6spd vs auto -all towing
6spd vs auto -all towing
I'm looking to get a HO '03 or '04 in the next month. Truck will be used solely to pull ~4500lb boat and ~8500lb enclosed car hauler (both tag). Occasional runs to HD but that’s it.
I'm looking in the 130k range of trucks here in TX. I want 2wd, quad cab, SLT (cruise control).
I know the 6spd gets slightly better gas mileage towing, easier on brakes and better for controlling temps. Also, everything I've read the autos tend to need a rebuild sometime around the mileage I'm looking into.
So, seems like the 6spd is the easy choice. Problem is there are only 1/2 dozen or so at any given time in my 500 mile range vs 25ish autos.
Basically I can get a much nicer auto that has been babied all its life (read no 5th wheel) for less than a 6 spd. Plus, obviously the auto is just easier to drive.
I guess what it really comes down to is how much it will cost to rebuild an auto. Assuming it will eventually have to be done, what's the typical $$ for a auto rebuild? Just the basic stuff, nothing special. I will not be adding anything to the truck powerwise etc. Another option is to pull a junkyard tranny. Wonder how much those cost?
Thanks.
I'm looking in the 130k range of trucks here in TX. I want 2wd, quad cab, SLT (cruise control).
I know the 6spd gets slightly better gas mileage towing, easier on brakes and better for controlling temps. Also, everything I've read the autos tend to need a rebuild sometime around the mileage I'm looking into.
So, seems like the 6spd is the easy choice. Problem is there are only 1/2 dozen or so at any given time in my 500 mile range vs 25ish autos.
Basically I can get a much nicer auto that has been babied all its life (read no 5th wheel) for less than a 6 spd. Plus, obviously the auto is just easier to drive.
I guess what it really comes down to is how much it will cost to rebuild an auto. Assuming it will eventually have to be done, what's the typical $$ for a auto rebuild? Just the basic stuff, nothing special. I will not be adding anything to the truck powerwise etc. Another option is to pull a junkyard tranny. Wonder how much those cost?
Thanks.
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From: In Oroville, Ca., same house for past 46 yrs!
my 03 dually pulls a big 40' 3-axle enclosed car trailer. see pic. I have the auto but took it apart at 130K and freshened it up and changed out the stock clutches for the thin red line ones and that gives me more surface area contact when changing gears.
I spent about 1200$ for everything and that included a new converter. I didn't go with a fancy expensive triple clutch deal, just a tight factory spec replacment and did a VB mod to increase the pressure a tiny bit and make the shifts crisp. Other than that, nothing else. I love this thing, you don't lose the boost pressure between shifts like you do with a manual.
Think about that next tme you're pulling a 6% grade with 14,000 behind the front bumper.
db
I spent about 1200$ for everything and that included a new converter. I didn't go with a fancy expensive triple clutch deal, just a tight factory spec replacment and did a VB mod to increase the pressure a tiny bit and make the shifts crisp. Other than that, nothing else. I love this thing, you don't lose the boost pressure between shifts like you do with a manual.
Think about that next tme you're pulling a 6% grade with 14,000 behind the front bumper.
db
I would hazaed a guess that mpg towing is not goign to be much different between the auto adn manual, at least I don't see it from what does to others as a rule.
Empty the auto is going to have an advantage in the mpg department.
If the truck has been babied and, no towing or power adders, you probably won't even need a full rebuild at those miles. Add a shift kit, TC, and a few other parts and its good for a long time.
The weight you talk about is insignificant in the decision between auto and manual. The manual is at its best at 15k plus with no mods, an auto will handle that easily.
A lot will depend on driving style and situation. Its not a given you rebuild at 130k, a lot of people get way more than that towing big trailers with power. Maintenance and use will be the telling feature.
I would choose an auto over the manual any day in the situation you present.
Empty the auto is going to have an advantage in the mpg department.
If the truck has been babied and, no towing or power adders, you probably won't even need a full rebuild at those miles. Add a shift kit, TC, and a few other parts and its good for a long time.
