I did a complete fluid (oil) change on my 2500 yesterday. Having a neighbor with a shop and a lift is truly a blessing. Here's what I found with 45,000 mile on the ticker...

1. Front differential-fairly clean. I love the reusable seal, it makes for less cleanup and a quicker job all together.

2. Manual transmission-pretty clean with no chunks. (always a good sign) It took a couple of seconds debating on which bolt to pull to drain the fluid. I tried the one on the right side on the bottom and it drained just fine. The fill hole was another story. Apparently DC thought it would be nice to put a huge hex head plug in for a fill hole, forcing us to buy yet another tool that can only be used for one purpose. With a little hillbilly engineering we took a metric bolt head that fit the hex hole and welded a nut on the end, allowing us to remove the plug.

3. Transfer case-filthy, more brown than red. The book calls for ATF+4 for fluid. I added regular ATF+4 to flush it out and plan to go back to synthetic at the next oil change.

4. Rear differential-filthy, but no chunks. At the advice of my mechanic neighbor, I pulled the ABS sensor and wiped it off. there was some metal particles that were removed. He told me that it can sometimes interfere with the sensor and cause it to throw a code if not cleaned.

5. Engine oil-easy as usual. Nothing unexpected.

I used synthetic oils in the transfer cases, and transmission. I used Rotella in the motor and regular ATF+4 in the transfer case. All in all I spent about 3 hours and $130.00. Now I can't wait for my new toy to get here so I can play.

 

Nice info. Yea, the new tool to drain the trans almost got me the 1st time too.

Also, I think ATF+4 is synthetic by definition.

 

Nice info, posts like this help a lot of people just gettin into weekend wrenchin.

 

you can buy a hand pump from a boating store (West Marine) that is used to put lower unit oil into a mercruiser outdrive. It has a fitting on the end that is the same thread as the pto bolt so all you do is screw it into the top bolt hole and pump it full. I used royal purple and the pump screwed right to the bottle. there is no need to remove the fill plug. zero mess refilling

 

I almost forgot...

I solved the rusty differential cover problem by cleaning them up very good with a wire wheel and coating them with several coats of aerosol spray bed liner that I bought for $8.00 at O'Rileys.

 

bduncan- SWEET! Great idea! I've done the trans and t-case with a hand pump but I always make a mess (just a pump w/ a hose you put in the fill hole). I'll have to stop by West Marine and get a new pump. I didn't know it was the same thread. I would have done that a long time ago!

 

Guardrail, thanks for the info, very useful. Going through the same fluid change out myself only I'm throwing in a new clutch as well. 96k on the old one thought it was time.
The only question I have is which bolt on the right did you use to drain? I don't have the it close to me, it's at a Brothers place still in the air. We're waiting for a new main seal. But I don't remember any bolts low enough to drain. I remember the two access plates on either side, but nothing lower than that.
Any info will help. Thanks