i have a 2001 and i put my bulb in wrong an it slid out and melted the inside of the headlight. so im thinkin bout just gettin different headlights all together. was wonderin who all has projector headlights an how do you like em? and wheres a good website to look for aftermarket headlights? thanks.

 

would look at doing the sport conversion before wasting money on projectors. not many have like the projectors with your year they are completeley changeable. get 2 sport light buckets a wire harness from www.suvlights.com. and its just plug and play pulls the power from the batteries not the light switch and you will have 2 4007's and 2 4005's on during low beam and both on with high beam. I loved mine when I changed I bought my lights on ebay. do some searches if you haven't on sport light conversion.

 

I changed my '95 headlights to Sport Headlights about 7 years ago, and I couldn't believe the difference. There is MUCH more light--it's a much safer night out there now.

I installed the Depo Sport headlight units, and they are still in pretty nice shape. I wired mine up with plenty of relays and new wiring and I soldered all the connections. It's one of the best things I've done to my truck.

 

x3 on the sport lights! way better lights

 

X4 on the sports. Simply amazing difference. I used the harness on danielsternlighting.com. Not sure if you know (i didn't) headlights on our trucks are negatively switched so the wiring is a bit different. I had to rebuild my wiring harness, but I got a lot of soldering and heat shrink practice.

 

ok so when you say sport i assume you mean from a truck with the sport package? sounds like the way to go. thanks.

 

here is an e-mail sent to me by Daniel Stern it has alot of info.



The 1-bulb headlamps (9004 only) are hopeless. So are all the aftermarket lamps for these trucks -- they're all junk.

Put in a set of the '99-'01 Dodge Ram 1500 Sport headlamps, which are
*much* better than the lamps all non-Sport '94-'02 style Rams got. The
Sport lamps use two bulbs per side (a 9007 high/low and a 9004 high-only)
and produce much more effective, longer and wider, better focused beam
patterns. They physically fit right in, but require some wiring
adaptation, which is just as well since the factory wiring tends to starve
the bulbs.

You need:

-a set (left and right) of the '99-'01 Dodge Ram 1500 Sport headlamps. Get
the real ones from the dealer or www.chryslerpartsdirect.com , not the
Taiwanese knockoffs from eBay or elsewhere on the internet. Factory part
numbers are as follows:

Headlamp, left: 55077 025AC
Headlamp, right: 55077 024AC
Park/turn lamp, left: 55077 033AC
Park/turn lamp, right: 55077 032AC

(The original park/turn lamps can be used with the new headlamps; I've
listed the Sport type park/turn units because their clear-lens design
matches that of the Sport headlamps. Also note that the above numbers may
from time to time be updated or superseded as noted when you do a part
number search on chryslerpartsdirect.com - go ahead and buy whatever the
latest part number is).

-A Dodge Ram conversion wiring and relay installation package RIK-RAM, $79
here.

The installation package includes all necessary plugs, sockets, terminals,
fused fuseholders, relays, relay brackets, terminal blocks, etc. --
everything except actual wire -- to install the new headlamps _and_
eliminate the voltage drop present in the factory-type wiring, without
cutting the truck's original wires. For general information about relay
installation, see
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/t...ys/relays.html Note that
RIK-RAM is not a harness, it is a parts kit. You start with the truck's
unmodified original headlamp circuit, none of which will need to be cut or
otherwise brutalized, supply your own wire and time, and the end result is
a heavy-duty headlamp harness that operates the Sport lamps *correctly*
and without voltage drop, in a non-Sport Ram truck.

-A set (two 9007 and two 9004) of ultra high efficacy bulbs.

Far and away the best 9007 bulbs presently on the market are the Philips Xtreme Power items:
http://store.candlepower.com/bfcopo90hbpo1.html

The best 9004s are the GE Night Hawk 9004NH items, which you can get from www.amazon.com .

Do not buy blue or "extra white" bulbs (Silver Star, Crystal Vision, TruView, Hoen, PIAA, etc.); despite the heavy advertising push and claims of "brighter and whiter" light, they actually produce _less_ light due to the blue glass they use.

Regarding the Sport lamps themselves: There is only one proper operational
setup for these lamps, and that is as follows-

Low beam mode: Low beam filament of outboard 9007 bulb on, all other
filaments off.

