On a 1998.5 2500 4x4 24-Valve CTD<br><br>Running LT245/75/16 (Factory Size) Load Range E Bridgestone Dueler A/T Revo's On Stock SLT Wheels.<br><br>At 80 p.s.i, they can carry their max load.<br><br>But what pressure should I be running for just regular stuff? We have all four inflated to 65psi now.<br><br>BTW, we picked these tires after much research. They are better than the Michelin LTX M/S in ride comfort and traction. Treadwear is suppose to be right there with the Michelins...only time will tell.<br><br>Thanks,<br><br>Justin.<br><br>

 

I run the bfg's on the front at 75 and the michelin xps's on the rear at 80.that way i have a little softer ride on the front

 

I prefer the other way around.<br><br>65 front and 55 rear.<br><br>Bed is almost always empty, except for a bit of the white stuff currently, and I tow nothing.<br><br>Any less in the front, and it seems squirrley, any more in the rear and it bounces around too much.<br><br>Stock Michelins with 80 max rating.<br><br><br>phox

 

Its always been recommended by tire company's to inflate the tires to pressures printed on the tire sidewall...you can adjust pressure downward from that if you watch your tire wear<br><br>I always inflate to the sidewall pressure and leave it at that and have never had any trouble with wear or ride....also if you have a slow leak its hard to remember if you lowered the pressure or not but by staying at recommended pressure if its low then you have a leak<br><br>I have been involved in tire company surveys when they come into a fleet of trucks and trailers.....first thing they do is check all tires for sidewall pressure then check the pressure in the tire at no time is a lower pressure allowed if its 10 psi low then its considered a flat tire......my .02cents

 

I am running the standard for the door card of 65 front and 80 rear. I may go 65 on all 4 depending on my towing schedule.

 

We're runnin aftermarket 285's, D rated, 65 psi max.
Depending on axle weights, towing weights, and time of year, we vary pressures between a bit lower, and max. A front/rear stagger is a must, in my opinion, according to axle weight. Less weight = a few less psi. Ususlly no more than 4-6 on a stone stock weight bias.
Get some white butcher paper, check contact patch, and watch tire wear between rotations. Just had to bring a set up from low 50's to closer to 60, as some wear was noticed that would indicate an underinflation vs. axle weight issue.
Long trips, high speeds/ambient temperatures, heavy weights all demand max pressures on a D rated tire. They are more than adequate for most of us, however.
This takes some trial and error. Keep a close eye, rotate front to rear, same side, and err on the side of higher pressure, not exceeding max. You should see longer life, and better performance from your tires.

 

Rear pressure is not as important loaded light but my truck will take the outside edges off the front tires if I run them at anyting but max. 65 pounds will eat my tires up rapidly.

 

Truck empty weighs 7000 lbs. E tire holds 3000 lbs. each at 80 psi x 4 = 12000 lbs. 45 rear-50 front would be just about right empty. Loaded weighs 8800 lbs. 60 front-65 rear psi loaded.<br>Rick

 

In the spring/summer/fall I run all of them at 80psi because i'm usually hauling the fiver every weekend or close too it! I have been running them all at 65psi now thru the winter. <br><br>Tony

 

Sorry Pappyman, but you are incorrect.....<br><br>&quot;Its always been recommended by tire company's to inflate the tires to pressures printed on the tire sidewall...you can adjust pressure downward from that if you watch your tire wear&quot;<br><br>....The sidewall inflation pressures printed/molded in the tires are the MAX. allowable inflation pressure, not the prefered running pressure. You should follow the Tire Placard on the vehicle, usually the drivers side door. <br><br>As for fleet testing for Tire Companies....They are required to run Max inflation (or a specified tire pressure given to them by the Tire Design Engineer) to give worst case senario of tread wear vs. construction failure.<br><br>A note about TreadWear printed/molded into the sidewall of the tire..commonly know as UTQG...you will almost always find this printed on passenger tires not Light Truck Tires like we run on the Rams. On Light Truck tires you will see &quot;Load Range C, D, E&quot;. This only means that the tire, under controlled conditions, will meet the minimum characteristics required by the TRA (Tire and Rim Association) or by JATMA (The JAPAN Automobile Tire Manufactueres Association, INC.). Each of these requirements are specific about Inflation pressures and load and may vary for single vs. dual applications.<br><br>For example:<br><br>TRA says for LT265/75R16:<br>inflation vs. load single<br>35 psi (1960 lbs)<br>45 psi (2225 lbs)<br>50 psi (2470 lbs) load range c<br>60 psi (2730 lbs)<br>65 psi (3000 lbs) load range d<br>75 psi (3175 lbs)<br>80 psi (3415 lbs) load range e<br><br>inflation vs. load dual<br>35 psi (1785 lbs)<br>45 psi (2025 lbs)<br>50 psi (2270 lbs) load range c<br>60 psi (2490 lbs)<br>65 psi (2755 lbs) load range d<br>75 psi (2885 lbs)<br>80 psi (3085 lbs) load range e<br><br>What this all means is that a given LOAD RANGE will have maximum inflation and weight characteristics. The Rams should always run Load Range E, never, never anything below that requirement. Your inflation should be what the door placard says. My 2002 came with a special supplemental tire folder in the glove box for a given inflation/load you may experience. Of course loaded you should run higher inflation than when empty. Just remember the ordeal with Bridgestone/Firestone on Ford Explorers....low inflation generates heat and heat causes tread belt to tread rubber seperation and eventually tire failure.<br><br>Man that was way too much tire information...but hope it helps.<br><br>Tim

