OK then...how about when you run that turbo real hot and shut'er down a little too quickly....would you rather have Dino or synthetic?? The Cummins may not need the synthetic, but I think it is good for the turbo for safety margin....??? Logical?????

ON subject - I think the amsoil warranty is fair enough. They will look after your analysis carefully since they are accountable for the repair if needed due to oil issue.

JKE

 

rossn2, thanks for the information and comments about drain intervals and warranty with Amsoil. I was leaning toward 15,000 mile oil changes, what you posted reinforces going with that interval. Whether or not I do single bypass (I have no interest in dual bypass). I just want to change my filter every 7500 mi and oil every 15k and not have anything to worry about.

My own justification for running synthetics: I am not doing this for cost savings, and I'm not doing this in an attempt to increase fuel mileage or extend the life of my engine by any significant amount. I am doing it for the extra margin of safety in times of thermal stress, those 110 degree days pulling a trailer, those -10F starts without plugging in, and an oil that can stand up to high horsepower more readily and help ensure longer life even with a BOMBed engine. As horsepower increases along with heat and internal stresses and pressures, an oil that worked fine on a long term basis in a 230hp 12-valve may not work as well for a 325hp ISBe. I want an engine that stays clean internally which ensures better heat transfer, less chance of an oil gallery plugging, or crud sloughing off. Lastly changing oil isn't one of my favorite chores and I'm happy to do it less often.

For that I'm happy to pay 50% more for my oil maintenance. I have seen quite a few Cummins run 600K-1 million plus on Dino oil and I believe synthetics aren't the answer for everyone, and that oils like Delo 400, Delvac 1300, Rotella, etc. do an excellent job in our Cummins.

Vaughn

 

Well this has been an interesting read, from this I would conclude for myself I'm better of sticking to Delvac 1300 and changing at 7500 mi intervals since I'll only be towing 200-500 miles every 6 or 8 weeks. Rest of the time just commuting with an occasional run to Lowe's for Pellets or fertilizer. When it comes time to retire and we want to tow the trailer across country I might change to synthetic but then I've heard on an older engine it can cause seals to swell and leak.

 

Perhaps I'm a bit slow here, but explain to me how oil will lower your computer controlled RPMs? I'm guessing you're referring to idle RPM. While driving, isn't it a matter of physics? The engine has to turn so fast to turn the tires a certain speed - all based on gearing and what not. So... some magical elixir of oil will give me lower RPMs? Explain that one to me, please.

As for using Amsoil, I'm going to pass. Spent the money last truck and noticed nothing whatsoever. Now they won't even stand behind their product beyond the manufacturer's warranty recommendations, yet they'll charge twice that of good quality dino oil... that is API rated and maintains my factory warranty? No thanks!

And, I'll use the API rated/DC approved oils in my diffs and tranny, too.

 

[QUOTE] Now they won't even stand behind their product beyond the manufacturer's warranty recommendations, yet they'll charge twice that of good quality dino oil... that is API rated and maintains my factory warranty? No thanks!


Try over 3 times the amount.
Lets face it, most of us will trade in our trucks before the benefits of running an oil that costs 3 times as much will pay off.

i LOVE my truck , and i`m not that edducated in this oil analysis thing, but for me to get under my truck every 10,000 miles( i`ve decided on this number because i tow VERRY little, and the oil looks like new when i change it).....to say the least , its a PLEASURE. i mean, its every 6 months with the amount of driving i do, and i LOVE to get under her, and check out all the cool parts


if i were a full time hauler, which i know some of you are. i might re-think this. but remember, we all use our trucks differently, so what works for you may not be right for the next guy.

i dont care if the dealer gave me a LIFETIME of FREE oil changes, i would still say NO. Dont brag about your self leting some one else put there hands on your girl.. I`d rather pay the 5.50 per gallon of Rotella, and make sure its done right. just because the`re the dealer doesn`t meen they treating it like YOU would.

just my opinion.

 

If you are trading trucks before seeing the benefits of long term usage..... then why did you spend an extra $5,000.00 for the Diesel option??? To save .10 on the gallon at the pump?

 

probably just for the capability of the truck....he may have lots of money too and like a new body style when it comes out....heck, trade every year if you got the money and don't care about spending it.....

Rossn2 - good thread. I think you brought light to something that a few guys weren't thinking about. Interesting info.

JKE

 

This thread reminds me of the energizer bunny, it keeps going and going and..

Some folks prefer to use syn and some don't, it thats simple. Some folks don't mind paying a little extra money for what they believe to offer better performance - be it vehicles, engines, tires, oil, rubber belts/hoses, etc....

I've been using Mobil1 in my cars since the days when the container label said it was good for 25,000 mile oil changes. So did I did feel violated, lied to, and wronged when Mobil "changed their position" and removed that sentence from the container? No. Do I continue to use it? Of course - I'm still running it.

Some folks might consider any oil marketed as a 25000 mile oil as "snake-oil" or "too good to be true", and thereby not use it - cutting both sales/profits, and market share.

I don't know what motivated the change in Amsoils position, and do know that Oil is big business.

But I do know that we live in a litigation happy society where sympathetic jury's award astronomical amounts of money to so-called victims' of big business improprieties.

I think that someone would have to be a knucklehead to run extended drain intervals without trend analysis. Because of what something says on a piece of paper? I never followed M1's 25k mile interval because of the piece of paper glued to the container. Yet there are knuckleheads out there that will ruin an engine through their own negligence, and trigger happy lawyers who could care less, and be more than happy to win large lawsuits and collect 75% of the award for themselves and the firm.

