Hey guys, I am trading my 04RAM1500 in for a New CRV for the wife. And going to buy an older used truck. I loved my Diesel and want to get back into one. Aside from the 250K mile potential. I have over loaded my 1/2 ton too many times, and want the ability to do it with out killing it. I was looking at a 3rd gen. But After going over it with money, and hearing about the 2nd GEN. I like the 2nd gen better. I want the extended cab, not that full quad cab that they offer now. I want a manual, 4x4 with the long bed. I also noticed that the 24V 2nd Gen are much easier to Mod, less computer controlled, and have an easier time running on alt fuels. So I think I found what I am looking for. I am starting my search for a 98-02 Ram 2500/3500 5.9 Manual. But i have found a lot that have 90K on the clock but are $19,000!!! Found a few that are $12k-$14K but have 145K-160K on the clock. Now I've seen these go for 300K and then some. But when is too much? Just looking for opinions, so i can narrow y search and get back into a truck and out of her Old CRV....
thanks in advance guys!!

 

Someone told you wrong, about modding the 24v. Yes, they are fairly easy to mod, but the CR engines are easier, and have more potential. If you want to go backwards, you should go back to the 12v, 94-98.0. These are the most reliable Cummins you'll ever see, and are cheaper to mod because there are no electronics. They get better fuel mileage too.
That said, I have no problem with my 99, 24v. It's a great engine, but has a couple of weak areas, the lift pump and the VP44. If you go this direction you'll want to test the fuel pressure on any potential 24v you might buy. If the fuel pressure is low, you will have to think about the fact that you have no idea how long it has been low, and how much damage that has done to the VP44.
As far as mileage is concerned, I don't bat an eye at mileage on one of these engines until it is over 400K, since rebuild time, as recommended by Cummins, is 500K. If the truck has seen a diet of synthetic oil 500K might be a low number for a rebuild.
You'll really be looking at the shape of the truck body and other drive train parts, rather than worrying about the engine.

Chris

 

Thanks, what is a good fuel pressure for the 24V? And How would I be able to check it? The reason I am looking to go backwards, is my current payment is very high ( bought it when i was single) Wife needs a car, and kids arent far off. So I want to get a used truck for a good price that will go for a long time. I have seen some mid mile 24V one that he has been using synthetic from the get go. The 12V ones that I have seen have A LOT OF MILES like 250K and up, and Not sure if I want to go buy a 15 year old truck. I am looking to get into something that I can drive for a long time.. any other pointers?

 

also what is the VP44? and how hard is it to replace. I found a few 12V's in the area. Most have a lot of miles, and inside are pretty beat up. What about power potential with the 12V's. I am no speed demon but i have memories of driving Old diesels in the miliatry that had nothing after 50-60MPH...I just have to figure out what to get so I can start looking around

 

dont forget these few things:
1. diesels are not like gas engines.. high mileage wont hurt a diesel.. a 100K is a joke to them you will find on this forum plenty of people who have over 200k on their modified trucks using them as daily drivers, towing trailers and etc.
2 the contest between the 24v and the 12v comes down between, reliabilty, how easily and cheaply you can build hp and the 12v will win. with the 24v you unless you plan on keeping it stock you run the risk of killing the injection pump(VP44) and killing the lift pump replacing even the VP44 is around a grand. Dont forget that when your looking at a 24v you have to make sure that its not a 53 block. if it is a 53 then you have a good chance of the block cracking if it hasnt already.
3 If you look at a 12v youll see theres no electronics, the best injection pump for building cheap(sometimes even free), massive amounts of hp w/o worring about whether or not its going to be reliable or bad gas mileage, not as much of a issue of a 53 block cracking(never heard one case of it happening so far),

 

VP is the injector pump, Bosch electronic high tech and finnicky as all get out.
It cost me 3 grand when my lift pump went and all of a sudden I couldn't get above idle.
I've heard that 4 psi TO the VP at wide open is acceptable but more is better. The only way to test is to put a gauge on it. The 99 I have has a before and after filter tap on the top of the fuel filter housing. I have my guage to the front port (after filter) but I'm working on developing a differential guage to give total pres and health of the filter by measuring drop across.
My 99 also has guts right up to about 80 then it starts to flatten out but at the same time milage starts to drop DRASTICALLY. 55mph highway is about 25+mpg, if I average 70 it goes to 19 and I did an hour of between 80 and 85 one night on I95 and burned about 8 gallons.