The weight you talk about is insignificant in the decision between auto and manual. The manual is at its best at 15k plus with no mods, an auto will handle that easily.
A lot will depend on driving style and situation. Its not a given you rebuild at 130k, a lot of people get way more than that towing big trailers with power. Maintenance and use will be the telling feature.
I would choose an auto over the manual any day in the situation you present.
The autos have a bad reputation, and deserved in a lot of cases, but you will spend less rebuilding the auto than you will the manual. In our area, you can't even find anyone that will open a manual up.
Personally for that little weight it really isn't going to matter much
While there's not question an auto will easily handle the weight you want to deal with, I would rather have a manual if I was planning to have the truck for nothing but towing. A manual allows you to have full power to the wheels, as well as allowing you to control the load better.
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If you can find a 03 with 6sp NV5600 with exhaust brake and 4:10 gears, you will never have an issue with towing anything up to 16,000lbs or more, and get great fuel (not gas) mileage.
Case in point, Fiverbob, a regular visitor here, has an 03 6 sp 4.10's, pulls a 36 Carriage Fifth Wheel and averages 12.5 mpg. Truck has pulled 8% grades in New Foundland and been to Alaska and Copper Canyon with the fiver. My Son's Wife's, Mom and Dad have an 05 Six Speed NV5600 4:10's with the same size fiver and get 12.5 average towing.
I had a 6sp NV5600, 2000 model year with 3.55's pulling max load and got 10mpg. Put 203,000 on the six speed. At 185,000 the six speed was opened. Only sixth gear had any marks on the race. I was told it was from my hand holding the shift lever while driving. Pictures of the tear down in My Photos section here. That was during a clutch change and they tried to tell me the imput shaft bearing was bad. They paid for the teardown. 3rd gear syncro had some wear as expected.
I now have an Auto, and wish I still had the 6 speed. I have no confidence in the tranny yet. I've had the truck since Jun09. Pulled a little and it seemed to do OK. The only thing that will gain me confidence in it will be to change the rear to 4:56 since a 4:30 is not available. A 4.10 would only give me another 200 rpms at 65 mph.
The 4.56 will effectively reduce tranny temps, EGT's and in general keep theload off the tranny. I will loose my mpg when not towing. So, I won't make the change until I'm ready to tow all the time.
Dave
Case in point, Fiverbob, a regular visitor here, has an 03 6 sp 4.10's, pulls a 36 Carriage Fifth Wheel and averages 12.5 mpg. Truck has pulled 8% grades in New Foundland and been to Alaska and Copper Canyon with the fiver. My Son's Wife's, Mom and Dad have an 05 Six Speed NV5600 4:10's with the same size fiver and get 12.5 average towing.
I had a 6sp NV5600, 2000 model year with 3.55's pulling max load and got 10mpg. Put 203,000 on the six speed. At 185,000 the six speed was opened. Only sixth gear had any marks on the race. I was told it was from my hand holding the shift lever while driving. Pictures of the tear down in My Photos section here. That was during a clutch change and they tried to tell me the imput shaft bearing was bad. They paid for the teardown. 3rd gear syncro had some wear as expected.
I now have an Auto, and wish I still had the 6 speed. I have no confidence in the tranny yet. I've had the truck since Jun09. Pulled a little and it seemed to do OK. The only thing that will gain me confidence in it will be to change the rear to 4:56 since a 4:30 is not available. A 4.10 would only give me another 200 rpms at 65 mph.
The 4.56 will effectively reduce tranny temps, EGT's and in general keep theload off the tranny. I will loose my mpg when not towing. So, I won't make the change until I'm ready to tow all the time.
Dave
I pull upwards of 20,000 lbs with my 95 and an auto. I pull hard in the mountains. Truck now has 245,000. Still runs like a dream. Your choice should be based on prefernce towards driveability of each tranny as they are both plenty strong for what you are planning to pull.
If an 03 auto is behind the HO engine (check the label on the head, 305HP), it will be the 48, all the 04's are 48's.



. To each there own.