removing rear disk brake rotors
I wish I was as fine, as those who work the pipeline!
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,639
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From: Wyoming



There is a solution to it. It might be in the wiki, or the FAQ's. Can't remember where. Do a search. I'll see if I can find it too.
http://wiki.dieseltruckresource.com/...ng_Brake_Rotor
I just went through this. In the end a BFH was the key. Obviously remove all that needs to be removed. Then what ended up working for me after I used oil and heat since my first hammer didn't do it. I got a bigger hammer then would whack it turn it a bit (the backing plate was in the way and only had one little space to hit it in) and whack it again. I think the relatively even whacking pressure made the difference. That way the rotor doesn't get bound up on its way off. It still took a while but after a few hits and turns I could definitely tell it seemed to be working. I can say that since I was replacing my rotors I didn't care if they got damaged and they did as I hit the heck out of them.
When I removed the rear my rear rotors, I didn't have to take the rear hub apart. I have learned that if a rotor is uncooperative, spray liquid wrench or wd40 around lug stud holes, let sit for a few minutes. Make sure e-brake is off and with the truck on jack stands, put trans in neutral. I use a small piece of a wooden 2x4 and a big hammer. Rotate the rotor as it starts to pound off. Eventually they all give up..
The point that is lost in this thread is that 3500 pickups with discs, the disc actually bolts to the hub. You have to remove the rotor/hub assembly and then unbolt it from behind. They don't slip over like on the 2500's.
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