I love my truck and I'm going to see who outlives who in this relationship. I figure on getting at least 500k miles

 

The 53 block has had problems but it's not universal and if you don't chip it to death odds are in your favor that you will never have to worry. (mine's a 53)
Also if you are proactive on your maintenance you should have no problems with a VP. If your really concerned about the pump you can get one of the bullet proof rebuilds and put it in. Best thing to do is get a fuel pressure gauge and get it first thing.
If your looking for a DD that will earn it's keep but not run a carting business the 2nd gen is a good bet. The only real problem that wasn't my own fault that I've had is the darn dashboard self destructing

 

Oh yeah, if you are going to stick with the 24v, get a 2000-2002, for the better front brakes. If you want rear disk, get 2001.5 or 2002.
On the fuel pressure, anything less than 7 psi at WOT and your lift pump is considered bad.
On the 53, my experience is the torque is what cracks it, and a Cummins mechanic agrees with me. If you are drag racing, don't worry about it. If you are towing heavy, worry about it. My 99 HAD a 53 block. Drag racing never hurt it. I pulled my tractor over the biggest mountain in the area, Afton, and suddenly I had a crack. Wouldn't go through that again.

Chris

 

Well it sounds like a 12V is a better deal. I am looking for something that is reliable and long lasting. If i got the 24V The only Mods i would do were intake and exhaust. And when I do occasionally tow its under the 10K lbs. So A 24V might work just fine for me. I have to figure out how to check that fuel pressure though, get a gauge. Is it something i can easilly hook up on a truck in a lot to check.

What kind of Power can you bilud with the 12V? Why does it get metter Milage?

 

I've heard of many 12 valves in excess of 800hp on straight #2. You can easily get 250hp for free but should have gauges or free could turn into an expensive repair.


The 12 valve's better mileage is to due it's fixed timing, the 24 has variable electronic timing for emissions purposes. If you advance the 12 valve's timing a few degrees above stock you even gain a few more mpgs.
Fuel pressure gauge is no big deal and inexpensive but you still have the VP injection pump which Cummins themselves has said they felt it was an inferior pump and wished they hadn't of used it.

 

I like the 12v, but like you said its hard to find a decent one. Most at least around me were high mileage and not well taken care of. Thats why I bought a 24v. They seemed to be in alot nicer shape and lower miles. If you end up getting a 24v look into an 01.5 or 02 truck, they come with disc brakes front and rear, previous yrs had front disc and drum rear. My 02 has been a good truck too,it has plenty of power in stock form but I got the horsepower bug so I put on the exhaust, gauges, and the Quadzilla XZT. My original VP44 went out at 85k, i have 137k now, i've had other things go wrong but it's all been item that wear out over time like u-joints, hubs, ball joints, and brakes.

 

I think the problem with a 12V now is rust and general body problems. Nice truck, but even my 2001.5 is showing signs of age. I personally would look at a 2001.5-2002 with under 200K miles. I'd check the fuel pressure at the VP and accept no less than 8-10psi with a stock LP. I personally wouldn't buy a truck with any mods other than intake, exhaust, and a 70-100HP chip. When you get a used truck with a lot of mods (high HP and Torque) you may be looking at transmission and possible engine problems. Check the repair records and ask about the oil used and frequency of changes (7500 miles between changes is standard). Pull the codes with the key on-off-on-off-on trick although a dealer will have erased them, probably. My truck blue books for about $12,000 and I wouldn't trade it for a new truck at all. Cummins RATES the engine for 400,000 miles. That means they EXPECT EVERY engine to go that far without a rebuild. Plus it's loud so people get out of your way.
Good luck and happy hunting....

 

I have found a few good 12V. But like you said the body is rusted in spots. I found one with 103K on the clock but from Upstate NY so it has a lot of years of salty roads under it. I mean I guess I could go with something like that for a good deal, then just spend a weekend underneath with a can of POR15 and a grinder. The thing is I am trying to get a truck with out financing. that way we don't have a payment. I mean if i have to I have to but Id rather just buy something out right. I think the 12v would be perferct for me. good MPG. Easy to MOD, to hell and back reliability. and the interior can be cleaned and made like new pretty cheap. So i think now I am looking for a really good shape 12V or a 24V that already had its lifter and fuel pumps replaced....

The 12V still has the VP44 issue?

 

NO NO NO The 12V do not have that junk. Thay have the p7100

 

Too much?:Rust?confused: This was at600k.