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?s on replacing 4x4 wheel bearing

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Old Sep 30, 2012 | 07:32 PM
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From: Portage County, Ohio
?s on replacing 4x4 wheel bearing

I have the early style wheel bearing lock nuts on my truck, still waiting for seals and getting that big ol' socket in my hands, but I can't seem to find any definite procedures for torquing down the 2 jam nuts and im curious as to which way i bend the tabs on the nut locking shim that goes in-between the 2 (bending away from the truck seems nigh impossible, but thats what i used to doing)
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Old Sep 30, 2012 | 07:57 PM
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From: Land of the Toxic Avenger
Installing the two piece nut is similar as the nylock

Seat the wheel bearings:

Tighten the nut while spinning the drum to 120 ft lbs. Back off the nut 120 degrees to set the freeplay. I believe it supposed to be near .008, but check the manual


Install the locking ring over the inner nut, making sure the nut doesn't change position, but don't bend the tabs yet.

Install the second nut till it just touches the locking ring. as it prevents the ring from distorting by using the second nut to prevent so. Set the first tab over the inner nut on the flattest location. Tighten the outer nut to ~100 ft lbs to 110 ft lbs, and set second tab over the outer nut.


Been doing it this way forever, and no issues yet.
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Old Sep 30, 2012 | 09:01 PM
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^Answered every question flawlessy, thank you!

Should be stickied....
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Old Sep 30, 2012 | 11:08 PM
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From: Land of the Toxic Avenger
Originally Posted by 91Hoopty
^Answered every question flawlessy, thank you!

..
Except for one thing I forgot.

The nylock nuts use a 2 9/16" spindle nut socket. The twin nuts and locking ring are installed with a 2 1/2" spindle nut socket. The 2 9/16 works, but it tends to round over the nuts when removing or installing.


I just bought a new twin set Dorman # 05306, and when I got it in the mail, I realized that my 2 9/16 socket was really sloppy on it, so I went to napa and bought their spindle nut socket # 4186, and it fit like it was supposed to. With tax the tool was $20, so it was a no brainer.
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Old Oct 2, 2012 | 08:46 PM
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SO I was gettin everything together finally and I realized, the gear that sits inside the lock-up housing (the one that slides over the splines of the axle) was completely removable from the housing itself, and seeing the groove along the OD of one end, Im pretty sure Im missing some kind of snap ring!

I haven't been able to find the ring my my normal means (google) so I hope someone might be able to throw a P/N at me. Also, how detrimental would it be if I drove like this till its fixed? No 4x4 duty obviously, just need my truck back damit
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Old Oct 2, 2012 | 11:53 PM
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From: Lloydminster SK/AB
Local snap ring store should have what you need, otherwise probably have to buy a warn lockout service kit.
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Old Oct 3, 2012 | 06:13 AM
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From: Land of the Toxic Avenger
Originally Posted by 91Hoopty
SO I was gettin everything together finally and I realized, the gear that sits inside the lock-up housing (the one that slides over the splines of the axle) was completely removable from the housing itself, and seeing the groove along the OD of one end, Im pretty sure Im missing some kind of snap ring!

I haven't been able to find the ring my my normal means (google) so I hope someone might be able to throw a P/N at me. Also, how detrimental would it be if I drove like this till its fixed? No 4x4 duty obviously, just need my truck back damit
Well, I'll be a monkey's uncle.

By your original description, I thought you were working on the rear axle. Now I realized you're working on the front hubs. your explanation led me to believe you were working on your rear axle that originally came with the nylock nut on it. The procedures for the front are different than what I stated above, so.... scratch that info I provided previously.


See attached.
Attached Thumbnails ?s on replacing 4x4 wheel bearing-dodge-front-brakes.jpg  
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