At 181,000 miles my clutch finally went.
Funny thing is I'm still on my original brake pads and rotors.

Did a complete clutch replace (didn't do the flywheel, removed the glaze)

NAPA Kit
Clutch Set
Disc Size: 13"-10-1 3/8" Diaphragm Type w/ Flat Flywheel w/ 6 Speed Transmission
Part #: NNC MU20231

Also replaced the clutch master cylinder and slave (need to trim, work the lines and air bleed - slight PITA):

NAPA Kit
Clutch Master Cylinder
Part #: NNC 800081

Clutch Slave Cylinder
Part #: NNC 900091


NAPA unit feel stronger than the stock one (pedal pressure alone), engages nice, smooth travel.

 

what was the price on that

 

thats impressive to be on original brakes... all highway or you just didnt touch brakes lol?

 

Not saying you do this... But I myself use to downshift all the time to slow down. I got so good at it I could slow down to 10-15mph before touching the brakes. A couple years later I was writing a check to my transmission guy for $1,500. I commented to him how it was funny/interesting how I needed a new clutch before a brake job. He was surprised too... then he asked me if I downshift often to slow down. I smiled back and said why yes I do, pretty good at it too. He said that was my problem. Then he politely reminded me that a brake job is much cheaper than a clutch job.

 

I guess you now know that downshifting is using the engine to brake and not the clutch. Just a slight change of procedure now that you know.

Cya

 

Yeah I never got the technique down to downshift without using the clutch. I could easily upshift from 3rd on up without the clutch, but always seemed to have the need to drop the clutch and downshift fast through the gears for slowing down.

Anyways because of my technique I never downshifted anymore after shelling out the money on a new clutch those many years ago. What my mechanic said just made sense for my driving style... as I can do a break job myself for $30 but not so true for a clutch job.

 

Try to refrain from this practice.

the synchronizers are 'locking' type in the 4500/5600 transmissions. Overtime this causes scratching of the synchronizer teeth, thereby the transmission will pop out of gear when not desired as the locking teeth will no longer be profiled.

Even when using the clutch these teeth wear. Best to keep oil changed and shifting with clutch the preferred practice.

 

Yes. I simply slow down early. Big Truck, Lots of weight. In my mustang I'm more spirited. I use the clutch to go through the gears from 6th, 5th and 4th. Use the brakes from there. I also rpm match the downshifts (little blip on throttle just before the clutch engages). Clutch lasted 180k, brakes still going strong.

 

I wasn't suggesting not using the clutch, just matching rpm so that the clutch is fully engaged and then let the engine do the work. I've seen so many people ride the clutch on the downshift and bring up the engine RPM that way

 

napaonline.com has prices on the web.

I did a little better buying from the local napa store.

Was out the door for just over 600.

 

napaonline.com has prices on the web.

I did a little better buying from the local napa store.

Was out the door for just over 600.

Dc charged for 8 hours labor at 80/hr

 

Keeping in my other post...

was experiencing A fluttering, floating and roaming idle. Truck would idle normal unless I blipped the throttle At which point idle would stick around 1000rpm+/-75 and flutter. The float/flutter would go away if all I did was come to a stop, or if any other drag was on the engine like ac compressor, fan engaged, or I dragged the clutch a little as if to pull out.

Fix:

software patch for the engine management computer: DC "low power flash", also fixes the 'dead pedal' associated with the last 1/4 if throttle depression. If you haven't had DC upload your rig with this flash... it's worth the price of Reflash.

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DC also had diagnosed my fuel rail pressure has dropped 5% below spec

replaced injectors at local cummins shop and had the valves adjusted.
$3500 out the door with cummins 12/12000 warranty. Cummins shop replaced injectors, nozzles, washers, etc, fuel filter, valve cover gasket. A1job.

Cummins garage cannot tap/read DC Ram cummins ngine computers.
They can replace parts: injectors, pumps, etc

----/-/-/

After injector run had a DC diagnostic run

everything within spec

hope info helps others.

 

I think a Jake brake would help you.