2nd Gen. Dodge Ram - No Drivetrain Discussion for all Dodge Rams from 1994 through 2002. Please, no engine or drivetrain discussion.

Luke warm heat in the cab.

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Old Dec 7, 2005 | 10:58 AM
  #1  
67HotRod's Avatar
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From: Gretna, Louisiana
UPDATE: Luke warm heat in the cab.

Drove the truck over the weekend, no problem, plenty of heat in the cab. Don't even need to use the blower to keep warm. Haven't changed a thing, engine temp normal, but luke warm air coming out no matter what the blower speed. I'm thinking something under the dash is not right. I drove it for an hour down the interstate this morning and no change. I tried all the HVAC settings, notta. Suggestions?

Thanks!
67HotRod
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Old Dec 7, 2005 | 12:16 PM
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From: Montana
Check that the temp control **** isn't broken in the back. It's very common for them to crack and feel like they are actually turning the control shaft when in fact it's just spinning on it.
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Old Dec 8, 2005 | 07:32 AM
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From: Gretna, Louisiana
Thanks infidel, I'll check that ****. I had to pull the relay for the AC, which was coming on. Didn't have much time to work on the it, trans line cracked on the way to work yetserday and had to fix it. When it rains it pours.
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Old Dec 8, 2005 | 09:45 AM
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Yes, it's unfortunate that the A/C comes on in most heater positions on a '01. This easy to do mod allows you to turn off the A/C with a flip of a switch, then you have the option of flipping it back on for defrost.
http://dodgeram.org/tech/repair/HVAC/Defrost_AC.htm
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Old Dec 8, 2005 | 12:53 PM
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From: Gretna, Louisiana
The HVAC system in this truck leaves allot to be desired.
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Old Dec 8, 2005 | 01:17 PM
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From: east central IL
Originally Posted by 67HotRod
Thanks infidel, I'll check that ****. I had to pull the relay for the AC, which was coming on. Didn't have much time to work on the it, trans line cracked on the way to work yetserday and had to fix it. When it rains it pours.

FWIW, my trans line (hose to/from front cooler) split on
Thanksgiving day. At the time I just cut the end off and
stuck the hose back on. Last Sunday it, or the other one,
split.

Spent 15 minutes in sub 0 chill laying out in some
parking lot replacing both. Then waited 2 hours for the
AAA service to come jump the batteries.

Bottom line, if one of them splits, take it as an opportunity
to replace both of them. Doesn't look like the tranny likes
running out of fluid. Twice.

Lowell
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Old Dec 8, 2005 | 03:46 PM
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From: Corpus Christi, Tx.
Weak vacuum will cause crappy damper motor function... This spring, I found a leaking rubber elbow right off the vacuum pump inlet nozzle that had a hole rotted underneath, out of sight, that was REALLY sucking in large amounts of air. While the motor was running, I found it by touch since the top side looked perfectly intact.
I replaced the crummy, gummy elbow and I was amazed how much better and quicker the damper motors functioned.

K.
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Old Dec 8, 2005 | 07:46 PM
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Doesn't change from H to C ?? I'm betting the air door adapter has broken. You'll need to drop the electronic door actuator and see if it is in one piece......I'm betting not.
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Old Dec 9, 2005 | 08:04 AM
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From: Gretna, Louisiana
Well, I went through all the vent and hot/cold options. With the AC relay pulled, I get normal heat, only on MAX AC in the hot position. The rest of the positions get me luke warm air. I think J BODY is on to something, first dodge, so I am not fimilar with the HVAC. Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks!
67Hotod
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Old Dec 9, 2005 | 03:08 PM
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From: Gretna, Louisiana
I guess I will have to pull the dash and take a look see.
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Old Dec 9, 2005 | 08:27 PM
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WHOA!! STOP THE PRESSES!! Don't pull the dash. The actuator is under the dash on the passenger side, kind of toward the center. Black little box with a three wire connector running to it held on with two brass philips head screws. Roll back the carpet, now the fun part!!...cut, hack, peel, the under carpet insulation, whatever it takes to access the rear screw. I have a small 1/4 in wrench that I use with a philips head bit taped in the box end to get to it. I don't totally remove the rear screw, but get it nearly out, remove the front one and this will allow you to "bend" the actuator down enough to remove the adapter for inspection, or the pieces fall out if broken. If you're not "comfortable" with trying to bend the actuator down, remove the rear screw. It's just hard to get it started when completely removed. Good Luck!
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