pind

I had an issue with the 05 here last winter. Would run fine, then suddenly run like junk, no cel. Never did locate the problem. One night, just finished putting new knuckle joints, brakes and other bits of mmisery is the front end, backed kit out of the shop to let it warm up. Came out, it was running like a toilet, cel on. Didn't see anything apparent, shut it off, crank, no start. Scanned, #5 bad???
Wiggled some wires, it flashed up, no cel, running good. Got under the hood and found a wire rubbed through against an injector line. Couldn't see it unless you were RIGHT THERE. Cut and splice, with brush on electrical tape and shrink tube over top, no more problems.

Like I said before though, you could still have a messed up ground pin in the main ecm connector.

Z-MAN

Thank you pind, I did follow your advice the first time and checked both ecm plugs and all the plugs and wires that I could find and easily access. They all look alright, clean and no rust present. On the wires I couldn't find any rubbing spots. I will start all over again this weekend just to make sure I didn't miss anything. Any ideas on a good fuel diesel additive/lubricant/cleaner? I haven't tried this one yet. And also want to pull out an injector and see if it's worn out, dirty or clogged. Thanks again.

pind

Fppf total power is a good additive, normally I simply use low ash 2 stroke oil though. We're at the mercy of winter fuel here, which is eextremely dry, so 2 stroke oil gets used, eespecially on the older trucks.

There are people here who will toe flick my nads for this,but for system cleaner, I use two litres of low ash two stroke, mixed with a can of seafoam motor treatment. Hasn't failed me so far. Seafoam is awesome stuff, and haven't found it to harm anything, I've used it for a lot of years. Some people will tell you it kills injectors, choice is yours.

If I think of anything else, I'll let you know, but that thought of the solenoid hanging and dumping rail pressure is solid for sure.

Z-MAN

Hey pind, you said:
"... but that thought of the solenoid hanging and dumping rail pressure is solid for sure."
What do you mean? Can you please explain?

Today I found Seafoam 16Oz cans and I bought a couple. I've heard a lot more positive comments then negative about this product. I'm curious to see how, if it works when I get home this weekend.

pind

If you have an injector solenoid hanging, and causing a dump in rail pressure, you could have a problem. It really sounds fishy that it is only #6 that is affected. However, that does isolate the problem. Rules out the fca, cp3, etc.

Still thinking on this one

Z-MAN

Yesterday I used the Seafoam cans, one in the tank mixed with about 17 Gal of diesel and one in the filter housing after I've drained it. Before I started the engine I made sure al the fuel pressure lines are tight and I measured the Ohms on the injectors solenoids using a grounding point, readings were similar on all of them about 0.370 more or less. Finally I cranked the engine with all the injectors connected to the valve gasket wires. I've tried 6-7 times but it didn't start. I had to disconnect injector #6 wires from the solenoid and it took 5 or 6 tries until it started to run, very rough at first and it smoothed down after about 5 min. It settled down to a rough idle just like before at about 600 rpm and it stayed there running for the next 30 min after which I've shut it down. So, nothing has changed so far. Next weekend I'll pull the injectors out.

ssteve58

If you're convinced the problem is # 6, why not just pull it and have it tested? It would save a lot of work, unless you are just going to buy new injectors anyway.

Z-MAN

I believe #6 is bad because I can't explain yet why I can't start the truck when it's solenoid is connected, I have to disconnect the wires in order to start the truck. Also I get P2146 and P2149 which is both banks so this lead me to believe I have another one bad. Lastly, I want to take them to work and test them and eventually take them partially apart, clean them and replace the solenoids and nozzles if necessary. That's how far I will go. If this doesn't work then I will have to buy new ones and that's expensive, it will take some time.

PWong

I would like to see what happen when you swap the #6 injector to another position.
I think your #6 injector solenoid was BAD (may be bad in insulation) in a way that it would triggers codes for both banks to shutdown the firing of injectors.

PWong

Found this online:

One at a time, disconnect both wires from each injector and insulate the terminal ends so the circuit will not short to ground on the effected bank (1-3 for P2146 or 4-6 for P2149). Clear the codes and start the engine, check if the same code resets. If an injector is disconnected and the code does not reset, replace that injector.

Refer to the Powertrain Diagnostic Procedures manual and perform the diagnostics for code P2149. Load test the injector wire harness by using a test light as a load. Unplug the injector harness at the ECM and unplug all injectors. Clamp a test light to battery positive. Probe each injector high side driver at the ECM connector. If the test light illuminates repair the shorted high side driver injector wire. Probe each injector low side driver at the ECM connector. If the test light illuminates repair the shorted low side injector driver wire. Probe each high and low side injector driver wire at the six injector connectors. If the test light illuminates repair the shorted high or low side injector driver wire. Pick an injector high side driver wire. Ground one end of the high side injector driver wire at the ECM connector. Probe the other end of the injector high side driver at the injector connector. The test light should light bright. If it does not light or illuminates dim repair the damaged high side driver wire. There are two high side driver wires at the ECM connector. Each high side driver feeds three injectors. One high side driver feeds the injectors at cylinders 1, 2,and 3. The other high side driver feeds the injectors at cylinders 4, 5, and 6. Repeat the above steps to test the second injector high side driver wire. There are six injector low side drivers that must be tested. Pick a injector low side drive wire and ground one end (ECM connector side or Injector connector side). Probe the ungrounded end of the injector low side driver with your test light. The test light should light bright. If it does not light or illuminates dim repair the damaged high side driver wire. Repeat these steps for the five other injector .

PWong

http://www.rambodybuilder.com/2007/d...tionsystem.pdf
Refer to page 20 and 21 of 41 for wiring info.

Your problem is either injector #6 or the wiring from ECM to injestor.

Z-MAN

Thank you PWong, I really appreciate your input. This weekend I will swap the injectors and hope for a clear result. Updates to follow.

Z-MAN

On how many injector solenoids can you disconnect the wires at the same time and still be able to start the engine?

Z-MAN

Finally, I managed to remove all the injectors. Now I'm in the process of taking them apart one by one and cleaning using a parts washer machine and an ultrasonic bath. So far I've cleaned two of them and I can say they were really dirty and I mean clogged with serious dirt. I don't understand how such thick dirt managed to get inside and deposit in the nozzle nut. And the solenoids seem to be cooked and dirty inside even if the ohm reading is within limits. No wonder the truck was starting so hard and idling so rough. Next, I have to finish cleaning all of them and somehow I have to find the torque values for the nozzle nut, solenoid nut, connecting tube and everything else when I install them back on the truck. I would appreciate if somebody would point me in the right direction.

madhat

I probably have that... message me and I'll look it up.