Ace

Let me just start by saying, if you don't see the need for a coolant filter on these engines, or believe it's a waste of time for no practical benefit, let's agree on that, I'm just doing this for fun and to make me feel better, OK? Go read another thread.

OTOH, if you would like to see an easy, inexpensive way to get the most out of your cooling system dollar, extend the life of your water pump, heater core, radiator and virtually all parts of the cooling system, read on!

http://stuff.is-a-geek.net/PhotoAlbu...ics/CRD_14.JPG

Total cost including the head, filter and a few dollars worth of welding wire, about $50. You need a fitting to tap the head, a tee for the heater return line and a few clamps. That's about it. Oh, I almost forgot - you need to fabricate a custom mount - it's 14 inches long and extends down to bolt right on to the top of the shock, using the excess threads coming out the top shock mount. Simple and effective.

Here's what the plumbing looks like, almost too easy:

http://stuff.is-a-geek.net/PhotoAlbu...ics/CRD_15.JPG

Don't have to worry about the fluid's Ph crashing after the coolant gets a couple years old (SCA add in the filter) and any debris floating around in the system is going to end up in the filter, instead of a thick coating of slime all over the inside the block and everywhere else. I figure I'll run a standard vanilla filter with no SCA for the first couple years after changing the coolant, then start using the SCA filters and go for 5 on the coolant change interval. The G05 coolant Mopar is using now is supposed to be good for 5 years, but I don't trust that entirely. Now I know it's good to go.

enafzige

I like it Ace!

Where'd you source the filter head from? Do you have a part number for it?

Lookin good!

--Eric

CamperAndy

What was the filters original use? I see it says coolant but from what application?

I can see some heater function issues depending on what the DP and flow is on the filter. Why did you not just place it in line with the heater. Then if the heater output dropped you would know the filter was plugging.

Ace

I got the head from Wix, but I know Fleetguard makes them, probably several others. I'll post the part number when I get a chance.

Andy, reasoning on the plumbing is, coolant filters seem to be subject subject to clogging alot quicker for some reason. The filter on my 1st Gen is inline with the heater and works great. But I had to change it twice in the first three months while the system was cleaning up, and that resulted a few cooold drives to work! I also see diminishing heater output over time. It's easy enough to just check the filter after shutting down to see it's getting warm. If not, time to change.

There is a restrictor built in to the outlet on the filter. It looks like it's about 1/6", or slightly larger. I had the heater on during the first test drive to monitor this issue, and it seemed like the heat actually came on faster and hotter. I am either suffering a placebo effect, or the extra flow created in back of the head with two taps on it has increased the overall flow through heater somehow. Dunno. At least I know the filter won't stop the heater.

I have no idea what application that filter is for. There's all sorts of them out there, but the only real difference in them is the size and amount of SCA additive contained, or none. They all have the same thread/head mount. I got those on EBay for a couple bucks each a few years ago.

One thing I forgot to mention is by mounting it up high as possible (it's actually just touching the hood liner when the hood is shut) allows it to be changed without losing much coolant - basically just what's in the filter. Some installs will have shutoff valves in the lines for this reason, but that's not necessary here.

D-Roc

Is there any possibility that air could beome entrapped in the system if your filter was to become plugged? I know that in the manual it mentions there area couple of check valves that expel air, but I'm curious if a plugged filter would cause any issues.
I've been thinking about doing a coolant filter myself.

D-Roc

Also, forgive the dumb question here, but the flow of coolant would come from the head and go into the heater core, would it not?

Ace

If the filter clogs, it would behave just as if it were not there to begin with. Remember, you are tapping into a port that was initially plugged. And yes, coolant flows out the head to the heater and back down to the trans heat exchanger I believe. Although I didn't actually trace that line out, it disappears back behind the engine somewhere and that's all I can think of that gets water on the other side in back of the engine..

CamperAndy

The low pressure side of the heater core goes to the water pump inlet.

dozer12216

Another useless filter maybe: If you gonna install it, might as well use shut off valves to facilitate filter changes. Truck equipment dealers, antifreeze distributors are genarally a source for complete kits with instructions for correctlly plumbing the antifreeze extender/filter. They are generally used on hugh volume cooling system. I have a application with 50 (fifty) gallon antifreeze system. I have not changed the fluid yet. Now wether I can justify installing in limited space of DD engine compartment is another matter. It is my understanding that rock chemical must be used with correct antifreeze.

04DEEZELRAM

The filter is a good idea, i building one too, we use them on everything i work on, even b series, i know the filters on the bigger engines have dca in the filter which help with cavatation on the liner walls, but i run it in my truck

ajpulley

Some of you guys know where to find this stuff, but guys like me haven't a clue. Without part numbers, it's hard to know where to start looking, and what I'm looking for. I like it though.

rufushusky

Looks good I have been thinking of one...

TexasCTD

Hmmm, that's kinda interesting. I never thought about "filtering" the coolant.


As part of my 20,000 self-imposed maintenance interval.....I have been draining my radiator (usually about 4.5 gallons) and refilling with fresh Zerez G-05 mixed 50/50 with distilled water. It doesn't get it all out...im not flushing....but seems to keep it with "like new" stuff in it.

..

CTD NUT

I have a Wix coolant filter head with a Fleetguard coolant filter installed inline with the heater core return to the pump. Hardly a worthless filter, when you consider the cost of the parts it protects. I got my Wix filter head from Napa.

Hvytrkmech

Adding a preloaded coolant filter to a DCA cooling system,(reg green Ethelyn/Glycol) is a great thing. You will still need to check your ph level on a regular basis, most likely you just won't need to add any conditioner.

For all the boy's out there running HOAT coolant, DO NOT add a DCA filter to your truck. If you want, you can add a regular non DCA coolant filter, however I say you are wasting your time and money. A drain and refill at the recommended service interval, (250k) for the type I am running is all you need.



Tim