I bought the slave cylinder ugrade someone suggested and am ready to do it this weekend. I just want to make sure I have it all down.

Question 1: I want to replace the rear shoes while I am at it so do I (or should I) turn the drums? They were turned once at 80k and I have 150k now.

Question 2: Are they auto adjust or do I have to manually adjust once I put the new slave cylinder and shoes on?

Question/request 3: I am going to flush the entire brake system as well and I know the basic proceedure (I did it once on my dirtbike) but if anyone has any tips they can share I would greatly appreciate it.

Greg

 

I too am interesting in doing this. I read in a post that that 3500 brake pads would fit a 2500 for better stopping power, is this true? I have never tackled the rear brakes on my truck, so I'm a little hesitant to get everything taken apart in the garage and not be able to get it back together again. If someone could help out with a step by step on installing the GM wheel cylinders, checking and or replacing brake shoes and adjusting the parking brake and shoes it would be greatly appreciated! Also, I have no idea what to do with the rear brake load sensor, can I adjust this to improve braking as well?

 

Here is the orignal post about this topic. It sounds really simple and there is also another recent post as well.

Cylinder post

 

This is a cheap, but awsome upgrade.

1) I would turn them if they are out of round or scored, otherwise NO.

2)You will probably need to adjust them, if you turn the drums and put in new shoes you WILL have to adjust them.

3)Get a factory service manual, but I start by gravity bleeding them until "Clean" fluid is runnig out of the bleeders, do all at the same time. Then I have an assistant hold pressure on the pedal until it hits the floor, tighten up the bleeder, pump up the pedal, loosen the bleeder and repeat. I start right rear, left rear, right front, left front.

I don't think the rear brake shoes interchange, to remove the wheel cylinder you loosen the two bolts securing them to the backing plate, then loosen the brake line going into it, then remove. The brake drum must be removed, the wheel cylinder has to have the push pins pulled out.

See post below!! Titled "GM wheel cylinders put in today........day and night!!!!!"

 

Thanks for the reply and sounds like great information!

Greg

 

Is gravity bleeding just removing the brake line and letting the fluid pour out while filling the resevoir?

 

All lines should be connected, but you leave the calipers and/or wheel cylinders open, the master cylinder needs to be open and you MUST watch and be sure to keep it full of fluid or you might get some air into the system and have to start all over again.

 

Just to make sure I have it down.

Open all bleeder valves and let it run until clean fluid comes out?

Sorry about being dense, this is my first flush and or bleeding on a car

 

yup, then do the pedal thing with an assistant

 

Best way to do any brake job is one side at a time, that way you have a "diagram" on how it goes back together. About the only special tool that I find handy is a pair of Vice-Grip needle nose pliers for stretching the springs off.
The way I adjust brakes is easy. With the wheel and tire back on rotate the star wheel under the rubber cap on the back of the brake housing, it will only turn one way easily. Spin the tire while turning the star wheel, when the brakes first start rubbing stop, you're done. Some people back the star wheel off a click or so when it first starts rubbing, waste of time, first time you press on the bakes the shoes will shift and the rubbing will be gone.
You shouldn't have to adjust the parking brake.

 

I changed the slave cylinders without removing the shoes. Do one side at a time so you have a "correct" one to look at to make sure the springs are in the right place.

I had a vibration for about 200 miles or so then the shoes broke in and the vibration stopped. Best $30 I ever spent

 

{{{{{{Then I have an assistant hold pressure on the pedal until it hits the floor, tighten up the bleeder, pump up the pedal, loosen the bleeder and repeat. I start right rear, left rear, right front, left }}}}}}}}}} NOTE:::: Do not let the pedal go all the way to the floor, just as far down that the pedal normaly goes, going further you run the risk of costly maintnance on your master cylinder, I would recommend and I use a bleeder kit from the local parts house, it is a do it yourself with no pumping and is less messy. Goodluck,,,Rick