I run mine at 65psi in front and 55 in rear have good tire wear all around plus softer ride from rear at 55psi. When pulling camper air up rear to 75psi and good at that.The rear of our trucks are light and require less air when empty then having the heavy cummins over the front axle.

 

I have rotated my tires twice. All four tires are wearing on the outside edge. Why? And how do I correct it?

 

pogorules: Increase your tire pressure and take corners and curves slower.
phox: You have the best answer: common sense. (Hint for pogorules.)

In the road bike world (motorized, but not racing), common wisdom is to use the 10% rule. This is to check your tire pressure, front and rear, cold and then after a long drive. Your pressure should have increased 10%. If more, you need more initial pressure. If less, you need less pressure. Trial and error until you get it right, and of course it varies summer to winter. This ensures the optimum contact patch, is neither over or underinflated, and compensates for non-standard tires and various loads. (Different pressure for each load by trial and error.)

Has anybody tried this on a CTD or have an opinion? (lol) Obviously, if you end up with an initial pressure exceeding the sidewall number you need higher capacity tires. I could consider changing the rule to 5% for our heavy trucks.

 

I remember a thread about inflation and someone stated the idea to draw a chalk line across the tire, run on them a few miles, and see how they wear. I have the 265/75 LR E, and i will let them go down to around 70psi, empty. Anytime i hook my gooseneck up, i make sure i am at 80psi (max on sidewall) on all 4.

I am a huge fan of getting my tires rotated and balanced. I do so about every 6,000-7,000 miles (wife is always making fun of me). What is the best way to rotate tires? Discount always does it front to back and no side swapping. For some reason i think there is a better way.

 

Discount Tire recommends rotation and balance at 4000 to 5000 miles. They don't complain if you take it in more often. I give them a visit after every long trip, 3-4000 miles.

I believe diagonal rotation is best unless you have directional tires or Firestones. Swapping sides causes the tire to rotate in the opposite direction which will smooth out irregular wear caused by braking. In the early years of radial tires they said you couldn't do this but tire technology has evolved considerably and now it's allowed. For Firestones, swap them out for some other brand.

 

Rotation, roatation, we don't need to stinking rotate.......

For rear wheel drive :
rotate driver rear to passenger front
passenger front to passenger rear
passenger rear to driver front
driver front to driver rear

I only rotate my tires if the front start to show severe shoulder wear. I have 23,000 on the original Michelin's and they still look new.

Point to remember, never go below Load Range E on Diesel Rams. Load Range D can get you in trouble if your involved in an accident. As for just listen to what the guy at the Tire store says.....I have had too many broken studs from using air guns instead of torque wrenches and there is no way I am going to put my family at risk because the guy at the tire store said, "look at the deal we have on these tires!" There is a reason there on sale.

Tim

 

I run 50 in the front (max tire pressure) and 45 in the rear. I've had load range D on my truck since it had 6K miles on it. I've currently got 55K on it. I've never had a problem with it. My dad has had load range D before on his old truck and we used it to tow a 3 horse gooseneck weighing in at close to 10K fully loaded and he never had any problems with his tires (other than me power braking them and wearing them down sooner ). We would just inflate the back one's up to 50 psi (max cold pressure) and they would be fine. You would hardly notice the sidewall flexing. He ran both BFG All terrain's and Goodyear Wrangler AT/S that way. Both in a 33x12.50 size.

 

Point being is that if your door placard says Load Range E and you knowingly run Load Range D and you are involved in an accident, you could be held liable if a good lawyer gets involved. I believe the tires will perform as expected, its strictly a legal thing. Trust me, tire companies and people get sued for every little detail. You are putting yourself at risk, regardless of what the Tire store employee (former Walmart employee) says.

No flame intended. Just trying to provide helpful info.

 

I was in a heated debate on a offroad site once and ,A engineer from Goodyear went through all the Max -min tire inflations and basically over a lengthy post stated , Depending on what you haul and how much your vehicle weighs ,basically this is all judged by how much tire is touching the ground , He stated tires are tested on a weight only scale. So these were his instructions , If you place a normal business card under the outside edge of your tire on smooth ground ,You should have 1/4 of the card slide under the tire edge . Sounds stupid but if you think about it depending on the compound ,temp etc, this is how much thread should be on the ground. If you think this is BS then i guess you never used Plastigauge.
Just my .02 worth ..

 

using the paper chart at the time of purchase, in glove box. i have run since new.
'99 QC 4x4 70-75 front, 60-65 rear when empty or light load, and upped the rears to 75 when towing. First set of factory tires replaced at 72k, still legal but winter time. Current set of mich have 60k and still have lots of tread. Look at the tire preasure charts included in glove box. remember to do the add for 4x4, qc, and diesel.....

 

GEEZ! you guys make me feel as if im really under-inflated! with my particular truck, running D-range 285/75 16 ive run the factory recommended tire pressure that came in the owners manual supplement but was constantly wearing out the centers of my tires due to over-inflation. nowadays, i try to stick with about 42-44 psi front and 40 psi rear(unloaded,not towing). anything less makes the truck feel too ''soggy'' in the turns. and at this inflation i still show signs of center wear on all 4 tires but it isnt nearly as bad. where i live, im constantly in 4wd just to get home and my roads are so rough that when i inflate to pressures above this it really rides rough! and constantly tries to go sideways on washboard sections of road. as far as tire sidewall inflation numbers, i have a friend who just bought an '04 1500 shortbed hemi who complained about a severely harsh ride on his 20'' wheels. i asked him ''how much air do you run in those tires?'' he said ''i dunno-i aired them up to what it said on the sidewall''. so, i kindly directed him to his drivers side door where it tells him to run 35psi std load. and he proceeded to remove about 30 psi.

 

According to some of you I run my tires flat. I have the OEM 285 Michelin's and empty I run 55 in front and 45 in the back. Depending of load I could go up to the max pressure indicated on the sidewall.
At the lower pressures every time I stop for fuel after running at speed I place the back of my hand on every tire where the tread meets the sidewall and use this as a rough check for high temps. At no time have I ever felt any temps other than very slightly warm, which is what I would expect after driving for hours at 70-80 mph on a 80 degree day.
I use a digital tire press gauge and check my tire pressures regularly.