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bad front axle u-joint leads to...

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Old Jul 30, 2004 | 11:02 AM
  #31  
Mcmopar's Avatar
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From: Raleigh, NC
My move from new york had one, and only one bad thing, I went from seclusion to subdivision!! But the rest of the pluses ofset that until I can afford to buy some more land! Thanks for the OBX clarification. Good luck up in VA.
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Old Jul 31, 2004 | 12:13 PM
  #32  
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From: Sandy Hook, VA
we have been living on .22 acre for almost 1.5 years I hate it and will never do it again. I hate walking out the back door into what is basically a community back yard. My son will have room to ride his quad, see nature, and I'll be able to park my trailer in the driveway, work on my autos at home without getting a HOA letter in the mail.
Thanks for the well wishes, I appreciate it.

Dieseldude, will do, that sounds good. I don't know how far you are from Goochland, but that's where we'll be. It'll be nice to meet some Cummins guys, nothing but strokes around Charlotte
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Old Aug 7, 2004 | 12:36 AM
  #33  
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From: Central VT
Re: bad front axle u-joint leads to...

Originally posted by Rob_OBX
took the truck in for a bad axle u-joint and they're on nat. backorder. So they order me whole axle shaft assemblys. I sit in the waiting room for over 3 hours and then the service writer comes into the waiting room and tells me that while they were trying to remove the hub and bearing assembly with a puller, bearings fell out They were going to have to look into it to see if it was covered, because the DC system was down right now. then asked me if I had someone that could come pick me up, the phone is over there (ok, you break my truck, don't have the parts and I have to find my own way home...)
So I get a call after being home for a few hours and they tell me that due to corrosion from salt water( )they will not cover the bearing assembly, my rotors are pitted about half way through, and I need new brakes, they are about 70% gone. Total for all above repairs, over $1400!!!!

I got 69,889 miles on my brakes to this point, and they are about 70% gone...This means I have about 30,000 miles left on them, but they want me to change them out now while they are in there.

DC says it's between me and them.



I am fuming to say the least
which part is the "hub and bearing assembly" ?

i am trying to replace my u-joint here too.

i have
a) removed the caliper bracket
b) removed the 4 bolts behind the rotor
c) removed the cotter pin and big 44 MM nut inside the rotor

used rubber mallet (NOT SLEDGE like the dumb dealership above) NOTHING is budging... it is frozen rusted solid??? i was thinking of going at the rotor with a mapp torch??? any suggestions?
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Old Aug 7, 2004 | 04:05 AM
  #34  
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From: Ila georgia
Well the ones I've seen stuck it kinda took a BIG HAMMER.
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Old Aug 7, 2004 | 09:03 AM
  #35  
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I've been down this path too and it's not fun. I used to live up north and replacing rotors on the 4x4's often turned into the same rant I see here. After it happened a few times we finally realized that we had to throw the "worst case scenario" estimate in for repairs that required the hub to be removed.
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Old Aug 7, 2004 | 09:35 AM
  #36  
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From: Dayton, OH
Stories like this are why I stay as far away from the dealership as possible. Rob, I am genuinely sorry that you're being treated this way. Here is a link to a site that has a suggestion for getting the rotors off. Perhaps this is the "socket trick" that was referred to?? Best of luck...

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/BrakeRotors.html
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Old Aug 7, 2004 | 03:44 PM
  #37  
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From: Central VT
Originally posted by Mcmopar
I just replaced the ball joints, rotors, brake pads, u-joints, and axle seals, along with the hub bearings. EXPENSIVE deal, but I lived in NY and the salt and crude fused the hubs to the knuckle, if you use any type of puller you risk seperating the hub bearings. The only way to get this done without separating them is that socket trick. There are posts about, I cannot remember all of the details. Where did you move to? Boy, the underside of your truck looks clean compared to mine!! Your rotors looked like they were still serviceable to me. Glad to hear they gave you new ones!! I had a PSD and FORD treated me the same way, so keep the Dodge, they are all the same.
What is the socket trick?
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Old Aug 10, 2004 | 08:03 AM
  #38  
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From: Raleigh, NC
There have been many posts about it, I have never done it, and forgot about it until I ruined my hubs. The short story from my "marginal memory" is you put a large socket between the backside of the hub and I think the axle tube and then turn the steering wheel, and it forces the hub out without seperating the assembly.

Do a search, this is only from memory and I have personally never done it.
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Old Aug 21, 2004 | 05:24 PM
  #39  
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From: Central VT
Originally posted by Scubasteve

The tech should also know that if you are going to use a puller to remove the front wheel bearings you should leave the spindle nut intact so the bearings dont split.
can someone please tell me how leaving the axle shaft nut on would cause the bearings to not split?

the puller i am using pushes on the axle shaft and pulls on the wheel studs... so if the nut is in tact then you are going to do absolutely nothing???

is this a different puller tool that you are using?

i will have a bunch of pictures frrom my adventures today.

i used a puller and it pulled the rotor off with HALF of the hub bearing. the other half stayed on the knucle and had to be brutally mutilated to get off and will have to be replaced ($260). all this for a $50 u-joint.... perhaps DC should invest in some anti-sieze?????
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Old Aug 21, 2004 | 06:11 PM
  #40  
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From: Central VT
Puller tool pushes on half shaft and pulls on wheel studs...


Pulled off half the hub bearing and rotor all together... It was supposed to pull the entire hub bearing together...



Rotor and half of the hub bearing assembly...



The part that stuck to the knuckle had to be literally pounded off... BTW my next door neighbor is a dodge mechanic and he did the dirty work...



Clean knuckle finally...



Rest of hub bearing pounded out of the rotor... at least I don't have to buy a new rotor too right???

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