Should have my new reman engine in a couple of weeks, and just wondering what peeps have found for the best results for a break in procedure. Thanks.

 

Drive it like the book says for the break in period, then put a heavy trailer behind it and haul tail.

 

i'll expand on Marks comment, early into it's life the little spaces between most of the parts is pretty small, until those spaces loosen up a little the factory sets do's and don'ts. After that it's time to break in the rings on the pistons, the only way to do that correctly is to haul some heaving down the freeway, what that does it force the rings against the cylinder wall by loading the motor down and bringing the temps up. don't be easy on it either, run it hard, change the oil and filter when you should, run the crap out of it.

 

However, even by doing this, most motors still have the crosshatching on the cylinder walls even after 100k miles. Point being, just take care of it, but treat it like a truck.

What caused the first motor to fail? I seem to remember something about it, but I'm drawing a blank...

 

I thought the mfr break-in policy was for the rear end, not so much the engine.

 

Either load 2500 Lbs in the bed or hook up to a 4K or heaver trailer,drive it non stop (except to get fuel and food) one way for a minimum of 36 hours, take a break, change oil & filter then do the same on a return trip and your rings should be seated.

 

I believe the Cummins site says to run it with a load right off the bat, avoid lugging the engine and keep the fluids topped off.

I believe the Dodge no towing for first 500 and slow towing in the next 500 is for the ring and pinion.

 

Owners manual only says for rear end. I have heard that cummins puts all the engines on a bench and runs the dog off them before they even make it into your new truck. I always try to stay under 2,000 RPMs for the first 500 miles, change the oil at 1,000 miles and Hook up to a large load and hit the road.

 

So, if I'm hearing most ya all correctly, take it easy for the first 500 miles then run it hard?

 

Pretty much: Avoid low rpms with any load. avoid idling as much as possible for the first 500. Try to vary your rpms for the first 500. Don't tow heavy for the first 500. I like to get the original oil and filter out after about 500, and drain her hot.

Then put her to work pullin like the mule she is!

 

If there is a problem I want it to raise it's werry head quick....LOL.... Go tow with it and don't worry about it. Drive it like you normally would without lugging it. Better to have the RPM's up.

 

I agree with the above except for limiting RPM's. You should use the whole RPM range during break in. Not stabbing the throttle up to red line, but definitely get it there.

 

Bingo.

Breaking in the engine should be done with maximum possible load as early as possible.

When I break in an engine in a test cell, it gets warmed up and then it gets 100% throttle, and the dyno lugs it down from redline until just above idle.

Then I look at the data to make nothing's hurt, then do it all again.

Then again.

After three complete (and drawn out-- these take over 30min) full load runs like this, the engine is considered broken in.


I'd personally rather risk hurting the differential than risk an excessively easy break-in on the engine. Drive 100 miles, change both the diff fluids and the engine oil, then run it like a rented hauler.

<<<DO NOT BABY YOUR ENGINE WHEN ITS NEW>>>

(and don't abuse it either by forgoing warmups, etc)

 

That's a good point, Hohn.

Good warm ups, (no hard load until the engine is at op temp) and good cool downs are very important.

The quality of your fuel and fluids are also very important.

I think that my truck has been run hard once or twice in the 6 years that I've owned it before it was at op temp... and those cases were emergent. Ya just have to treat it right, it will treat you right.