bad front axle u-joint leads to...
time to get the regional manager involved.
That green-colored rust looks nasty though.. reminds me of the insides of the water passges on a ocean-going boat's engine with raw water cooling after year or 2.
That green-colored rust looks nasty though.. reminds me of the insides of the water passges on a ocean-going boat's engine with raw water cooling after year or 2.
my axle u-joint is gone too. which one on your truck broke? both? or just 1? mine was the driver side. it's been clicking for like 10,000 miles now and i just ordered one from dodgeparts for 55 bucks.
anyway, i assume they were supposed to be giving you entire axle shaft assembly's for FREE because the u-joints are on back order? what is the $1400 break down?
anyway, i assume they were supposed to be giving you entire axle shaft assembly's for FREE because the u-joints are on back order? what is the $1400 break down?
driver's side.
it never clicked, just got an awful squeal. sounded like a sparrow in the axle if the wheel was turned even a little. then as it got worse it started binding really bad.
yeah they ordered shafts to get the part quicker because of the BO.
I didn't even ask for the breakdown. was just disgusted. I know the hub and bearing assy. list for $220 ea. So there was $440. funny thing is they never even removed the passenger tire, they just assumed and got a nice long list. It just doesn't seem like the rotors, brake pads and some labor would be another $1000. They were throwing in the labor for the rotors and hub and bearing assy free since they had to be removed anywho. i caught them in several lies. But after talking to the GM they finally agreed to give me new rotors.
it never clicked, just got an awful squeal. sounded like a sparrow in the axle if the wheel was turned even a little. then as it got worse it started binding really bad.
yeah they ordered shafts to get the part quicker because of the BO.
I didn't even ask for the breakdown. was just disgusted. I know the hub and bearing assy. list for $220 ea. So there was $440. funny thing is they never even removed the passenger tire, they just assumed and got a nice long list. It just doesn't seem like the rotors, brake pads and some labor would be another $1000. They were throwing in the labor for the rotors and hub and bearing assy free since they had to be removed anywho. i caught them in several lies. But after talking to the GM they finally agreed to give me new rotors.
Rotor looks like it was in good shape before the mechanic attacked it!!
As long as the rotor is not warped and within spec there is no need to turn it when not replacing the pads and most times even when replacing the pads.
BTW turning rotors to correct for warping is usually a waste of time.
My rotors look worse than that after 6 months of driving up here.
If the mechanic working on your vehicle doesnt really care then it could be a 20 Star dealer and it wouldn't make a bit of difference.
I hate butchers.......
Jason
As long as the rotor is not warped and within spec there is no need to turn it when not replacing the pads and most times even when replacing the pads.
BTW turning rotors to correct for warping is usually a waste of time.
My rotors look worse than that after 6 months of driving up here.
If the mechanic working on your vehicle doesnt really care then it could be a 20 Star dealer and it wouldn't make a bit of difference.
I hate butchers.......
Jason
Wow, that dealer really did a number on those rotors! Also check out this TSB for the brakes on our rigs. DC procedure is to turn the rotors while they are still on the truck with an on-car brake lathe.
http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2003/05-008-03.htm
I would definitely get the dealer to replace all the parts they destroyed.
http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2003/05-008-03.htm
I would definitely get the dealer to replace all the parts they destroyed.
First off, I wonder if the 5 star rating determines how good the dealer is at screwing you, not helping you. Second off, if they broke it, I'd demand (nicely at first and then rudely if that didn't work) that they fix it at their cost. Third, I'd make sure to have the mechanic that beat on my rotors with a hammer and then said they were bad fired. Fourth, I'd call DC direct and complain. And then perhaps the Better Business Bureau. And then if they still won't fix it, I'd have my attorney call them. It's horse crap that they want you to fix several parts that they broke. I'd be especially PO'ed if they just turned those rotors and put them back on the truck (but you said they are giving you new one's (which I would verify before I ever got in the truck to drive off) so that's cool). It's sad that there are dealers out there that would do this to their customers. I know if I did business this way, I'd have no one. How come certain places can get away with this kind of behavior and treatment and still stay in business. And my mom and dad wonder why I don't take my truck to the dealer to have service done on it.
