Anyone have suggestions on which rust converter to use? I am trying to clean and paint rust little by little as I live in upstate NY and I would like my truck to last for a long time!! I tried rust o leum primer by itself and the rust came through after a couple weeks (yes I did scrape and sand it before painting). I am also currently experimenting with VHT brand rust converter and rust o leum rust reformer. I sprayed the rust o leum for the first time today and I like the way it covers a lot better than the VHT. However, I don't know how they will hold up. Anyone have any experiences(good or bad) to share?

 

I used this on my boat trailer and it worked great. I put it in a pump type weed spray bottle and sprayed it on. I also used on Motor home frame and suspension worked very well there.

Rust Converter Gallon

 

How long did it take for the rust to work its way through again? Or has it been a permenant solution?

 

I'd like to know as well. The last stuff I used only hid the rust and didn't stop it. The only thing I found that worked was to completely remove the rust first, then seal the metal.

 

When I lived on the Gulf Coast, all my boat trailers got coated with OSPHO. Seems it was about $150 a gallon, but it was some awesome stuff. Never had trouble with rust recurring and trailers only got washed as a result of the boats getting hosed down. When I do the frames of my 78 Magnum and the 89 D350, that's what I will use.

 

It neutralizes the rust and turns it into primer, then you can paint over it.

 

I have had good luck with Gemplers rust converter. Just brushed it on, no prep other then steam cleaning the frame first. Two years now and still no rust. Did top coat with rustoleum spray paint.

 

I use Jasco Prep and Prime for my tractor and mower deck. I paint it on and let it sit for ~1 hr then hose it off and spray paint over it.
It turns the rust black and converts it to some other form of oxide that won't keep corroding. A lot of those rust reformer paints have something like it but because they are a paint I feel they don't stay wet on the rust long enough to be effective.
You can watch the orange rust turn colors over time and tell that it itakes longer than the couple of minutes the the sprays stay wet.
Be careful though, that acid doesn't like galvanized stuff, the zinc reacts a lot faster than iron.

 

IF you clean it well- let it dry out first.

I recommend using POR15 instead of a rust convertor. Very good product.
I had always used extend for a rust convertor. I always felt it would get down in seams better. Treat some seams prior to sand blasting.

Michael

 

Ospho

Its only $30 a gallon. http://www.worldpaintsupply.com/osph...tal-treatment/

Its phosphoric acid, converts iron oxide to iron phosphate. Turns rust black. Apply with a spray bottle or pump sprayer. Wear a respirator, its acid, and it will burn and make you cough if you inhale the mist.
Phosphoric acid is what is used in many rust converters like Naval Jelly, etc.

Then paint with POR15, Rust Bullet, Or rustoleum RMP, etc.

 

phosphoric acid based rust treatments like 'must for rust' and 'fast etch' work good. But youll need to scrub the area down first.
let that stuff sit on the area for awhile, then clean it with solvent and paint over it.
Id use 'fluid film' and a spray gun with a flexible wand on all the underbody stuff to keep the water away. you can spray it inside fenders, rockers, cab corners, etc.
Its a dirty job but if you do it once every couple years there should be no rust coming from behind the bodywork.