'06 starts only after disconnecting wires on injector #6
 

Forgot to mention that the RPM goes anywhere from 600 to 750 with the whole engine shaking pretty bad. Also if I try and shift in D (DRIVE) or R(REVERSE) the truck not going anywhere. At least I'm happy that I got it to run for a few minutes before I shut it down, after so many months of silence. I know I'm on the right way to fixing it I just need some more ideas. Thanks

Where are you at in SC?

I wonder if that injector is cracked or hung open. If you disconnect it, it won't get a signal to open, maintaining rail pressure so the truck runs somewhat. How does the oil smell?

Hey Madhat, long time no talk. I'm in Beaufort, sorry actually in Bluffton. We worked together in MALS. The engine oil is old. I will change it as soon as I get home this weekend. With the wiring on the injectors is just as I said. If I have all the gasket wires connected to the injectors it will crank hard and almost start but not. As soon as I disconnect number 6 it will crank and start and run really rough. Is not driving even though I push the pedal slowly it will RPM up to no more than 1200 and then die if I keep going. If I leave it alone it will idle rough without shutting down. I don't feel comfy to let it run for too long, I did it twice so far about 10 min each. Man oh man, I could really use some help with my work schedule and so forth. Any other ideas? Good to hear from you. Do you still have the same truck?
Some of the codes are P2146,2149,0206 which stand for injector bank 1 and 2 low voltage and #6 injector disconnected or something like that. Also I get a high fuel pressure on the rail but I forgot the code. The oil didn't smell bad or anything out of the ordinary but it's more than a year old.

Do the simple stuff first... pull the rail sensor, MAP sensor, injector connectors and clean them. I recommend an acid brush, rubbing alcohol and some q-tips. Clean and check the battery connections and grounds. Take the batteries to 990 and swap them out with new red top optimas. (if you still have hook ups ;) )


I tell you what I'd do... I'd swap the #6 injector out with another one besides the #5... (after you clean the connectors/connections) If you still have the same problem, it's probably not an injector. It's not hard to do... if you need help, let me know and I can coach you through it. I can't come down this weekend, but next weekend I might be able to make it.

I still have the same truck, it's running like a top at the moment. I'm up in Columbia on AMOI duty.

What's the back story on this?

Long story short, summer 2013 I ran through a flood a couple of times. A week later I had a bunch of codes related to the transmission like P1755 and others. Changed some parts down there but two months later the truck stop completely. It would crank but not start. Forward a year later. I found the ECM to be corroded inside after I took it off and pried it open. Bought another one last month and that's when I was able to start it but it's acting like I said. I will do what you recommended. I just wait to get home. I'm stationed in Mayport with FRCSE. Travel back and forth every week. If you come down whenever you can, I'll have a room for you if a bunk bed it's ok. Columbia, SC?

I think this is going to be a wire chasing event...:doh:

Yeah, start with the simple stuff, but it sounds like you've got something more serious going on. If the truck has been sitting for a while, I'd change the fuel/filter and make sure the batteries and connections are good. Check the oil too, just make sure nothing crazy is going on with it. If you don't have a battery charger, I'd get one. Troubleshooting something like this is going to take a lot of key on type stuff, and it'll wear the batteries down quick.

I've been to Mayport a few times, it's a good time.

I'm trying to remember who you are from MALS... I've got nothin. Yes, Columbia, SC.

Ohm test the injector, if over 1 ohm or 0 ohms replace that injector and HPC tube. Compare that injector to all other injectors should be the same resistance for all.

I've ohmed the injectors after I disconnected all the wires. They all read around the same value 0.4 to 0.6. Installed a new Baldwin fuel filter. I've got Optima red tops less than a year old and they read over 14V but I'll get a charger anyways.

If your ecm was corroded, check the plugs for the ecm. You could have a couple corroded female pins in there, and that can cause all sorts of grief. Take a close look with lots of light and even a magnifying glass. It doesn't take much sometimes.

Yesterday I've changed the engine oil(Rottela T6 synthetic, Mopar filter), replaced the FCA with a brand new original Bosch, cleaned the rail pressure sensor using an ultrasonic bath for about 4 hours, the MAP sensor, and the other sensor that is located next to it. After that I've installed them back on. Measured the injector's ohms again. The reading was between 0.3-0.7 nothing stable, keeps oscillating. On #3 at first it gave me a 2.1 reading but that was for a fraction of a second and then it went down to 0.7 or so. The value goes up and down but not over 1 Ohm. Anyways, I tried to start the truck with all the gasket wires connected to all injectors and it didn't work. It cranked but not start. Batteries are good, 14.6 V both and connections are solid. Then again I've disconnected the wires on #6 and this time it started and again it runs rough but just a little, little better than last time. RPM stays at about 700 when in P or N but goes down to 600-650 when in R,D,2,1. Also when I switch from let's say R or D to P or N the RPM goes up to about 1200-1300 for a few good second and it tends to stay like that or even go a little higher unless I push the brake pedal and that seems to bring it down to 700 RPM.
Ok, codes. Before I started the truck I had P0206, P0088, P0148, P2146 and P0633. I've cleared them all, started and ran the truck for a minute and then the second reading was P0206, P2146 and P0633. 0206 stands for injector #6 control circuit, 2146 for fuel injector group A supply voltage circuit open because the #6 injector wires were disconnected, and 0633 for sentry key immobilizer module secret key not entered because I've replaced the ECU and most likely I have to program the key. By the way, how do I do that?
Question: How is the SKIM code affecting the way the truck runs?

If I try to drive the truck it won't go anywhere, I can push the fuel pedal all day long and it's not moving anywhere. When I switch from P to R or D it tends to move back or forward a little but that's about it. I thought having one or two bad injectors you would still be able to drive a little. Is this the SKIM thing not letting you drive?

Another observation: When in P or N and accelerating/ pushing on the fuel pedal, the RPM goes up, the engine is revving but when in R,D,2,1 is not revving at all, RPM goes down to 600 and it runs really rough. Why?

Wow, man... I've got nothing.

It's got to be some wiring that's messed up. The truck should move even if you have a dead cylinder.

Does the red light in the cluster go out? If it does the anti theft is not the problem. Also check the wiring harness for rubs in the usual spots. One other thing you could check is see if the number six injector ohms to ground.

Thank you ssteve58, the red light does go out but that 0633 skim code keeps coming back every time after I clear the codes. Like I said earlier the ECM was replaced recently with a remanufactured plug and play one from Auto Module Source. They said it was programmed with the latest updates and I don't have to do anything other than install, plug and drive. As for the #6, I will check them all as you say. Either way I have a very strong feeling that at least one injector is bad or very dirty and I'm set on taking them out and apart. I'll probably need to find a new OEM set at a reasonable price.