High beam mode: High beam filament of outboard 9007 and high beam filament
of inboard 9004 on, all other filaments off.

The low beam filament of the inboard 9004 is not used -- these lamps do
not have optics to focus the light from it.

In NO case are the low beam and high beam filaments on together!
Two-filament headlight bulbs are pressurized to about 10 atmospheres COLD.
They are not designed to handle the heat (or the current on the common
filament support lead) of running both filaments at the same time for more
than very brief periods during beam changeover or headlight flashing.
Doing so carries the very real risk of the bulb grenading inside the
headlamp, destroying it. Some people who think they're clever wire it up
this way anyhow, and the "Brite Box" people have made a business out of
this "clever" (not) modification.

If yours is a Canadian-spec truck (either by original manufacture or by private importation), or you're not in Canada but have had the Daytime Running Light function enabled, you will need to rework the daytime running lamps. The stock DRL configuration runs the high beam circuit at reduced duty cycle. This is not compatible with any kind of relay installation. http://www.lightsout.org/disable.html#Dodge has info. Once you have installed the new headlamps, you need to re-enable the DRLs.

Re-enabling (or adding) DRLs:

If you are interested in having (or keeping, after you install headlamp relays) a daytime running light function on your vehicle, the best implementation is the full-time operation of the front directional signals (except, of course, when they are operating as signals). Directional signals produce a light distribution with a wide conspicuity angle, are generally well located for DRL service at the outboard edges of the front of the vehicle, consume considerably less
power than any headlamp-based DRL implementation, use light sources of generally much longer life than any headlamp bulb, do not encourage improper nighttime use of lights, and do not require additional lighting devices to be added. Most recent Cadillacs, Chevrolet/GMC large vans and minivans, some Chrysler, Toyota, and Lexus models, certain new Lincolns and assorted other vehicles use this implementation. Note we are talking about the full-time operation of the bright amber turn signals, not the dim parking lamps. Turn signal DRLs comply with US and Canadian Motor Vehicle Safety Standards #108 and are approved in all states, provinces, and territories. You can easily enable this functionality in your vehicle using a DRL-1 module ($42 here, see http://dastern.torque.net/Mods/DRL/DRL1.html )

 

this would be the main reason to do the upgraded wiring, most folks add higher wattage bulbs trying to overcome the poor output from the headlights (myself included!) main problem is the small wiring and voltage loss, at the bulbs.... after doing the wiring mod, I no longer have the dim/brighting of the headlights as you step on the throttle and the RPM comes up, lights are NOTICABLY brighter, I never did check to see how much Voltage was at my bulbs when I had the stock wiring, but I bet it was under 12V, as you can see by the chart a loss of 2V is a 50% drop in light output! (12.8 being battery voltage)

10.5V : 510 lumens
11.0V : 597 lumens
11.5V : 695 lumens
12.0V : 803 lumens
12.5V : 923 lumens
12.8V : 1000 lumens ←Rated output voltage
13.0V : 1054 lumens
13.5V : 1198 lumens
14.0V : 1356 lumens ←Rated life voltage
14.5V : 1528 lumens

 

I made a homemade plug (used old light bulb, after breaking bulb off, then soldering wires to the old pins) this allows plumbing into stock wiring without cutting any stock wiring

 

I have projector beam headlights and HATE THEM.

Ordered the sport headlights from Headlight Depot, should get them on Tuesday!

 

I almost got tricked into getting the projector beams--I emailed an ebay vendor who was selling them and asked if each housing held 1 bulb or 2 bulbs (like my Sport Headlights). He replied that each Projector housing held 2 bulbs, which is not true. I was sceptical and eventually was able to see a picture of the Projectors which showed only 1 bulb.

 

Is there anyone that has a link instructing how to properly remove the light buckets? I have not spent a whole lot of time looking but they do seem to be fairly cramped in there. I'm really sick of my weak, stock lights.

 

split headlights from the buckets, way easier. then lots of gentle angle finding

 

Let me know what you think of the quality of these lights, I am curious and thinking about ordering a pair.

Thanks

 

Will do.

Waiting for the harness from Daniel Stern. So far the process there has been.. slow..

Was hoping to get it by this weekend, it never showed.

Here's a couple of shots of one of the lights straight out of the box: