I have a lightweight Capri 8' camper (1200# according to the title and maybe 1500# wet) which makes the shortbed truck squat a few inches in the rear to where the overload springs are just touching the bumpers/stops. When truck is empty the overload springs rest 2" below the bumpers/stops. I was thinking of tack welding (TIG) a piece of 2" steel square tube to the ends of the springs so these springs start working immediately when the truck starts getting loaded. Any thoughts on welding the ends of the springs? One of the trucks has Pac-brake air bags and I'm only luke warm on installing another set of those things. If I screw them up I'll yank the overloads off the truck with air bags since they don't do anything anymore.

cd

 

I wouldn't weld anything to the springs for two reasons.
1. Because it will modify the temper of the spring, making it brittle and no longer a spring.
2. Even if #1 wasn't an issue, you would stiffen the rear and make the truck ride rougher when unloaded.

Why are you concerned about when the helper springs engage?
The design here is to have the helper springs engage when the weight on the regular springs gets heavy enough that it needs those helper springs to maintain ride height within design travel limits.

Chris

 

Better to put Timbrens or air bags on it. Air bags on mine and you can adjust for need.

 

As with the others, don't weld on springs, period.

The second thing, by removing all the free travel, you now effectively don't have overloads, you have stiff ( er ) springs.

 

I'll call that settled, thanks for the pebbles of wisdom.

 

The way to do it is to ad block type spacers to the strikers on the frame that allow earlier engagement of the overloads. There are commercially available products or you can fab your own.

 

Yes. The 2nd gen overloads don't engage until the rear squats down way low. A friend did his and made them removable for when the campers not on.

 

You may find Timbrens to be what you're after. Cheap and easy to install.