As the title says. I am fighting a water leak in my floor. Thr carpet is pulled due to being soaked and it is definatly coming from under the AC box. I can see it running from under the foam pad. I stuck a long screw driver through the vent and felt no resistance. I also installed a breather tube that runs down to the axle. The only thing I can think is that it is partially plugged up in the box. Any help is appreciated.

 

10 hours and 46 views with no takers.
So far I have pulled the heater fan ( a few months ago) and cleaned out as much as I could on that side and I also cleaned out the cowl. Am I missing anything? I really would like to get this fixed so I can put my interior back in the truck. It takes way to much space out of the living room.

 

Have you tried sticking a piece of wire in the drain that goes through the firewall? More than likely, that is where it is plugged.

 

Thanks I Pass Gas
I tried running a long medium size screwdriver through the drain. It went in several inches nice and easy. After that I installed the missing vent tube. I am getting plenty of water flow out of the drain but still after a couple minutes there is a trail running down the floor board. On a side note the AC is working much better the last two days?? Any other ideas?

 

Where is the drain that goes through the firewall loacted?

 

Find the black AC canister on the passenger side firewall. I cant remember the things name but they are usually natural alum on other vehicles. Reach down below it and you will feel a little plastic nub or a small piece of drain hose. The nub only protrudes about an 1" so it is hidden pretty well by the firewall mating. Typically the hose falls off or plugs up and the water will end up running back down the nub and end up in your floor board.

 

Blast some compressed air thru the drain. I know it does not remove the debris, but, it will allow it to drain.

If you had an overflow of water from a plugged of drain, even if the drain is clear, you may still have some residual water in the ductwork, but, this should go away after a day. KD

 

Thanks for the help. Finally figured this one out. The foam seal that chrysler uses to seal the box to the firewall on the inside had broken down and was acting like a sponge. Whenever water condenced and dripped down from the dryer it would land on top of the AC drain and get soaked up by the foam. Once on the foam it wicked into the floor board. 2 hours with the silicone caulk finally got this problem licked. If I ever need to do this again I am pulling the turbo so that I can get the caulking gun in there rather than gobbing it on my finger and trying to seal around the bulk head fitting totally blind. A couple days of running the AC has left me with a dry floor board. Now I just need to get a little free time to reinstall the interior.

 

Either your drain hose is loose-fitting, or the evap housing is cracked - once the drain hose seals the evap drain tube, should be no more problem, even if the rubber seal-ring is missing.

That ring mainly prevents engine-bay stuff from entering the cab thru that opening in the firewall - odors, fumes, durt (dust and dirt), road-water splash, etc.

 

I agree with ya GMCTD but not in this case. I never would have thought this was the problem either. This has been an ongoing battle for several months that I know off and the floor board was musty on the passenger side when I bought the truck. I would say this is only a fix if everything else doesnt work.
I replaced the drain hose with that clear stuff from a plumbing supply store. I had to stretch it out to make it fit. Then I added a radiator clamp for good measures. Problem still there. After that I double checked for an noticable cracks and couldnt find any what so ever on the out side. Inside I could visually see it and it had a good bill of health. Still leaked. After that I felt around once again after not running the AC or defroster for 3 days and the gasket material was wet and spongy. I dried it out and added silicone sealer all the way around the drain fitting and let it cure for 24 hours. Reinstalled the drain hose and I have had a perfectly dry floor board now for a week I can finally put my carpet back in the truck once these afternoon rainstorms quit.

 

Here's hoping that does it for ya - removed the blower motor on mine, fished out all the leaves and such, then hosed the mulch and stuff out with the squirt gun set to stream.

The garden hose was connected to the drain spigot at the water heater in the garage.

Some back-washed out the blower opening, some flushed out the drain - didn't stop till it ran clear - clearer it got, the less back-washed out the blower opening, the more poured out the drain.

Made sure all the evap fins were clear of detritus b4 sealing it back up - stretched a GM radiator drain hose about an inch onto the drain tube.

'Course, I did this with the carpet\padding removed, much as you probably got, now.

Mine's been dry for a year, now - but it seems as tho it will require periodic maintenance if usually parked under trees 'n stuff.

 

You can also use just plain old rope caulk, (butyl tape) or any other type of putty style caulk. It does not get hard, stays soft like silly putty. That way it's not such a pain to remove (like silicone-it was invented by the devil himself!)

Makes it easy to just pack some around the drain area from the engine compartment. KD

 

I hate to chime in unnecessarily but maybe can be of some use. I just bought my 97 with 235K miles. the a/c was ice cold but the blower motor sounded terrible. After talking with after market diesel shop and a a/c shop they both told me I had to pull the dash and clean the condensor, no other way to do it.

Well I hate to be told I can t do it so I pulled the blower motor and scooped out as much dirt as I could from the condensor and then set my garden hose nozzle on stun and ran it into the condensor for 20 -30 minutes. Ar first the water was very dirty and 30 mins later almost clean. I cleaned the fan blades and reinstalled the blower motor. A/c worked great. Now the high speed setting is just that!

hope that helps

lewis

 

Looks like this thread made a come back. Heres the update. No water in the cab for the last couple of weeks! Caulking around the overflow solved the problem. I have the carpet back in now and WOW I forgot how much quiter it is. I repaired my healiner last night so it can go back in when I get a chance. It will be nice having a complete truck again. Oddly enough I got offered 14k for the truck last week. I wonder if the money comes through as I found another 95 extended cab for $4500! Talking about a profit.

 

Interesting... VERY interesting..

Any "Been there, done that" hints, things you'd do/not do next time?