, you are stuck on the side of the road, freezing, waiting for the tow truck.... Awesome!

 

I run the b100 all the time . Local gas station carries it. 50 cents less a gallon. It is sopposed to lube better. Never had any problem.