There's an old saying that I agree with: "You get what you pay for". A perceived value for my money. Thats why I bought my CTD Ram and not a Ford or Chevy. Thats why folks at the other sites bought their trucks and not a CTD Ram. Thats why I spend the extra $ on syn oil; and others that don't. I appreciate the fact that we have a choice.

I'll continue to use Amsoil; and when its time to change out the M1, Amsoil is going in there too. I don't think there have been any modfications to the formulation/composition of the oil, just a change in corporate position. A sign of the times.

 

Using the bipass system and amsoil 3000, 5-30 amsoil rep told me they covered warranty issues even though #3000, 5-30 wasn't certified. He was quoting the "mossy oak" act [spelling!!??]. and never mentioned the use of amsoils air filters to qualify! I didn't know they had them let alone hooked a warrantee with them. Haven't noticed any sigs of forum guys using amsoil air filters either.
Thanks to the ol' salt for gettin' it noticed! My experience is "you never know what your covered for until you have a claim".and there ain't nothin' put down in writing that a self serving lawer and a couple of Judges can't change to suit themselves. [Our constitutional documents for example], Anybody tells me different is probably selling something! Sorry..... back to oil

I plan to use amsoil 3000 5-30 in my new motor possibly after break in period with or without legal double talk concerns simply because right now I believe it is the best. Why would I want to use the second best if best is a affordable option?

I ran Rotella the last 20 years and couldn't tell you if they promote a warranty or not! I didn't know enough about syn. oil then to think of it as a better lubricant.
I think the "mossy oak act", haha, would let me use any air filter in regaurd to your oil warranty, Mr amsoil. and I'm going to use your 3000 5-30 thinkin' I did my best, after all I bought a cummins, didn't I. Not an Isuzu!!

 

I'm not in favor of getting stoned to death, but in MHO I would not consider putting a 5 weight anything in my engine. Synthetic is better, agreed, but 5w in a diesel is not where it is at. Ask Cummins. Ok if you are in Canada or Alaska, but not in 90 degree summers.

 

No stone throwing; but "W" stands for winter rating, and has no bearing on the oil's viscosity at operating temperature. 5W-30 multi-grade means it will flow like a 5 grade at 0F, and is 30 grade at 212F. But I wouldn't feel comfortable running a 30 grade year 'round in the Cummins. If using a synthetic, I'd be looking at Mobil Delvac 1, which is a 5W-40 motor oil.

 

Not me but alot of people buy the diesel for trade in value. A heavy duty truck with a gasser under the hood with 100k you can hardly give it away. A diesel truck in good shape they line up for, even with 300k on the clock. FWIW.

 

I was saying that tongue in cheek. There is a guy at a local market here who has an old Chrysler slant 6 engine on a trailer. He put this magic "elixer" in it and now it runs without oil or an oil pan on it. It idles for hours. No load, 500 rpm, nice and rich, and people line up to buy this crap because they think this engine is "magic". I challenged him one day, he was a very nice guy, but would not give me a straight answer. I bet him his business that I could dig up an old slant somewhere, bring it to him and run it day and night with no oil without his "snake oil". He just walked away from me. He knows the truth......but many don't and buy his stuff.

 

OK guys, I've been stoned befor but the day after was easier a few years back, so let me have it! When amsoil says #3000 performs better at high temperatures than convential 40 weight, I'm thinking of the rotella I used for 20 yr by comparission, what part of outperforms and better don't I understand? also, according to amsoils' who's got the biggest 4 ***** test, the mobil Delvac 5-40 wasbottom of the scale. I know paper sits still for any thing to be written on it, and amsoil is selling and this syn oil stuff is not my grandfathers oil! [Sinclair 10 in winter, 30 in summer]. I also see amsoil list approval as in meeting a cummins spec. though I admit I 'm not familiar with the specification! Just hype meaningless name association or what? there is also mention of 6 month oil intervals, do you think this suggest #3000 be drained after the 6 mth winter period and replaced with a 40 or 50 ?

Well, that's enough from me, I wrote mor today already than I did in a month, gettin cabin fever-no truck, can't get away from the cabin-won't start other equipment till April, got the heavey oil in it !! Get goin' but go easy....STY





b

 

I am fully aware of what the numbers mean. Fine if the only temperatures that the engine runs at are 0F and 212F, but this is not the case. Lets say at 140, what is the viscosity? I can tell you this, 10w40 runs like water compared to 15w40 at temperatures that the engines use as normal. There is a lot more to it than the viscosity at the lowest temperature that the oil is designed to operate under. Otherwise we would not be using 15w40 we would be using 5w40 Delo or Rotella. Cummins specifies the temperatures that it is advised to go to the lower viscosity oils, and that is not a temperature that is acheived in most of the states. If the oil is made to standards, then the advice of the engine manufacturer should be followed when using it, if it is not to the correct standards, it should not be used anyway. Ok, that is my soap box, I watched many Detroits go to pot for using multigrade oils when 40 weight was specified, I just kept hammering mine for years, never had a bearing problem. The oil has to retain the viscosity to make the oil film to keep the crank and mains from touching each other, to low a viscosity and this does not happen. Early failure is the result. And I really don't give a flip what the oil manufacturers hype is. Show me where Cummins says it is ok to run a 5w30 or a 5w40 oil in a temperate climate.