 

I run 65 psig all around. If I tow heavy, I'll run the rears up to around 75.

 

That's a hard question to answer. It really depends on what truck you have, what you use it for and what type of tires your running. I run mine on the low side as it rarely sees highway speeds and is always empty. Something like 50 front, 42-45 rear. Tread life appears to be the best at that for me. If I were to run highway speed for any length of time and/or be loaded then definately increase the pressure. I just find that the rear bounces around too much using any higher pressure (again for my situation). Keep in mind that running a little higher pressure is better for &quot;all around on/off highway speed &amp; towing/loaded&quot; use as you'll keep the tires cooler at speed and have a lower chance of a blow out. That's important - I don't think my roof will hold 6,400 pounds if a tire lets go.

 

The pressures on the drivers door normally work ok....but not if you run a size tire thats not on the door....the best source for tire pressures are from the dealer that sold you the tire....pressures lower then recommended can cause the tire to heat and possible blow out at highway speeds....since I pull heavy loads I keep my tires at max rated pressures and have found good tire wear at those pressures<br><br>You need to experiment with your pressures to find whats best for your use and watch your tread wear for signs of uneven wear and under inflation is worst then over inflation....under inflation can cause stress at the sidewall flex point after time this flex point can become weak and cause a blow out which is what may have happened in the Firestone Recall a few years ago<br><br>I thump my tires everytime I fuel and I put a gauge on them every 30 days....just my .02cents

 

Sounds like you have a better plan than most Pappy. Unfortuneately, most people seldom check their tire pressures. They don't realize that you have approx. an 8in contact patch at each wheel. Not much for a 7,000 lb truck.<br><br>The problem with the Firestone tires were not, in my opinion, as much a problem with the tires as a problem with the inflation placard on the Explorers. The placard has been changed to higher pressures. What happen was that the tires were being run under recomended inflation and were creating heat that in turn caused the tire to seperate the tread from the carcuss between the belts. Tires that are maintained properly will very seldom fail. I hope everyone here keeps a check on theirs. After all, the Rams are 7,000lb monsters.<br><br>Tim

 

[quote author=latitud_rt link=board=5;threadid=11483;start=0#109792 date=1046372784]
The problem with the Firestone tires were not, in my opinion, as much a problem with the tires as a problem with the inflation placard on the Explorers. The placard has been changed to higher pressures. What happen was that the tires were being run under recomended inflation and were creating heat that in turn caused the tire to seperate the tread from the carcuss between the belts. Tires that are maintained properly will very seldom fail. I hope everyone here keeps a check on theirs. After all, the Rams are 7,000lb monsters.

Tim
[/quote]

Ditto, Ditto, Ditto.
Ford trying to cover their buttocks and prevent rollovers.

The in door placard is at best a starting point.
Mine didn't even come with the same tires as stated on it.
You might as well just pretend the placard isn't there if you get bigger or smaller tires.

Go with a bit of the sidewall numbers, visual inspection, ride quality, weight carried and you can't go wrong.

Visual inspection being:
Does the tire look bulgy, put more are in it.
Is it wearing in the middle more than the edges, let some air out.
Is it wearing on the edges more than the middle, add some air.
Is it wearing more on inside than outside edge, get the front end alligned.

A little common sense goes a long way.

phox