I was going to say that the second screw was accessible but after taking a look at mine.. Man it's tight. It wasn't that way before. The heater plenum does not locate in exactly one position, there is some give and take, (wiggle room) Last time I had it out I must have replaced it too low. If you were to loosen the nuts securing the heater plenum you should be able to block the plenum up enough to get the second screw.

I should add that with the key on if you turn from hot to cold you can see the motor turn. It doesn't move very far or fast.

 

I was able to pull the carpet back enough on the floorboard to pull the cover and motor and a bunch of gears out. Once all of that stuff was out, there was only one rod that sticks down out of the HVAC box that I could only rotate about 5 degrees with plyers. Which is why I think my blend door is jammed (assuming the rod is what moves the blend door)...

 

I have found pens, pencils, and crayons lodged in the blend door area, kids put them down the defroster. Sometimes the door passes over the item and some times it jambs it. Has your HVAC box been removed recently? If so the door could be installed incorrectly with the upper pivot point not being located in its hole. This causes the door to wobble, move a little then jamb.

 

my HVAC has not be removed, this just started recently, we had a bad ice storm one night... rained like hell then everthing froze up, i noticed that morning that when i had it on defrost i was getting snow blown on me, so thats why i'm thinkin blend door..i'm waiting for the part to come in from heatertreater then i'm gonna tear into this... i'll keep ya posted!!

 

I agree, I think some kid shoved a crown where it doesn't belong... I haven't removed the HVAC box, but I don't know if the previous owner ever did or not.

 

Well after a closer look i get heat on the windshield(defront) vents but not on the lower vents (floor), my temp guage doesnt go above 90*, heater core hoese are hot, rad hoses are hot but rad cap is ice cold what gives? Ive changed the thermostat & rap cap to start, i was gonna flush the heatercore but the hoses are hot. any ideas ?

 

sounds like broken shaft on blend door or malfunctioning vac actuator, I had exactly same problem. (actuator seemed good) turned out it was a broken blend door (the heater defrost one above the tranny hump & behind the airbag module you can kinda access it ) actually I was able to get ahold of it and put a screw in it to a metal rod, now I just set it at half get half defrost half heat. after flushing the heater core works great. after buying a heater case and a full day to install the screw on a shaft is tolerable! good luck!

 

thanks sounds about right, but how come the temp gauge doesnt go above 90* ?

 

You may not have enough coolant in the system..

 

checked it and its all topped up. Just changed thermostat too

 

If I am reading this right you are in TO with a Canadian truck with Metric Gauges, (Temp reads in Celcius) If this is the case (same as mine) then the 90 is in the middle of the gauge? celcius x2 + 30=farenheit (roughly). At 90 degrees Celcius you are running at 210 degrees farenheit when loaded on the hot end? sounds ok, mine only gets that hot with a tow or with a piece of cardboard when It's cold. actually now that I think about it the truck has been way more consistent on temp since I flushed the heater core.

 

update, got the part in from Heatertreater.com but have not had a change to work on it, had to drive it today, snowing like anything and cold, with my heater control set to the mid vents or the floor i have a huge amount of cold air comin in the defrost vents!!! Of course i was on the interstate today, so faster i go the colder it is...grrrr.. gonna try and get this piece changed out next weekend.. this sucks!!!

 

Ok not sure its my blend door... heres why.... when i turn my hearter control **** to cold i get cold air out, then when i turn it to hot i get luke warm air..depending on outside air temp! today its 38, and i have hot air, now what i noticed is that the same time i started not having heat i also picked up a "noise" from the pass. side like a bunch of change rattling around around 2200 rpm and up.. so had the GF start reving it up as i was under the hood...no noise then.. so i get in rev it up and theres the noise??? well i'm wondering now if its something to do with the hearter core? its on the pass. side and with the rpm's up that high theres alot of water moving..this problem started when i changed my thermostat... could i have an air locked heater core?? when its up to oper. temp both lines are hot, but that doesnt mean theres water flow through the heater core?? I've seen some post where ppl have flushed there cooling system.. what does this consist of? If anyone has done this please chime in..thanks

Capn

 

I posted this on another thread, but here is what I found, the OEM thermo stat has a "coolant By-pass" where some after market do not, I had a Stant thermo, engine gets to 190 but faster I go down the hi-way the less heat I get, with the re-circ door open there is a huge improvement... now that being said with the OEM stat, I have more heat and heat does not lessen when the fan is turned to its highest setting

here is the difference between the two different styles of thermostats

 

I had an aftermarket stat in and noticed my heat would go away fast, then i would look at the engine temp and it would be down to like 140, this is after its been at 200+ so went to the cummins shop and got a 3rd gen stat (190 vs 180 for a 2nd gen) but OEM. So i dont think its the stat.. really starting to think my heater core is full of air..just dont know how to purge it out??