aghhh...can' get my tire off...
11-23-2007, 03:36 PM
#46
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If you can locate a product at the auto parts store called PB Blaster it works wonders. My wife drives an Audi and had the same problem and no matter what I hit or pried with it would not come off. Soaked the back of the wheel where it meets the rotor with this stuff and waited an hour or so and came back and one tap with a hammer it came right off. Here is a link to the stuff I am talking about. http://www.pbblaster.com/store/morei...m?Product_ID=1 Hope this helps.
11-23-2007, 03:44 PM
#47
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If you can locate a product at the auto parts store called PB Blaster it works wonders. My wife drives an Audi and had the same problem and no matter what I hit or pried with it would not come off. Soaked the back of the wheel where it meets the rotor with this stuff and waited an hour or so and came back and one tap with a hammer it came right off. Here is a link to the stuff I am talking about. http://www.pbblaster.com/store/morei...m?Product_ID=1 Hope this helps.
11-23-2007, 04:01 PM
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It is a penetrating fluid but works much better than WD or any of the common ones. A friend brought it over to try when I was having the problem and it worked wonders.
11-25-2007, 01:30 PM
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same problem here ... I just put on my winter rims and tires and spent pretty much the whole day getting the alum rims off. I used pentrating fluid (lots), an 8 lb sledge, a 3 lb dead blow, a 6' 4x4, a 4' wrecking bar and my boots ... only on the tires. It seemed a different method finally popped off each rim. Each one was frustrating but the left rear was the toughest. Needless to say anti-sieze is going on the inside of the rim in the spring. I actually for-saw the rims being tough to get off cuz I know what happens when you mix aluminum and steel but never thought it would be as tough as it was ... man. 
If it ever happens again I will try the hydraulic jack trick
If it ever happens again I will try the hydraulic jack trick
11-25-2007, 01:39 PM
#51
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the difference is you actually got yours off....I have yet to do so. I tried the PB blaster stuff, but that didnt work either. dead blow, nothing. I have to get the truck into the shop tomorrow for brake work (dont trust myself with brakes) so I will let them try. if they get it off, I can just say I got it started for them.
11-25-2007, 01:52 PM
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Do you have alloy wheels or steel wheels?
Alloy wheels are prone to issues against steel if an anti sieze compound or grease isn't used. You might try heating the wheels through braking (e-brake???) and then see i they can be popped loose. This will work well with an aluminum wheel because the aluminum will expand more quickly than the steel hub.
Just a thought. Good luck.
Alloy wheels are prone to issues against steel if an anti sieze compound or grease isn't used. You might try heating the wheels through braking (e-brake???) and then see i they can be popped loose. This will work well with an aluminum wheel because the aluminum will expand more quickly than the steel hub.
Just a thought. Good luck.
11-25-2007, 01:54 PM
#53
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I had a jeep that came from up north... everything under it was rusted. We heated the rim around the studs, beat on it a bit, gave up and put a handyman jack (jeep jack, hi lift jack) against the pumpkin and the rim.
All you need is a bigger hammer...
All you need is a bigger hammer...
11-25-2007, 01:58 PM
#54
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I like the idea of driving it around in a parking lot with the nuts backed off a turn or two. It can't come completely off but it can move around a bit and break loose.
The wheels are lug centric. Not hub centric. The eight tapered lug nuts tightening into tapered holes center the wheels and carry the weight. The center hole, even though it is now tight with corrosion, is a clerance hole and does not carry the weight. Some old aftermarket wheels had a sort of flat washer and nut arrangement that depended on the center hole to carry some weight. Not the case here. Most aftermarket wheels have a large center hole these days because it is only for clearance. The nuts do the work. It's handy to have a fairly tight fit there to aid in getting the nuts started, but that's it.
Once off the truck be sure to clean the hole and the axle, then put a little grease or antisieze where they fit together.
John
The wheels are lug centric. Not hub centric. The eight tapered lug nuts tightening into tapered holes center the wheels and carry the weight. The center hole, even though it is now tight with corrosion, is a clerance hole and does not carry the weight. Some old aftermarket wheels had a sort of flat washer and nut arrangement that depended on the center hole to carry some weight. Not the case here. Most aftermarket wheels have a large center hole these days because it is only for clearance. The nuts do the work. It's handy to have a fairly tight fit there to aid in getting the nuts started, but that's it.
Once off the truck be sure to clean the hole and the axle, then put a little grease or antisieze where they fit together.
John
11-25-2007, 04:22 PM
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I like the idea of driving it around in a parking lot with the nuts backed off a turn or two. It can't come completely off but it can move around a bit and break loose.
The wheels are lug centric. Not hub centric. The eight tapered lug nuts tightening into tapered holes center the wheels and carry the weight. The center hole, even though it is now tight with corrosion, is a clerance hole and does not carry the weight. Some old aftermarket wheels had a sort of flat washer and nut arrangement that depended on the center hole to carry some weight. Not the case here. Most aftermarket wheels have a large center hole these days because it is only for clearance. The nuts do the work. It's handy to have a fairly tight fit there to aid in getting the nuts started, but that's it.
Once off the truck be sure to clean the hole and the axle, then put a little grease or antisieze where they fit together.
John
The wheels are lug centric. Not hub centric. The eight tapered lug nuts tightening into tapered holes center the wheels and carry the weight. The center hole, even though it is now tight with corrosion, is a clerance hole and does not carry the weight. Some old aftermarket wheels had a sort of flat washer and nut arrangement that depended on the center hole to carry some weight. Not the case here. Most aftermarket wheels have a large center hole these days because it is only for clearance. The nuts do the work. It's handy to have a fairly tight fit there to aid in getting the nuts started, but that's it.
Once off the truck be sure to clean the hole and the axle, then put a little grease or antisieze where they fit together.
John
X2 !!! Works everytime for me
11-25-2007, 09:00 PM
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2x4 probably is to light. You need a heavy object, with a large surface area, to spread the force out. I had to use a 6ft piece of pipe. Took one swing (not too hard) on the backside of the tire on the bottom, but as close to the rim as I could get it, and she broke free. Just as hydraulics are good, Leverage is too.
11-26-2007, 07:54 PM
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I watched the tire shop rotate mine and they didn't use a lift, they had the back end jacked up with one jack under the diff, and just used probably an 8lb rubberized sledge and with one hit on the top of the rear tire, it popped off. I thought they were crazy for using the sledge until I saw this thread and realized they must be harder than I thought to get off.
11-28-2007, 04:13 PM
#59
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well.....the tire is off. FINALLY. alas, the shop did it for me, so it is kind of a bittersweet victory, the tires off, but I was not the one to do it. oh well.
the shop said they used a big rubber sledge, so that will be the next purchase for me, and I will just keep that in the truck.
the shop said they used a big rubber sledge, so that will be the next purchase for me, and I will just keep that in the truck.