Since my crate engine came dry, does it matter what antifreeze I use as long as I don't mix the wrong types together?

I filled it with the regular green stuff and distilled water from my autoparts store for running it on the stand.

I know the factory calls for something specific but does it really matter if I choose to use something else only?

 

It takes HOAT approved antifreeze. Your most likely to find it at AutoZone made by ZEREX. I don't know if it matters or not but it may.

 

Am I safe to just use the green stuff and change it when necessary or is there a scientific reason why a diesel would need the HOAT approved antifreeze?

 

Just read thru this...

http://www.valvoline.com/carcare/art...cid=2&scccid=1

The old green stuff is IAT, dexcool is OAT (not compatable with anything), and then there is HOAT. It doesn't say if HOAT is compatable with IAT. If it is, when I drain what I have, I will just refill with some HOAT.

Anyone know if HOAT antifreeze is compatible with the IAT stuff?

 

I was told I could use the green stuff or the hoat stuff but DO NOT MIX THE TWO. The two are not compatible and when mixed will cause more of a corrosive action. I have the green stuff in my 03 right now but I could not find any hoat . No problems just have to change it more often the life is no where near as long as the hoat stuff or just flush it out and put the hoat stuff back in.

 

be carefull of what you buy, the Zerex I looked at said in the fine print not compatible with HOAT systems but OAT systems only.

 

I think its more of a silicone based antifreeze (hoat)

 

From a thread long gone, I thought it was primarily a water pump lube issue with the HOAT. I am probably wrong.

 

i would go with evans- it is waterless and will last a life time!!

 

I just switched mine out to plain coolant. As long as the two kinds do not get mixed you should be good. Really to me antifreeze is antifreeze. Just with the Green you have to change it more often and check the addatives with fleetguard strips mor often than some other brands.

 

IIRC doesn't the HOAT help prevent cavatation? If I am wrong someone with knowledge of this please correct me.

Cavatation can damage the cylinder walls from the cooling side. The cylinder will expand rapidly and then return so rapidely that it pulls away from the coolant. The coolant then hits the cylinder wall with such force that it will pit the wall and can eventually destroy the engine. The higher the output from an engine the greater the cavatation.

I replaced my coolant this year with the Zerex GO-5. I wish it had a dye in it as it is hard to see in the overflow bottle and to spot slow leaks.