I have a 2003 Dodge Ram 4x4 HO that won't start unless I roll it down my driveway and pop the clutch. It's had a starting problem that's been getting worse. It's been to the dealer 4 times. They say it's fuel, but it's been doing this for about five months. It used to just be longer and longer cranking times, but now it won't start at all unless I roll start it.

Dealer has replaced 3 injectors, injection pump (CP3) and the lift pump. Fuel filter is clean, I don't see any air getting into the system.

Once the truck is started, it runs just fine. I don't think it's bad fuel, because it's done this through many tanks of fuel, and I've run fuel conditioner, etc. through the system. I don't have *any* driveability problems at all. Still gets 22mpg on the freeway. I was even able to *push* start it. (Not very easy to push a 5000+ lb. truck). It just doesn't seem to want to start using the key.

If the fuel system is opened up, either removing a line temporarily, or opening the filter cannister cover, then the truck will start a couple of times before it stops working again. (Usually after a long crank the first time, probably to re-prime the system)

This problem occurs whether the truck is hot or cold, and in hot or cold weather. Doesn't seem to make a difference.

Does *anyone* have any ideas?

Thanks

 

Welcome to DTR, Steffan. I would check first, the connections to your batteries and the starter. Make sure they are clean and tight. Secondly, I'd have both batteries load tested. If your batteries are not up to par, the starter can pull the voltage down low enough to not allow the ECM to do it's thing. Without the ECM, your CTD is DEAD. Push starting your truck allows it to start because the starter is not pulling your voltage down.

 

Thanks, FMB. I did try it with two brand new batteries also. No difference. I'll clean the battery connections and retry it. After the new batteries, I took a 250 mile trip, thinking that would provide plenty of charge in case they weren't full charged (2 x 875 CCA batteries). It didn't seem to make a difference there. It cranked over plenty fast, about 200 rpm, but still didn't start without rolling it down a hill. I've seen voltage while cranking around 10.7 volts.

There are times in the past when I got the battery discharged a fair amount while cranking and it did finally start. The problem has gradually gotten worse, though, and now after I shut it down, it'll start once, and if I turn it off and try it again, it won't start.

The *really* interesting thing is that if I open up any part of the fuel system, i.e., open the filter cannister and close it or disconnect one of the fuel lines between the filter and the injection pump and reconnect it, the truck will start right up after cranking a little bit to reprime the pump. Of course, this makes it more difficult because the dealer will open up the system to look at the filter, or whatever, and then the truck starts. They then say "The truck starts now, it's just bad fuel" and give it back to me. Two starts later, it's the same thing...

 

My 03 started down this road too, took it to the dealer and was told that three injectors were stuck open, allowing the needed pressures to escape. they only replaced three and within a week the problem returned. I then took it to a local respected mechanic and he replaced the remainder. My problem is now gone for 5 months and 20k miles.

 

Steffan do you have an aftermarket lift pump? If so you could have too much pressure at the CP3 which I have read can cause a hard start issue.

 

No, I had the stock engine lift pump when the problems started. The dealer replaced it with the in-tank version, with no change in the problem. I read 10psi between the filter & the injector pump, which I believe is more than sufficient to feed a stock system at idle.

 

That's one of the things I've been worried about. Would I notice any driveability issues with three injectors stuck open? The dealer supposedly tested all of them and only found three out of spec. Of course, the others could have gone after the first test...

I'm considering taking it to the local Cummins shop, although on the phone they said they didn't have the diagnostic equipment to talk to a Dodge-installed engine. Anyone have experience with that?

 

Your crankcase would slowly fill with diesel, you would get cruddy mileage, the oil level would finally get to the top and begin to overflow the diesel/oil mixture out the dipstick and paint your engine compartment, underside of the whole truck and the tailgate. Drivability issues??? Yeah, you look bad and smell too.

 

I am going to throw this out there, but I don't remember all the details.

There is a wire loom that runs just under the intercooler/radiator. I believe it contains a wire that runs to the crank sensor. There were some that had issues with this wire getting worn/cut and shorting. You might check that and see. If the computer is not seeing crank position, I assume it won't fire the injectors.

It sounds like you might have an electrical/computer problem if the truck will run fine when roll started.