Howdy, been lurking for many moons. I cannot find an answer or find a solution to my problem.

07 3500 DRW 5.9 6sp 4x4 120,ooo miles. 3rd owner starting at 87000 miles,Nov. 2010.

During heavy traffic, after 1-3+ hrs hwy cruising (towing light GN/BP) or just the truck, offroad (2-3rd around ranch in and out of 4x4) truck begins to get hard to shift. Clutch(orig more than likely) feels even, firm, normal etc. Mainly the stick just is hard to move fully into gear, almost feels like its partially in gear(R-6TH) but wont go, doesnt grind or hang up or doesnt feel like it is. Im sure heat has something to do with it. Pumping clutch or slight rpm rev doesnt help. To shift into R,1,2, I have to turn the truck off and shift then start and go. Fluid is full and appears to be in good shape.

I replaced(had a rep. mechanic imo do it) the master and slave at 103,000 or spring 2011. He said by working on adjusting the slave etc that the clutch felt fine etc. This helped it but after 4-5ooo miles the problem came back.

I have heard and mechanic stated there is a plastic piece that does the sliding and that it could be worn or gone. Could this be an issue and can it be fixed without dropping the trans?

Thoughts, similar experiences, etc.

Thanks for reading my book.....look forward to responses.

 

I've also had some problems shifing into and out of gears, almost as if it only goes in half way at times. This only happens to me once in a blue moon but all i do to correct it is just let the RPMs settle down a bit and try it again.

I've never had it to where i've had to shut off the truck itself and start with the truck in gear, but i'd say something is DEF. wrong.

Do you use your clutch to up shift every time?

 

Oh yeah I use clutch to up and down shift.

 

I'd say your on track with the clutch being the problem. Unfortunately, the trans has to come out to really inspect much there.

 

Any more insight on this?

Problem is still occurring. Mileage now 137000. I have followed the fluid change interval down to the wire even though the ATF looks brand new.

I am convinced that heat is the culprit here. Any suggestions on fluid types to address this? Geno's trans cooler (PTO cooler)? Save money for clutch?

 

Could the pilot bearing be the culprit? I had heard of this type of problem somewhere before, just can't remember the details.

 

The DMF (Dual mass flywheel) stock clutch appears to be done. The problem is in your pressure plate.

 

Hold the clutch down for 30 seconds or so and see if it goes into gear like normal. If it still doesn't want to go then the clutch is dragging with the pedal down. Driving it like that is kinda hard on the syncros. Just FYI.

 

Truck is in the shop. Will follow up with details....

 

So I got my truck back and WOW!!! I'm ready to pull 2 houses off their foundation!

Shop said there was a single mass flywheel and single disc clutch in place that was trashed. I took all the parts with me, going to look over them later. So for information on single discs, going on that I bought the truck with 89000 mi and truck went into shop at 138000 mi, it only "lasted" ~ 50000 mi....... Meanwhile I've had a hard shifting problem for 2 years.....

Everything was replaced with a SB SDD3250-GK, hydraulics and a new flywheel.

Questions:
Not that I'm complaining but pedal pressure is 30-40 % less than "stock" or previous. Is this normal with the upgraded hydraulics?

When shifting, the clutch has to be out mostly all the way before the truck goes, is this common? I guess it is since this is a "performance" clutch.

I have always eased into gear or movement using the clutch which might have been my problem all along. I was always told not to "pop" or jump the clutch.

Thanks for any info provided. I'm sure I will have more questions.

So now I have room for another 200-300 hp with my clutch, what should I do.....ha just kidding. I only have a smarty in my future plans besides filtration and longevity upgrades.

 

The clutch engagement height is a common problem, I had and still have the same issue. As far as I can tell it has not caused any problems in 30K miles. There is no fix for me, some guys have had luck with cutting down the slave cylinder push rod.

Slipping the clutch with no throttle to get started is the way I drive mine. Popping the clutch with your new set up could blow the trans, the clutch you have now will not slip like the stocker might.

 

Little to no fuel when slipping the clutch to start out from a stop. I'm still getting use to the peddel hight also and Ive been driving mine for a year and a half. If you lend your truck to some one and try to explane the issues with a good and grabby clutch they look at you like your an idiot.