I'm taking it to a different dealer, in a few minutes. I normally do as much as I can myself, but we're in the process of moving and i have already taken almost all my tools to the new house. ANd in this situation I was willing to just pay the $100 deduct and have a seat for a little bit. If this dealer can't get the hub and bearing assy off, I'll just do the repair myself after we move. Or take it to a northern dealer that has actually seen rust before...
Warning to all in the north and coastal areas:
It looks to me that the dust sheild is what is causing the hub and bearing assembly to be basically welded to the knuckle. if you have the time or are in there already, take it off and slather a bunch of anti seize between those surfaces.
The previous dealer is HANDING me new rotors.
Warning to all in the north and coastal areas:
It looks to me that the dust sheild is what is causing the hub and bearing assembly to be basically welded to the knuckle. if you have the time or are in there already, take it off and slather a bunch of anti seize between those surfaces.
The previous dealer is HANDING me new rotors.
update:
got new rotors from damaging dealer.
New dealer had it all day Friday, Saturday, Sunday, Monday, with no communication at all. I went in Tuesday morning to see what was up. They said they were unwilling to work on it due to what the rotors looked like and since the previous dealer had begun the work and ordered warrenty parts
So after pulling the tires they left it sit for a few days...
I don't understand this.
I called DC and they couldn't care any less. Their response is that dealers are individually owned and they don't have to do the repairs
I was VERY polite and just simply asked for help in the matter. I have been driving DC for over 13 years, 10 different vehicles, this will be the last of their products I EVER buy. And it's not the $55 part, it IS that DC doesn't care at all about keeping a customer happy or making sure they are taken care of under warrenty.
I love the truck, but I won't take this crap anymore.
got new rotors from damaging dealer.
New dealer had it all day Friday, Saturday, Sunday, Monday, with no communication at all. I went in Tuesday morning to see what was up. They said they were unwilling to work on it due to what the rotors looked like and since the previous dealer had begun the work and ordered warrenty parts
So after pulling the tires they left it sit for a few days...I don't understand this.
I called DC and they couldn't care any less. Their response is that dealers are individually owned and they don't have to do the repairs
I was VERY polite and just simply asked for help in the matter. I have been driving DC for over 13 years, 10 different vehicles, this will be the last of their products I EVER buy. And it's not the $55 part, it IS that DC doesn't care at all about keeping a customer happy or making sure they are taken care of under warrenty.
I love the truck, but I won't take this crap anymore.
I just replaced the ball joints, rotors, brake pads, u-joints, and axle seals, along with the hub bearings. EXPENSIVE deal, but I lived in NY and the salt and crude fused the hubs to the knuckle, if you use any type of puller you risk seperating the hub bearings. The only way to get this done without separating them is that socket trick. There are posts about, I cannot remember all of the details. Where did you move to? Boy, the underside of your truck looks clean compared to mine!!
Your rotors looked like they were still serviceable to me. Glad to hear they gave you new ones!! I had a PSD and FORD treated me the same way, so keep the Dodge, they are all the same.
Your rotors looked like they were still serviceable to me. Glad to hear they gave you new ones!! I had a PSD and FORD treated me the same way, so keep the Dodge, they are all the same.
I think it is the cheap dust shield that disintegrates and weld the two together with rust. I don't think the underside looks bad either. but I'm in the south now and they don't see this stuff everyday, so when they have to deal with it they get angry and lazy.
Mcmopar, we lived in N of Pittsburgh for a full winter after buying the truck. Then moved to Charlotte, but made 4 or so trips to PA thoughout this last winter and visited the OBX quite a few times. Now we're in the process of moving to Richmond,VA.
I'll do a search for the socket trick, Thanks
I'll do a search for the socket trick, Thanks
The Outer Banks= Nags Head, Kill Devil Hills, Kitty Hawk, Duck, Southern Shores, etc.
http://maps.yahoo.com/maps_result?ed...w=1&name=&qty=
The wifes new job is the reason for the move again. I'm happy to be getting out of Charlotte! We'll be on 5 acres, 30 minutes west of Richmond
http://maps.yahoo.com/maps_result?ed...w=1&name=&qty=
The wifes new job is the reason for the move again. I'm happy to be getting out of Charlotte! We'll be on 5 acres, 30 minutes west of Richmond


