Yep, I did it. Flushed the cooling system, got all the old green out, water till clear, drained it, and refilled with the Red "Death Cool".

I've read all the posts I could find on the topic. Here and on other websites. It's amazing to read all the various opinions and how much the information varies. The price of the red was about the same as the green. I have used the red in other vehicles with no problems at all. I have seen the inside of 5 year old water pumps with the red stuff and they look brand new. I'm sure the same could be said with a properly maintained cooling system using the green as well.

I guess I went with the red because it is what I am most familiar with. Now tell me why I should not have used it.
Kevin

 

I swapped all my vehicles to red (orange) when they were due. No problems noted.

Cooling systems tend to get abused (not changed per schedule), so I think ya did the right thing using the 5 year stuff.

 

Thats exactly why I switched. That and the supposed increase in lubrication quality in the red stuff for longer life to the water pump. That and better corrosion resistence.

I was amazed at how much contradiction there is out there on this topic, and I really based my decision on my past experiences more than anything. My biggest concern was the "damage the red stuff will do to certian seals" and I understand that this was a problem a few years ago. I have also learned that the antifreeze manufacturers have corrected this with other/more additives.

I have also read that there was only two manufacturers of coolant in the US, and one of them burned down awhile back. So if that statement is true, then all coolant made in the US comes from the same place, regardless of what brand it is. Interesting.

BTW I was unable to locate the drain plug on the block for the water jacket (if there is one). Anybody know where this is located? I did have some residual water in there, so I am gonna drain a little off and add new at a 60% coolant to 40% water ratio to help compensate for any dilution. I know I am wasting a little, but I'll sleep better at night.

Is there any way to tell concentration levels with one of those coolant testors??? Or do they just tell you "good and bad"? Thanks, Kevin

 

The coolant tester will give you a mix ratio and convert it to hot/cold potection degrees. The red is still ethylene glycol based.

Check your manual for how much capacity is in the cooling system (36 quarts???). You should install half of that in full strength red for 50:50 ratio.

Typically the radiator is half the system capacity. So if you flush out the old, drain the radiator and fill with full strength...you end up at 50:50.

I saw Shell has Rotella extended interval coolant for diesels, but it's premixed.

On my Ford I ran the regular red and added two bottles of PenRay additive. Supposedly the Fords had a problem with cavitation (air bubbles) that would eat trough the cylinder liners. the Penray additive was supposed to solve that problem. I haven't heard of this with the Cummins motor...anyone???

 

Cummins doesn't have the cavitation problem that the Fords do (did?).

 

I asked Prestone if their stuff was ok for my truck. Here was their reply:


Thanks again for your contact. We apologize for the mis-understanding. We were assuming that you were looking for a top-off because your recommended change interval is still further down the road. For coolant replacement, however, we would recommend sticking with the manufacturers blend. Prestone offers the Extended Life Antifreeze as a good top-off formula but has not officially recommended it for full replacement in diesel applications. In the future, however, we may make some changes and offer it as a full replacement.

Once again, we are sorry for the confusion.

Prestone

 

I'll bet that response (from prestone) is geared to what DPG said. I think I read something about cavitation problems and the extended life stuff with the Fords and Chevy's, but not the almighty cummins!
Kevin