well my fuel guage took a dump last year just before christmas and after running out 4 times, and taking the bed off twice to replace a sending that was never bad i had to do something. first off, i ordered a sending unit from the dealer using a part number i researched on here...apparently some time in 02 they switched to a slightly different sender, and i wasted that money and had to go buy the right one from another dealer.

after getting the right one, and seeing that it wasn't going to work, i tried tracing wires to the cab but that didnt work and i gave up very quickly. I figured i was going to have an empty spot in the pillar for a gauge so i ordered an autometer fuel level gauge. since i had a good working sending unit i got the ohm-meter out and tested the stocker sender to see what the range was, and then ordered a guage according to that. the correct range was ~240ohms-33ohms

the stock sender only has 2 wires connected...the ground and signal wire. i utilized the original ground, and used a tap connector to tap into the signal wire and ran that to my gauge pod. at the gauge i hooked up the 12v ignition wire, and a ground, then the lights and now i have a working autometer fuel level gauge utilizing the stock sending unit that is very close to accurate. the only time its is inaccurate is during quick take-offs or stops when fuel is moved greatly in the tank as this gives an instant reading, there is no computer to delay the reading and take out the fluctuations of the fuel moving.

its jsut nice to know i can go for a long trip now without filling up every 300 miles to be sure i always hae enough fuel in the truck.

 

Yeah, that would drive me crazy not knowing.

 

I've always wondered about going that route.
Is that what's called a 300 ohm gauge?

 

The one i bought specifically is made for a 240ohms empty-33ohms full reading

 

Yes, its a PITA without a gauge. I dropped my tank to find one wire was disconnected, it was an easy fix.