Base line readings on tran temp, boost, and pyro
Base line readings on tran temp, boost, and pyro
FINALLY got my gauges installed, as above, on a stock 05. Unloaded tranny temp was about 120*, boost under acceleration went up to about 28# then down to about 25#, and pyro up to 1250* then would start to drop offto 1050 or so(under acceleration).
I plan on putting a Smart Sr in, and will start towing a 10000# 5th wheel this summer, What should I be watching for, especially with the programmer?
How about towing, what are temps that are toooo high for towing? THanks for any info you guys can share with me.
I plan on putting a Smart Sr in, and will start towing a 10000# 5th wheel this summer, What should I be watching for, especially with the programmer?
How about towing, what are temps that are toooo high for towing? THanks for any info you guys can share with me.
Good question,
I would only go above 1300 for short durations. I would think you could run 1000 all day long.
I used to have a Smarty jr. and it really kept the temps down. Now I have the Sr. but haven't towed with it yet. I'm curious to know how the temps will be on level 1 or 3.
I would only go above 1300 for short durations. I would think you could run 1000 all day long.
I used to have a Smarty jr. and it really kept the temps down. Now I have the Sr. but haven't towed with it yet. I'm curious to know how the temps will be on level 1 or 3.
I keep the Pyro under 1300* and strive to keep the torque converter locked to keep transmission (pan) temperatures under 200.
Unless its a feature just of my BD valve body, you can force a downshift to 3rd when in Tow/Haul mode by toggling it off and on again. I like that better than applying a bunch more throttle pressure to get it kicked down.
You might consider adding a double deep transmission pan for cooling and a revised valve body or shift kit for better shifting and increased line pressure to the TQ for better lockup.
I tow a 10K pound bumper pull trailer and regret that there's no O/D lockout on the 2005. While dodge can reprogram the ECU to turn the Tow/Haul into an O/D lockout, I prefer the revised shifting behavior T/H provides more than an O/D lockout. BD Power has a $225 module that allows the T/H switch to do both, lock out O/D, and toggle the revised shift behavior. I'm on the fence about spending the money.
Unless its a feature just of my BD valve body, you can force a downshift to 3rd when in Tow/Haul mode by toggling it off and on again. I like that better than applying a bunch more throttle pressure to get it kicked down.
You might consider adding a double deep transmission pan for cooling and a revised valve body or shift kit for better shifting and increased line pressure to the TQ for better lockup.
I tow a 10K pound bumper pull trailer and regret that there's no O/D lockout on the 2005. While dodge can reprogram the ECU to turn the Tow/Haul into an O/D lockout, I prefer the revised shifting behavior T/H provides more than an O/D lockout. BD Power has a $225 module that allows the T/H switch to do both, lock out O/D, and toggle the revised shift behavior. I'm on the fence about spending the money.
Trans hot line: 160-190, depending on ambient temps. 160 when <70F; 190 when >110F
Trans Pan: 140-180, depending on how much sitting in traffic.
Boost: ~22psi max sustained, pulling hill w/ load. Spike to ~28 on unloaded acceleration.
Pyro: Depends on load. 4th gear pulling a hill in 100F weather, and camper loaded will give ~1400F; drop to 3rd and 10-20 seconds later, temp will drop to ~1200F. Empty, depends on go pedal.
HTH
Tony
Trans Pan: 140-180, depending on how much sitting in traffic.
Boost: ~22psi max sustained, pulling hill w/ load. Spike to ~28 on unloaded acceleration.
Pyro: Depends on load. 4th gear pulling a hill in 100F weather, and camper loaded will give ~1400F; drop to 3rd and 10-20 seconds later, temp will drop to ~1200F. Empty, depends on go pedal.

HTH
Tony
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