I fumbled my way (successfully?) through replacing my rear brake drums on my 1996 CTD 2500. I started out relying on my Chiltons and failed. The board here got me through the actual shoe replacement and then I ordered a $100 factory manual so I could be self-contained going forward. When I got my manual I tried to use it to adjust my parking brake. The procedure outlined in the manual doesn't seem to work (the tensioner rod is supposed to move in relation to the tensioner bracket) but does not. I can strum on the two rear wheel cables to guesstimate the comparative tension. Anyone have a better answer?

 

I have always adjusted the parking brake by adjusting the rear shoes on the drum brakes.
Never by adjusting the cables.
With the drums off, I adjust several clicks tighter then try to slide the drum back on.
If it goes easily, I adjust up a couple of more clicks.
I do this until it's tight trying to slide the drum on, then back off two clicks.
slide the drum on, then button everything back up and go for a spin around the block.
You'll know pretty quickly if they're dragging.

 

I did the same thing on previous occasions but I guess the cables on mine started to stretch because even after pulling the rotors off and grinding the "rust ridge" off of the inside the e-brake still went to the floor. I adjusted the nut on the cable about 1/4" to 1/2" tighter and it made all the difference in the world but never caused any drag on the drums. Basically, as these trucks get up there in age it's becoming necessary to tweak the cables as well.

John