The truck is a 2006 5.9L AT 4x4 dually.

It overheats when pulling or hauling a load. The dealer says the fan clutch is controlled by the TIPPM (what is this???) and ECM together. They say there is a short somewhere in this circuit which doesn’t allow the fan clutch to engage. Their fix is to replace both these modules at $3,990.

Can someone elaborate on if this sounds accurate? If this really is true is it possible to hook up the fan clutch to a thermostat on the radiator so it engages when it gets to a certain temp? It’s a work truck that’s driven hard so even if the fan clutch was always engaged it wouldn’t bother me.

Thoughts???

 

I take it you are out of warranty. Might look into going with electric fans. There is a kit available that has two fans, a thermostat and all mounting hardware. Will run you around $500 and a few hours work. Read somewhere that it takes around 26 HP just to run that stock fan.

 

How hot does it get? If it's not much past 200, I wouldn't worry about it.

 

First thing to check is the wires that go to the fan clutch. They go beside the crank position sensor on the drivers bottom side of the engine. They are ran in a metal tube. Every once and a while you will hear someone who's fan has torn these wires out. Short circuits are the easiest to find. You need to find someone else to look at it. Whoever was stating it needs all of this without proper explination is just an easter egger (parts swapper) and I have had to clean up after a many of mess from these types of mechanics.

 

Set the fan up on a toggle switch and turn it on manually from inside the cab. It runs on ground and 5 amp circuit.

 

I would ask them what codes are setting and what tests they performed. If they can't give you that information I would suggest another dealership before you commit to any work to be done. Replacing these parts will not fix a short somewhere in this circuit

 

I am very currious on this thread as well.


My truck has started running hot under load and the fan is not engaging as well.

I would love some more feedback on this.

 

Can you explain how this is done?

How many wires go to the fan clutch and where do you find them?


Is the fan clutch allready grounded and then you just put power to it and it engages the clutch?

 

DIESEL

NOISE
NOTE: It is normal for fan noise to be louder (roaring) when:

Fan duty cycle high. This may occur when ambient (outside air temperature) is very high.
Engine loads and temperatures are high such as when towing a trailer.
Operating conditions where transmission temperatures may be high
Cool silicone fluid within the fan drive unit is being redistributed back to its normal disengaged (warm) position. This can occur during the first 15 seconds to one minute after engine start-up on a cold engine.

LEAKS
Viscous fan drive operation is not affected by small oil stains near the drive bearing. If leakage appears excessive, replace the fan drive unit.

ELECTRONICALLY CONTROLLED VISCOUS DRIVE - DIESEL

If the fan assembly does not free-wheel and a metallic grinding sound exists, replace the electronically controlled fan drive (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - REMOVAL).

NOTE: The following test may take up to 15 minutes to perform.

The engine should be at normal operating temperature.
1. Set the parking brake and verify the transmission is in park or neutral.
2. Set air conditioner (if equipped) and blower fan to OFF.
3. Start and allow engine to reach normal operating temperatures.
4. Stop engine, connect the scan tool and select appropriate model year and engine option.
5. Check for and correct existing DTC's
6. Using Tool 6801, backprobe pin 1 of the electronically controlled viscous fan drive connector, with the harness connected located at the lower fan shroud to battery ground .
NOTE: The fan drive control coil is energized to 12 volts at this time.

WARNING: A spark may occur when connecting pin to ground. Be sure that no combustible material is in the area.

7. Using the scan tool, verify that DTC 0480 set. If it is not set, verify that a good ground is available.
8. Start the engine.
9. Actuate engine speed to 2000 RPM..
10. Go to the SENSOR screen and observe the fan speed.
11. Run the engine at 2000 RPM until the fan speed increases to 1850 RPM or more for 30 seconds.
NOTE: Fan RPM may ramp up slowly.

NOTE: It maybe take 15 minutes before fan speed increases.

12. The fan speed should be in accordance to the table below.
13. If fan speed does not increase, make sure that the jumper wire has a good connection. If so replace the electronically control viscous fan drive.
14. If the fan speed does increase and there is still a concern, refer to the appropriate Engine Electrical Diagnosis Section to diagnosis the electronically controlled viscous fan drive control circuit.
CAUTION: If the viscous fan drive is replaced because of mechanical damage, the cooling fan blades should also be inspected. Inspect for fatigue cracks or chips that could result in excessive vibration. Replace fan blade assembly if any of these conditions are found.


ELECTRONICALLY CONTROLLED VISCOUS FAN DRIVE SPEEDS

ENGINE RPM - FAN RPM (Min)
1000 - 950
1500 - 1420
2000 - 1850
2500 - 2230

 

Check the bearings on the fan. This is what sometimes causes them to hit the wires.

I'd go with the electrics as mentioned above.

 

If the wires are not cut then the clutch has most likely failed. This failure is common on the 3rd gens.

Before you spend any money on it, look at the wires from underneath right next to the radiator. If not cut then I would say that there is better than a 95% chance the clutch has failed.

I paid $130 for my new clutch from NAPA (made in USA) and got the tools from Autozone (free use) to remove the fan. Less than a 2 hour job.

 

Engine overheat? Always check cooling system first, like thermostat, coolant level, coolant hoses, radiator coolant flow and air flow and of course the cooling fan operation.
My two cents.

 

My friend went through this on his '04. I believe what he did was use a fan clutch off a v10 and a 7.3 plastic fan. I don't know all the specifics but he got all the info from different forums.

 

The question was raised on how hot the truck was running and it will go in the red when the overheating symtom happens. Once we get the truck back I will check the wires and connections like suggested and according to the dealer the cooling system is in good shape.

I have decided to try and run the fan clutch with a toggle switch on the dash and power it from a lead directly off the battery. I assume I will get a bunch of error codes from the ECM by doing this but if it fixes the problem and doesnt cause any other issues then I am fine with the error codes.

Does anyone see issues arrising with this?

Thanks for your help and suggestions.

 

That may prove if the clutch is bad or not, but if it works shouldn't be a problem.